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Time to crack open my 4l60

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Old 02-12-2008, 09:39 PM
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If by cracking it open you mean rebuilding, do yourself a favor and replace the stock junk shell for a "Beast" unit. That'll be the best $55 you can put into it, the stock ones cracking have to be the #2 cause of 4L60-E failures.
Old 02-12-2008, 11:00 PM
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I am confused... are you rebuilding the trans or just installing the transgo and servos in a used trans? If you are just throwing in the shiftkit/servos, I should be pretty easy with the trans out. Don't have to worry about fluid dripping all over you while doing it on jackstands in the driveway.
Old 02-13-2008, 08:10 AM
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I'm not rebuilding this trans, just installing a shift kit, servos, and swapping the case extension.
Old 02-13-2008, 10:14 AM
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I don't think that you can just switch the tailshaft housing and put an F-Body tranny in a truck. You need the truck output shaft - a major job. Or a custom driveshaft and a new tranny mount. Good luck with it!!
Old 02-13-2008, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by shakinlm7
The trans is out of an F-Body with 23k
You may want to search for a thread about one of my trans swaps. I have a pic showing external differences b/t F-body transmissions from truck transmissions. A few things to check for would be the input shaft. Notice in the pic below that the shafts are NOT the same.




It may seem like a "no brainer", but check the bellhousing too. They won't bolt up to the 4.8/5.3/6.0 motors... been there, tried that, realized something I didn't know. Check the pump too. You'll want to make sure it's compatible with that of your truck pump. While you're at it, open it up and make sure it's a 13-vane pump. Not all PWM pumps are 13-vane. Just be extra careful about putting the pump back together. If it's not PERFECTLY aligned, it won't slide right back in the case. Don't force it by tightening the pump bolts b/c you'll strip or rip the case bolt hole right out.
Old 02-13-2008, 10:27 PM
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Hmmmm.... Thanks 1bad. I have read about the input shafts before. Actually You posted that same picture when I had a thread asking how hard it would be to rebuild a lt1 f-body trans to work in an ls1 truck. In your pictures the trans on the left is a lt1 and the right is an ls1 right?

The trans I have has the same input shaft as the right trans in your pic.

I'm pretty sure the output shaft shouldn't be a problem. I took a rough measurment and both tail shafts are the same length. Than I took the drive shaft out of my truck and it slid onto the tail shaft of the f-body trans.

I'll have put that search button to work because I'm not sure about the pump....

Last edited by shakinlm7; 02-14-2008 at 08:07 AM. Reason: I'm a dumb ass :)
Old 02-13-2008, 11:33 PM
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If the trans you have has an input shaft like the one on the left then it's for a Gen-I/II engine, not a Gen-III/IV. Get rid of it and get another one. Don't even bother to waste your time. By the time you're finished replacing all the necessary parts to make it compatible you'll have spent more than just getting the proper trans in the first place and it will be missing several years worth of design improvements. GET RID OF IT
Old 02-14-2008, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by James B.
If the trans you have has an input shaft like the one on the left then it's for a Gen-I/II engine, not a Gen-III/IV. Get rid of it and get another one. Don't even bother to waste your time. By the time you're finished replacing all the necessary parts to make it compatible you'll have spent more than just getting the proper trans in the first place and it will be missing several years worth of design improvements. GET RID OF IT
I'm an advocate for DIY'n... If he's going to buy new parts, of course, I'd be one of the first to suggest a yankee sponsor who knows his shyt! That recommendation has been made to me on a few occasions. Yet, I still went away from that route.

shakinlm7... take a pic of the casting on the pump. Will be able to tell you if it'll work for ya or not. The input shaft/drum can be swapped for sure. Clutches & steels are the same. Just swap the bellhousing over, and you're good to go. WITH THAT SAID... there's a list of parts I would recommend you replace, should you decide to proceed forth. James has mentioned the more cost-effective route that'll cost you a few Benjamins more, but is WELL WORTH the dinero. With the time & effort you'll spend to "get it right" to be able to withstand the punishment of a MILDLY mod'd motor, a certain level 3 trans will suit you nicely. But, you can get by on servos, shift kit, and new band (as long as rev drum isn't warped). If you're going to really overhaul it, get an overhaul kit & do it right (this is where your time becomes valuable).

*edit*

Just went back and looked at your first post... let me retract my statement above regarding a level 3 trans... save the money, and get something that'll last under your soon-to-be turbo'd motor. you'll be glad you did. if you were only staying NA, I'd support rebuilding yourself. under FI, contact Vince @ FLT.
Old 02-14-2008, 08:14 AM
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I guess I forgot the difference between my right and left last night lol! I went up and edited it already but the trans I have has the same input shaft as the right trans in your picture. I'll get a pictures posted up here shortly
Old 02-14-2008, 09:38 AM
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The pics are pretty big so here's a link to them.


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