TruCool 40K question
04-18-2010, 09:34 PM
#31
Id pick up a case of fluid, it doesnt take very much more with the larger cooler. I use the cheapo stuff, IMO there isnt really any difference. I would just go with an escalade cluster, you get a 120mph better looking cluster with trans temp gauge. Why reprogram the mileage? You know how much is on the truck and its a nice counter for how many miles you have on the trans 
I can do the swap in 3 hours busting my *** but Ive done it a few more times than Id care to count. Id think someone doing it for the first time is in for twice that time. Youre lucky since usually the biggest PITA of a trans swap is getting the manifold/ypipe out but youve got an aftermarket setup that isnt slip fit so it should come down nice and easy.
I wouldnt flush the system unless you find crud in the pan of your stock trans. There is no reason to, now bud may need to pay attention to his fluid and make sure its not contaminated. The lines wont take very long at all to run. Just mock it up before hand so all you have to do is put the line ends on the cooler side. I can take some pics some time this week when I make my way out into the garage to finish putting my truck back together. My mounting isnt pretty but its solid and works, you cant see it behind the grill anyway and Im not going for a show truck just a functional truck.
I can do the swap in 3 hours busting my *** but Ive done it a few more times than Id care to count. Id think someone doing it for the first time is in for twice that time. Youre lucky since usually the biggest PITA of a trans swap is getting the manifold/ypipe out but youve got an aftermarket setup that isnt slip fit so it should come down nice and easy.
I wouldnt flush the system unless you find crud in the pan of your stock trans. There is no reason to, now bud may need to pay attention to his fluid and make sure its not contaminated. The lines wont take very long at all to run. Just mock it up before hand so all you have to do is put the line ends on the cooler side. I can take some pics some time this week when I make my way out into the garage to finish putting my truck back together. My mounting isnt pretty but its solid and works, you cant see it behind the grill anyway and Im not going for a show truck just a functional truck.
A couple of things that will make my swap a little tougher:
1)Trans blew and system is contaminated with debris
2)StainlessWorks LT's and y-pipe are slip fit...hope they don't give me problems coming apart.
3)Doing u-joints while driveshaft is out
4)I'm 4wd, and will be opening up the transfer case to replace the pump clip as a preventive measure (the clips are prone to breaking, allowing the pump to rock in the case and wear a hole through the case half
5)I will be working on my back in my apartment complex parking lot...air compressor will be in the garage, but I can't really use it considering where I live. I will be moving at the end of June though, and may just say f*#k it! lol
6)Truck is a 99, which I am told has allen head torque converter bolts that are way over tightened and loc-tited in, and are prone to easy strippage
Those are the main "extra issuess" that I have to look forward to....plus the normal Murphy's Law, "what can happen will" issues lol
Let's not forget 11 years of northeast oxidation...gotta love rust!
04-18-2010, 10:08 PM
#32
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yea them converter bolts SUCK... get a good allen socket set and a breaker bar... haha.. they locktight them suckers from factory... buy some arps to go back with.... good luck... i pulled mine twice.. once to put a verter in and then when it blew.. so i went 80e.. specifically because i hate pulling a trans...
04-18-2010, 10:09 PM
#33
Everyone should be blessed with a garage to do Man types of things; it should be in the Constitution damn-it!
04-18-2010, 10:28 PM
#34
Yessir, I'll definitely be flushing mine, not necessary for Tom, although he did mention his trans has been a little funky the past few days. FLT provides a can of tranny flush, as does Performabuilt.
A couple of things that will make my swap a little tougher:
1)Trans blew and system is contaminated with debris
2)StainlessWorks LT's and y-pipe are slip fit...hope they don't give me problems coming apart.
3)Doing u-joints while driveshaft is out
4)I'm 4wd, and will be opening up the transfer case to replace the pump clip as a preventive measure (the clips are prone to breaking, allowing the pump to rock in the case and wear a hole through the case half
5)I will be working on my back in my apartment complex parking lot...air compressor will be in the garage, but I can't really use it considering where I live. I will be moving at the end of June though, and may just say f*#k it! lol
6)Truck is a 99, which I am told has allen head torque converter bolts that are way over tightened and loc-tited in, and are prone to easy strippage
Those are the main "extra issuess" that I have to look forward to....plus the normal Murphy's Law, "what can happen will" issues lol
Let's not forget 11 years of northeast oxidation...gotta love rust!
A couple of things that will make my swap a little tougher:
1)Trans blew and system is contaminated with debris
2)StainlessWorks LT's and y-pipe are slip fit...hope they don't give me problems coming apart.
