silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

Just picked up my built 4L80E trans and it came with the new Ross-lock system for late model computer controlled overdrive transmissions. I thought it was controlled by a switchable ground but after speaking to Carl at Rossler, its a momentary 12v...

He advised me to never use it on anything but a prepped track and with heated slicks. Never on street tires, and never with the vehicle's wheels off the ground for sure. And it won't work with the selector in anything but the D3 position. No engaging the transbrake to shift into reverse like some of the older setups either. The transmission operates like normal until you drop it in D3, push the button, and all hell breaks loose

I want to try and wire it up on the tow/haul button somehow, any thoughts on how to maybe do this?

What changes in the converter might need to be made to make this it a little better??

BlackGMC

iTrader: (31)

Wow, that shold be fun, well fun at least once

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

Why only once?!?

nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

if your rear diff holds up, i wont be scurred of mine...

Im interested on how everything works out, and i wanna ride in it once you figure out how to push all the buttons and stuff

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

I'm gonna need to borrow your two-step to go along with this thing haha

I know the 10B won't like the launch but I don't beat on it all the time. I'm not going to use it until everything else is squared away though...

Anybody else have any experience with these things???

nonnieselman

iTrader: (10)

just push the button and hold it to the floor.... what else is there?

built408

iTrader: (10)

I've never messed with them in 80's, but they sure are fun in 400's. Wiring it up with the tow-haul would be a good idea and isn't that hard. I had my purge wired up like that on my old truck. I'll get you a schematic on how I did that. It just needs power and ground to energize the solenoid, and most brake manufactures want you to give it straight B+ and then ground it to activate it. But vice versa would work just as well.

built408

iTrader: (10)

Give the solenoid straight B+, then cut the wire at connector 1 B12 light blue wire at the bcm and run that to the other side of the solenoid.

vanillagorilla

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't wire the T-brake so it goes through the BCM, relay, or anything for that matter. It will just delay the release of it. Also, the tow/hual button isn't really meant for a quick release type application and it's of course non-adjustable unlike a t-brake button. However, if you're not concerned about reaction time, it can be done. Just use the wires coming off it, take one to a switched 12V source w/an inline fuse and the other to the solenoid. The solenoid should be grounded to the transmission itself.

Another thing to consider is the amount of current the tow/haul button can take. Most t-brake switches are rated at 15-25amps I believe since they're meant for use without a relay. You should verify the tow/haul switch can take that before you fry it.

As for the 10-bolt, don't sweat it too much. Just don't sit on the t-brake too long and build a ton of boost. I've hit my t-brake a few times now on the 10-bolt, and it's still working....I guess.

silver-mod-o

iTrader: (15)

After reading some more and talking to Rossler again, I'm gonna run it on a seperate button... He said the transbrake should only draw about 5 amps. I'm probably gonna wire it up on a purge button or something and put it hidden somewhere on the dash or console.

I'm only looking to leave on maybe 8-10psi once its all said and done, and on the brake it should build that fairly quickly. Ill run the suspension setup how it is and see what I need to change, but I can almost guarantee now that Ill need to add overloads back in, at least cut them and install the center section over the axle for some added ride height and suspension travel... And tighten the snot out of my longbars. I like the softer ride without them though.