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TCI Converter Question

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Old 02-01-2005, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by lotzafun
My cam is Comp Cam's 212/218 522/529 114LSA part #54-412-11. It is in a 2002 ECSB 2wd GMC Sierra with a 5.3L V8. Was quoted $375 for the install of the converter, but because they had to basically do the job twice, because of the 1st converter that was bad, I paid a little more than what was quoted. It was not their fault the converter would not install all the way. Glad that I kept the 3.42 gears in the rear end. With this converter it drives out very good, I have another truck that I can tow with, if I need to tow something.

If you have never driven a high stall performance converter before, I suggest you either ride or drive with a vehicle that has one. That way you know what to expect. I was pleasantly surprised by mine, so all ended up well. To say that it makes the cam come alive is an understatement. Nothing but grins here. Unless you have to tow something, save your money and get the TCI 3000 stall converter.

Kool huh!!! Good cam too.
Old 02-01-2005, 09:39 PM
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I guess i did get a good deal then.. 250 to install my converter plus change my fluid and filter.. i have to pay for the fluid and filter though.. but no biggie..
Old 02-02-2005, 03:00 AM
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Just a little side note, when they put the converter in, they will have to redrill one of the holes in the flywheel where the torque converter bolts up to it.

Cool is an understatement! This weekend I will be installing an Autometer Trans Temp Gauge in the overhead console. Will be fabricating my own mounting bezel out of red oak. Will take some pictures of the install of the gauge as I go if anyone wants to see how it turns out.

My step son did not believe me when I told him how easy that the truck will roast the tires now, the expression on his face was choice as he remembers how difficult it would be to do that before the install of the converter.
Old 02-03-2005, 09:20 PM
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glad you like the converter. the connectors are not glued into the tranny by GM. theres glue in the PRNDL switch to hold the circuit boards inside. the tranny gets so hot that the glue melts and gets all in the connectors. a heat gun works getting them out and also getting them back in after.
Old 02-03-2005, 10:34 PM
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glad you like the stall it will take about 500 miles to tighten up, I have the stock tranny cooler from the tow package and it seems to be sufficent for cooling it will get as high as 190 in hotter weather and thats if you are really beating on it burnouts wot around town etc. normal driving I get temp around 140 to 160 when its fully warmed up under normal city driving. I have a suspicion I might need to go with a larger cooler when the temp outside gets into the 90's but we'll see then.


just a side note about the tranny temp cluster, the sending unit is there all you need do is buy an escalade or denali cluster and its a plug and play deal very easy

anyone know what tranny temp are detrimental to the 60e?
where does the stock sender pull the temp from?
Old 02-05-2005, 06:32 AM
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Here is some more info that may be benificial to you all. After driving my truck for 4 days and loving it, two things were happening, and needed to be addressed. First off when the converter would go into lockup, which was not all the time, there would be a funny noise that sounded like you just ran over some rumble strips in the road. Then it would not stay in lock up, it would kick out on its own. Every time I would have a little fun with the truck it would trip the SES light.

Found some very good info here on this website about why the converter would not stay in lock up and why the light was coming on. See section above on PCM modification. Used my HP Tuners to make the changes needed to keep the converter in lock up and now it locks up everytime just like it is suppose to, with one problem still there, it makes that strange noise like going over rumble strips in the road when it goes into lock up. So back to the transmission shop to pick their brain.

After discribing the noise and discussing the symptom to the owner of the shop, it was determined that what I was getting is what is called clutch shudder when the lock up clutch comes on. This is what we tryed and it worked and maybe it will help others. He said that he has a new product that he was told works very well, but had not had the opportunity to use it yet, that he had just got some in. Kind of a quirky name on the bottle, it is called "Instant Shudder Fixx", he told me to give it a try and let him know how it does.

Let me tell you that I was impressed, after pouring this 2 ounce bottle of addative in, then cleaning up the funnel I used, it was time for a test drive. Drove about a quarter of a mile at 30 mph to where I could get the truck up to speed and see if it would cure the shudder. It went into lock up with no noise, smooth as can be. Thought to myself, this is too good to be true. So I came to a stop and went for another blast making sure that it would go into lock up. Not only did it go into lock up several times that I tryed, it never made another noise when it went into lock up, no matter how many times I tryed.

For those of you that want more info, this product is made by International Lubricants, INC., and they say that it mixes with conventional and synthetic ATF. Even says made in the U.S.A. on the bottle. So now the truck is enjoyable to drive, no more shudder, and no more SES light coming on everytime you get on it. Hope this helps someone else with the same problem.
Old 02-05-2005, 02:08 PM
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Thanks for the write up man! I am getting that same shutter from mine as i posted it in the performance section and get no real answers.. If i get this bottle of stuff where do i need to pour it? I hope it fixes my shutter as well and i need to have allen retune to make it lockup right.. once again thanks for the help.. that saves me a lot of time.. and money
Old 02-05-2005, 06:26 PM
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Definately get a bottle of this stuff, it is the fix, just pour it right in the fill tube just like you would the fluid. It is amazing stuff. Took my truck out today and had some fun with it, and the shudder is still gone, it locked up everytime without any problems. If you can't find this stuff let me know and I will put you in touch with the tranny shop I used, and they can sell you some.
Old 02-05-2005, 09:00 PM
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http://www.autobarn.net/inshudfixbyd.html

Is that what you used?
Old 02-05-2005, 09:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 02sierraz71_5.3
glad you like the stall it will take about 500 miles to tighten up, I have the stock tranny cooler from the tow package and it seems to be sufficent for cooling it will get as high as 190 in hotter weather and thats if you are really beating on it burnouts wot around town etc. normal driving I get temp around 140 to 160 when its fully warmed up under normal city driving. I have a suspicion I might need to go with a larger cooler when the temp outside gets into the 90's but we'll see then.


just a side note about the tranny temp cluster, the sending unit is there all you need do is buy an escalade or denali cluster and its a plug and play deal very easy

anyone know what tranny temp are detrimental to the 60e?
where does the stock sender pull the temp from?
How hot does it get around where you live. I live in Arizona and it gets 100+ in the summers all the time. I was wondering if my tranny cooler would hold up to the heat.


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