3)Doing u-joints while driveshaft is out
4)I'm 4wd, and will be opening up the transfer case to replace the pump clip as a preventive measure (the clips are prone to breaking, allowing the pump to rock in the case and wear a hole through the case half
5)I will be working on my back in my apartment complex parking lot...air compressor will be in the garage, but I can't really use it considering where I live. I will be moving at the end of June though, and may just say f*#k it! lol
6)Truck is a 99, which I am told has allen head torque converter bolts that are way over tightened and loc-tited in, and are prone to easy strippage
Those are the main "extra issuess" that I have to look forward to....plus the normal Murphy's Law, "what can happen will" issues lol
Let's not forget 11 years of northeast oxidation...gotta love rust!
How many miles are on your truck? I replaced the bearings in my tcase while I had it apart, IIRC it was about 80 bucks for all of them.
On the tc bolts, you can spin the converter through the inspection hole on the bottom. Spray penetrating oil on them through that hole, and throw a little heat on them and they will come right out. Ive only done one 99 and it did indeed have some allen head bolts, Ive got a set of craftsman sockets that work great for them. The main thing as you know is to keep the socket square in the hole. I usually use a 3/8 ratchet with a 3" extension then my socket on the end. Works perfect and allows you to butt the ratchet up against the block and really crank down on the bolts.
Get a screwdriver that has a shank about a foot long with the biggest head possible, it will help turn the flewplate much easier.
On the slip fits, Ive found that if theyre stubborn, take a floor jack and put a 4x4 on it then jack that up directly on the joint and it will usually pop it apart enoguh that you can go ahead and pull it. Ive also had to use a come-a-long to pull on the crossover pipe while hitting the joing with a small 4lb sledge.
When it comes closer to the time to do the swap Ill give ya my number, Ive done it a few times and all but one were on my back too
04-18-2010, 10:42 PM
#35
that brought back some memories. not to long i was living in an apt down south going to school, id have to mess around with my truck in the parking lot. i would either be under the hood, crawling under it(hoping not to get my legs ran over that were sticking out), or even changed the wheels couple times. and people would drive by and give the strangest looks, but i didnt care. had the tools and gotta do it somewhere is how i look at it, and im not gonna pay somebody else for it..If you are for sure gonna leave id say indeed F@#k it and let er rip til as late as you need too..
04-19-2010, 12:27 AM
#36
yea them converter bolts SUCK... get a good allen socket set and a breaker bar... haha.. they locktight them suckers from factory... buy some arps to go back with.... good luck... i pulled mine twice.. once to put a verter in and then when it blew.. so i went 80e.. specifically because i hate pulling a trans...
Originally Posted by 1Bear
I'll pray for you! I know you can't wait to move obviously, but you have to do what you have to do. Back when I 1st met Charlie (Wheatley), he lived in an apartment and we did a cam & spring swap in one of those little garages that will barely hold a bicycle and a lawnmower, much less an extended cab truck. It felt like it was 120 degrees and humidity so high you could float a boat, you couldn't get a breath of air. Someone always had to stay with the truck while the other would go get something to drink or go to the bathroom to keep someone from walking off with all his tools or parts, that and constantly worrying about whether or not someone from the complex is going to come down on you.
Everyone should be blessed with a garage to do Man types of things; it should be in the Constitution damn-it!
Everyone should be blessed with a garage to do Man types of things; it should be in the Constitution damn-it!
The good thing about moving is I don't mind so much if I **** off the neighbors, so I'll probably fire up the compressor for a few choice moments, such as; blowing out the cooler lines after running the trans flush through the system, and hooking up my air hammer if one of the converter bolts decides to go round...a little "brraattt" with a blunt air chisel should cure what ails me. I plan on renting a house next, with a garage...maybe some day I'll own one...and I wish it was my Constitutional right to own one for sure! 
Originally Posted by 1slow01z71
You need a special allen wrench to pull the bolt out that holds the fork in the tcase. Dont forget that, Ive got one if you cant source it locally Ill send it up to ya. Since your system is contaminated Id really consider just going to the new cooler now. That way there is no chance any debris gets in your new toy.
How many miles are on your truck? I replaced the bearings in my tcase while I had it apart, IIRC it was about 80 bucks for all of them.
On the tc bolts, you can spin the converter through the inspection hole on the bottom. Spray penetrating oil on them through that hole, and throw a little heat on them and they will come right out. Ive only done one 99 and it did indeed have some allen head bolts, Ive got a set of craftsman sockets that work great for them. The main thing as you know is to keep the socket square in the hole. I usually use a 3/8 ratchet with a 3" extension then my socket on the end. Works perfect and allows you to butt the ratchet up against the block and really crank down on the bolts.
