LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Ok, On my way to work this morning I have to cross a 2 lane freeway where traffic is always doing 60mph or more (south bound). Once in the middle of the road, I have to merge from the left side in to the North bound lanes.

It is raining but knowing the AWD TBSS pretty much always hooks, I gave it about 50% throttle pulling away from the stop sign as there are cars coming. Got about 3-5 feet out and felt a snap. Barely had enough momentum to roll in to the merge lane. Cars in both south bound lanes with multiple cars behind them. I thought I was going to get hit and cause a pile up.

Truck has no forward gears and no reverse. No codes popped so I am guessing it is a hard part. When in gear, you can tell something is turning, almost sound like it did when the pump blew in my glide. Rotaional noise, slight grinding like. Take it out of gear and it is still making this noise until you put it in park. Then you can here it trying to lock in to park (clicking) until it finally slows down enough to get in to park.

Planing on pulling the trans out myself. I can either take it to a friend of a friend who is the GM trans tech to be fixed or put an 80E in it. If it is the pump, I'll fix it, if it is a lot more, well, not too sure.


So my question is, if I choose to do the 80E what all is required?



I have HP tuners, not sure if they have the ability to do a segmant swap or not. I believe the GMC Denali Quad steer is an AWD 4L80E and I have a file for one since my dad owned one.

I figure a crossmember alteration is in order.

Repin the connector (re-pinned my F-body harness for the 80E that was once in my 63 C10, did a segmant sap on it previously)

TH400/80E yoke (which I have from my 63 C10 since it now has a glide)

80E Flex plate and spacer (I have from my 63 C10)

Converter

Alteration to the D-shaft?

What about mating the TBSS AWD to the 4L80E?


What else is there to think about?


Thanks in advance.

geareater

iTrader: (2)

There's a good sticky that is essentially the z71 swap thread, but applies to all 4x4. You have to change the input shaft on the transfer case to 32 spline as well, theres also another write up on that in the sticky's of this forum section. You definitely have to shorten the drive shaft.

It kinda sounds like you destroyed your transfer case. I'd look into that before diving into the 80e swap.

Last Call

iTrader: (4)

The 80E is longer, so you will probably have to lengthen front shaft and shorten rear. I don't think the sticky applies to the AWD case because you need a special input shaft.

geareater

iTrader: (2)

Thats the only thing that is different, the 80e swap sticky will still apply, and you would change the input shaft in the transfer case the same, the input shaft is just a different part number and has small differences. The way I understand it in some circumstances you can keep the front DS, the rear has to be shortened, but it may be that you have to get a longer front shaft as well.

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

Wonder what broke in the 60e? did you crank up the line pressures with the hp tuner?

If you losat all gears I bet it was the input housing cracked...They make a fix for this, sonnax sleeve kit...but hell yeah the 80e is beastly!!

LIL SS

iTrader: (9)

Stock line pressure, stock tq mgmt settings. Only mods are e-fans, k&n filter, part throttle shift points got adjusted (short shifts for mileage). My wife used to daily drive it till we bought her a more economical dd. Now she only drive is when it rains since she works graveyard and it just sits a little better with me.

The sound it makes is very similar to a manual trans that pops out of gear and goes jjrrrrrrrrrrr..

Before I go the swap route I am going to pull it out and have my buddies buddy open it up and look. I don't use it to race, just to tow my race truck to the track. So do I "need" an 80e, no, but if I need to rebuild this one, I can probably find a low mileage 80e do the swap for the similar cost (I think). I never broke a stock 80e in my 63 going mid 11's on motor and 10.7x on bottle. Sure there is a difference in weight between the two trucks, but the toss does not make the same power and does get the snot beat out of it

Last Call

iTrader: (4)

I was talking about the adaptor which you do need. A few members have made them and they go for a few hundred dollars.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

You definitely broke something like a shaft or sun gear. It depends on how bad it is, but its probably fatal.

Is the TBSS AWD an NVG149 like the SS trucks??? If so you have to get the input gear re splined. You also need the 4x4 4L80E and use the 4L80E transfer case adapter to mate up the case. Part number on the case adapter is 15724745. Sometimes if you can find a 4x4 4L80E the adapter is till on it.

Other wise the whole case has to come apart to change the tail shaft and modify the lube circuit in the back of a the case.

Yes the basics of the Kysilverado's thread do apply. Here are some helpful stickies to see whats involved with everything. I am sure the TBSS boards have something similar so you can see What all is involved on a TBSS.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...-4l80e-424904/

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...g-swap-413157/

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...ite-up-368971/

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

What year is it? The PCM is a pain in the TBSS when it comes to the 80e. Also, the AWD transfer case was never used in combo with a 80e.

silverz28camaro

iTrader: (20)

I'm thinking this might have broke( input drum)...lose all gears and the splines stripping make a slight grinding sound, or the reaction hub that splines into the rear planetary in the bottom of the case could have cracked and create this same grinding noise with no movement...