Depends where your cooler is but 7' gave me more than enough room

 

ok, gonna try and keep it in the stock location. Thanks

 

got the lines all made up. Took some string and measured the stock lines. I made 2 8' lines, I like to keep it safe. I can always cut and reuse the fitting.
on another note, this is the first time that I have used fittings other than Russell, the Koul tool seems to me made around them. When I put the Summit brand fitting in it was too long for the tool to close. I was able to do one by placing it in my vice and clamping down. Well I didn't like that so I did it the old fashion way. Placed the fitting in a vice and pushing the hose in with the help of a small screwdriver. looks great. Cant wait to have it installed. Thanks for all of the great info and help.

 

Thanks for that about the Koul Tool. Saves me $40. Going to order my lines today. I was going to do the push lok, but I read too many horror stories with getting the fittings to fit. Braided is easy to work with, just sharp.

 

I used push loc for mine with no problems.

 

I used factory aux cooler lines (had to buy the kit from the dealer for about $70-$80 my price), and the EAD brackets and fittings kit. I made a thread with my install, that is probably linked somewhere on the first page of this sticky. If your truck already came with the factory aux cooler, you don't need to buy the kit. I was able to sell the new factory cooler that came with the kit also, which helped bring the install price down about 20 bux IIRC. It's a nice clean install and looks factory aside from one compression fitting, and is more of a budget way to do it. If I had more dough I would have done black braided lines and AN fittings though, but it took me 18 months to pay off the FLT Level7 as it was and I was dying to get my truck back on the road.

I had a bunch of trucool/trans swap threads floating around last spring and summer, here's a few lol:

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...hlight=trucool

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...hlight=trucool

Here's my 40k...

 

I'm wanting to say mine were 8' ea. IIRC, I allowed extra. I think 6' woulda been too short. Extra allows easy routing thru factory slots in shrouding & such; & extra for cut /fit of braided if mistakes arise. I think the other line was 5'.
I was suggest string method or take off an line & measure to it. You went about it a good way. Both work. As an alternative remove factory hard line, mount braided @ trans end, then route it however u want. W/. push loc, it's a breeze, cause ya don't have to worry about fit / cutting miscues.

 

Thats a nice install bud. I thought about using my factory lines (I do have the factory cooler), but I want to bypass the radiator.

Ive seen where some people dont want to paint the cooler because of heat transfer worries. Eastwood makes a specific radiator paint to paint with. Heres the description since we cant post non-sponsor links..

 

I have had good luck using Hydraulic line with gates fittings. I use a number six or 3/8 hydro hose and the gates fittings are plenty big enough on the inside. This is a really clean install I usually use compression fittings and just clamp on to the stock line under the water pump and go hydro the rest of the way but I have went from cooler all the way to tranny with the hydro line. I will try and post pics tomorrow I have done several like this with no problems no leaks and no clamps

 

Question about using the 90 and 45 fittings on the trans, any problems with the dipstick? Ive been doing the whole search thing and some say with the 90, its a PITA to get the dipstick in.. How would 2 45s work or will they not fit? I also thought about using swivels at the trans to make it a tad easier, but I have had some leak.