Tire balance or Drive line angle?
09-16-2007, 11:47 AM
#1
Tire balance or Drive line angle?
My truck has some serious vibrations, but only between around 25-30mph and up to 55mph or so. It seems to be more severe when I'm coasting and less severe when under moderate acceleration. Cruising it's noticably severe but not as bad as decel.
I realized that I set up the axle for a 1 piece DS (so the 1* wedge facing the opposite direction from what the instructions say for a 2 piece DS) and I did not install the carrier bearing spacer thing as I built a custom mount for the carrier bearing anyway.
Here's the catch, the tires were supposedly balanced when mounted in FL, but when they did the rims and tires for the wife's Av, we had to have it redone, and the shop said they had forgotten to do the "high performance balance" and redid it -- it's now fine. But it was never this bad either.
On top of that, the front PS tire has a groove cut in the back part of the hoop (came from when the wheel almost came off on the maiden voyage and the lower control arm bolt tried to eat it's way through the hoop
)
The question is: reset the rear wedges today or wait until after I get the tires rebalanced?
I realized that I set up the axle for a 1 piece DS (so the 1* wedge facing the opposite direction from what the instructions say for a 2 piece DS) and I did not install the carrier bearing spacer thing as I built a custom mount for the carrier bearing anyway.
Here's the catch, the tires were supposedly balanced when mounted in FL, but when they did the rims and tires for the wife's Av, we had to have it redone, and the shop said they had forgotten to do the "high performance balance" and redid it -- it's now fine. But it was never this bad either.
On top of that, the front PS tire has a groove cut in the back part of the hoop (came from when the wheel almost came off on the maiden voyage and the lower control arm bolt tried to eat it's way through the hoop
)The question is: reset the rear wedges today or wait until after I get the tires rebalanced?
, but we'll see.
09-16-2007, 02:07 PM
#4
I am sure it isn't it, but that description fits a rear end going bad. I doubt that's it, so I'd definitely want to point towards driveline/pinion angle as well.
That hoop, I would think you'd feel that vibration in the steering wheel more so than anywhere else. Did you keep your conversion of 2wd? Then I doubt that front wheel is the culprit.
That hoop, I would think you'd feel that vibration in the steering wheel more so than anywhere else. Did you keep your conversion of 2wd? Then I doubt that front wheel is the culprit.
09-16-2007, 02:24 PM
#5
I do feel it mostly in the steering wheel, but it's bad enough you can feel it in the passenger seat (through out actually). I was just thinking about this, and I wonder if that wheel got popped out of round...
I was thinking maybe the weight transfer under load is why you don't feel it as much -- not as much force on the bad wheel??
Taking it try a balance on Tuesday afternoon and we'll through it up on the rack and take a look.
I was thinking maybe the weight transfer under load is why you don't feel it as much -- not as much force on the bad wheel??
Taking it try a balance on Tuesday afternoon and we'll through it up on the rack and take a look.
Trending Topics
09-19-2007, 06:27 PM
#9
Fixed!!
And the answer is: NONE OF THE ABOVE lol
You're going to love this... When they cut my wheels, the cut the ID of the center to the exact OD of the hub. So, when you put on the wheels, they would be on tight and you could torque (or even over torque) them to your hearts content but they never seated the rotors. I had them on so tight, they had to knock the wheels off with a mallet.
The whole issue (even the wheel almost coming off) stems from this. The wheels would move with a bump (shift) if the lugs weren't super tight. Even with the lugs super tight, the rotors could still shift -- in fact you could hear them knocking back and forth when the engine wasn't running. That was the source of the vibration in toto.
The wheels were both less than a gram out of balance.
We just clearenced the wheels a little so they'd slide right on and seat the rotor and bingo: butter smooth.
The best part about it is that I made a lot of friends (some serious gear heads) down at the shop and had a lot of fun.
You're going to love this... When they cut my wheels, the cut the ID of the center to the exact OD of the hub. So, when you put on the wheels, they would be on tight and you could torque (or even over torque) them to your hearts content but they never seated the rotors. I had them on so tight, they had to knock the wheels off with a mallet.
The whole issue (even the wheel almost coming off) stems from this. The wheels would move with a bump (shift) if the lugs weren't super tight. Even with the lugs super tight, the rotors could still shift -- in fact you could hear them knocking back and forth when the engine wasn't running. That was the source of the vibration in toto.
The wheels were both less than a gram out of balance.
We just clearenced the wheels a little so they'd slide right on and seat the rotor and bingo: butter smooth.
The best part about it is that I made a lot of friends (some serious gear heads) down at the shop and had a lot of fun.
