Technically I'm asking about suspension tech not how to do the swap.

 

Do you think the unibody of the civic can handle the tq of a RWD setup in it where the links of the suspension are going to connect?

 

well, i'm going to look at it when i get home. but, i think i can reinforce it with out having to cut out the entire rear of the car. where the sway bar would connect to the body will have to be improved because people rip those out as is. i don't mind redoing what needs to be done. i just don't want to go over bored for no reason. trying to stay light as possible. but syet strong enough to not destroy itself. the frame portion of the unibody is where the trailing arm attaches now. its hard to explain, but but from front to back there it looks like a made in frame rail. its where the bumpers slide into for mounting, but runs from front to back. its about 3-4"s wide and extends below the body sheet metal and up into the car. this is where i was thinking of running square tubing inside for a more frame type set up. kinda like sub frame connectors on a camaro.

 

here is another way to do it i guess. this is for a miata but same rails i was talking about on my car.

 

I know a 240 is not the same car but my buddy backhalf and put a soild axel with a 4 link in his.

 

i think i'm going to do a torque arm and borrow the maita idea for bracing and use a ford 8.8"

 

In all honest your gonna have to cut the car up to make it hook up. Same thing for shoe horning the motor and trans in there... you would be better off starting with a car that's already rear will drive...

How fast you want to go safely will dictate the type of parts you will need.

 

Start doing some research on other forums. I know you didn't plan on cutting the car up but look at this write up I did a few years ago. Before you make the civic completely useless. just read up on different suspension set ups on different cars . There are plenty of cars like camaros and mustangs with mini tubs that are going 8's and are still driven on the streets.

"How to" information on Installing a rear 4 link frame Clip for beginner's...

The Turbo Forums and Yellow Bullet are great sites to read up and learn from. Some of the guys can be harsh but there are lots of good things, you just have to read past some of the crap. And yes they have junk yard builds on there too... Some good but alot that are really poorly executed...

 

i know i will have to cut the car. i just don't want to go hacking blindly. i don't want to cut any more than what is nessesary. i'm not going to just go hacking and throwing parts together. i understand its going to be a job. thats the whole point in it being a project. sure i could go buy a rear wheel drive car and do all this but then i would have just another car. this car has a lot of sentimental value to me and my family so its not going anywhere.

i still have to take some measurements and what not but i'm looking at using a mustang aftermarket k member up front. if it will work, then i will be able to have easy to get parts as far as hubs and brakes and what not and have the same bolt pattern front and rear for rims. the track width of the mustang and my car is very close to the same. my car itself is actually a touch wider. this is comparing to a 90's model mustang. the company that makes the after market K member also make adapter plates for the ls motors to be bolted to it. i really like the torque arm idea so far. it seems to be a little easier to set up.

 

This sort of thing certainly isn't my area of expertise, but I didn't see anyone mention the panhard bar you will need to keep the diff centered with this type of suspension. Just thought I'd mention it.