Let me see if I have the correct. You measured the angle of the front and rear pieces of the rear drive shaft while it was on the lift and shimmed it within half a degree right?

As a standard all suspension measuments are taken from ride height so that they can be optomized where they will be living. Now the pinion angle is a bit different than the driveshaft angle. You will be measuring the angle that the pinion gear in you diff housing. Then relative to your drive shaft angle make it negative 2 degrees. The way that kinda makes sense is to think about it like a lever getting a better dig under an object. When that pinion starts rotating it tries to climb the ring gear, twisting the rear axle upwards. What your looking to have happen is your pinion and drive shaft to come into alignment for the ultimate smooth opperator status.

Once your rear axle twists upward the bars should be leveraging against your frame from the front connection point, pushing your rear axle towards the ground. Essentially with things working properly you should see rear tire seperation from the body and even rear lift. Trucks are pretty tricky so get set up proper so some rely on inertia weight transfer. Which will make the rear suspension squat or compress. That isn't the quickest way to the '60 mark but sure the hell beats spinning.

 

Hey Domination,
I put a negative load on my traction bars and it helped a ton!
also pulled my sway bar.

I need to find a angle finder and get to work on my suspension.

 

i run 12.5 lbs in my hoosiers. i had to get a bolt kit too because i was spinning the rim inside of the tire.

-2* pinion angle like mentioned...

and the biggest suggestion i have is try and find your trucks sweet spot. it looks like your just pushing it too hard at the line. it shouldnt be ready to spin...your basically power braking it at the line just on the brink of breaking loose. guess what. when you let off the gas and hammer it it will break loose like that every time. leaving on 15lbs of boost doesnt exactly mean better times all the time.

my truck launches harder at 1500rpm even though i can brake stall it to 2500rpm. play around with your launches. maybe launch at 3-5psi and see what happens it may surprise you.

you could also keep launching it the way you are, but let the truck get out there about 10' before you hammer down on it. foot control. thats how i launch on the street.

 

Im goin to get new rear brakes and see if it helps..
I have to push it hard to get boost off the line. if not my 60' really sucks.
and i dont get much seat time to try differnet ways.

Maybe one day ill get it sorted out. Cam, Stall, and MP70 then we will see what it needs all over again.

 

I once read something about getting the leaf springs off the HD's. Something about the blue ones? Don't remember but it was a trick someone did to help them get traction. It's been such a long time I might be completely wrong on what I remember.

 

I think thats on the 1500 too. If your have a red peice of tape they are the smooth ride ones, a blue piece is like the HD, or come with a tow package or something? not sure of the years....

Red is preferred

 

Nonnie, have you done any more with this yet?? I'd think that you would be hooking up easy by now with a stock converter and tall gears.... and maybe having trouble about 3-40' out once you build more boost... I have my pinion more negative than most... but thats the way mines gotta be from what I can tell -3.5*

 

This is true! Unfortunately it's the by-product of wanting to leave with boost. Unless you have 4wd or AWD, you're NEVER going to hook up while trying to boost launch and pushing against the converter.

You need antisquat to hook. Domination touched on this too. When you're building boost on the line, your back end rises. I'm sure you can feel it in the cab. I can see it in the videos. That's the antisquat going to work. The problem is, when you feel it rise on the line, that's it...you just used it up. Now you leave with boost and no means of planting the tires.

I recommend trying to leave with no boost off idle. Then try 1500rpm and so on. If traction is better but you're still slow, then try a 2 step or a transbrake. That will allow you to have boost, but not load the suspension so much.

Separation in the back is good. Squat isn't the answer. Weight transfer will come, but only when the tires plant.

 

I remember them saying they used the blue ones and flipped them...used them upside down or something?

 

I actually got a 1.84 62' (supposedly the 60' is 62' at the 500' track )I did a hugemunges burnout tho, so im sure that helped.
i think i told you bout that last time i talked to ya?


I put a negative load on the traction bars and sprayed the nitrous once i got moving. Gonna get new rear brakes when i have some time home.