Get a screwdriver that has a shank about a foot long with the biggest head possible, it will help turn the flewplate much easier.
On the slip fits, Ive found that if theyre stubborn, take a floor jack and put a 4x4 on it then jack that up directly on the joint and it will usually pop it apart enoguh that you can go ahead and pull it. Ive also had to use a come-a-long to pull on the crossover pipe while hitting the joing with a small 4lb sledge.
When it comes closer to the time to do the swap Ill give ya my number, Ive done it a few times and all but one were on my back too
How many miles are on your truck? I replaced the bearings in my tcase while I had it apart, IIRC it was about 80 bucks for all of them.
On the tc bolts, you can spin the converter through the inspection hole on the bottom. Spray penetrating oil on them through that hole, and throw a little heat on them and they will come right out. Ive only done one 99 and it did indeed have some allen head bolts, Ive got a set of craftsman sockets that work great for them. The main thing as you know is to keep the socket square in the hole. I usually use a 3/8 ratchet with a 3" extension then my socket on the end. Works perfect and allows you to butt the ratchet up against the block and really crank down on the bolts.
Get a screwdriver that has a shank about a foot long with the biggest head possible, it will help turn the flewplate much easier.
On the slip fits, Ive found that if theyre stubborn, take a floor jack and put a 4x4 on it then jack that up directly on the joint and it will usually pop it apart enoguh that you can go ahead and pull it. Ive also had to use a come-a-long to pull on the crossover pipe while hitting the joing with a small 4lb sledge.
When it comes closer to the time to do the swap Ill give ya my number, Ive done it a few times and all but one were on my back too
I thought of doing the cooler at the same time, but the can of trans flush should take care of it. My current cooler is the tube and fin style, and the tubes are pretty big so debris *shouldn't* get stuck in there. I'm just getting tight on dough again...still owe FLT $400, and I need a battery, plus trans fluid, t-case fluid, and possibly new nuts and bolts for the cat-back.
My truck has 59.6k and the t-case wasn't making any funny noises when I last drove it, so hopefully I'll be OK with that. If I ever end up having to pull it again, oh well.
Good tip on the slip fits....I recently remembered that the driver's side slip fit over the header collector was really tight, and I actually had to use my die grinder to massage the collector to get it to fit over. I plan on running the engine and getting the pipes good and hot so hopefully they will come apart easier...I have some good SnapOn Impact gloves that should help me from burning my hands "too bad" lol
I'm considering getting the hard lines for the factory cooler to plumb the trucool...think I'll refer to that in my "Plumbing a trucool" thread
Originally Posted by skolman91
that brought back some memories. not to long i was living in an apt down south going to school, id have to mess around with my truck in the parking lot. i would either be under the hood, crawling under it(hoping not to get my legs ran over that were sticking out), or even changed the wheels couple times. and people would drive by and give the strangest looks, but i didnt care. had the tools and gotta do it somewhere is how i look at it, and im not gonna pay somebody else for it..
If you are for sure gonna leave id say indeed F@#k it and let er rip til as late as you need too..
If you are for sure gonna leave id say indeed F@#k it and let er rip til as late as you need too..
" It's amazing how people don't mind what you're doing once they're in on it 
04-19-2010, 10:03 AM
#37
You need a special allen wrench to pull the bolt out that holds the fork in the tcase. Dont forget that, Ive got one if you cant source it locally Ill send it up to ya. Since your system is contaminated Id really consider just going to the new cooler now. That way there is no chance any debris gets in your new toy.
On the tc bolts, you can spin the converter through the inspection hole on the bottom. Spray penetrating oil on them through that hole, and throw a little heat on them and they will come right out. Ive only done one 99 and it did indeed have some allen head bolts, Ive got a set of craftsman sockets that work great for them. The main thing as you know is to keep the socket square in the hole. I usually use a 3/8 ratchet with a 3" extension then my socket on the end. Works perfect and allows you to butt the ratchet up against the block and really crank down on the bolts.
Get a screwdriver that has a shank about a foot long with the biggest head possible, it will help turn the flexplate much easier.
On the slip fits, Ive found that if theyre stubborn, take a floor jack and put a 4x4 on it then jack that up directly on the joint and it will usually pop it apart enough that you can go ahead and pull it. Ive also had to use a come-a-long to pull on the crossover pipe while hitting the joint with a small 4lb sledge.
When it comes closer to the time to do the swap Ill give ya my number, Ive done it a few times and all but one were on my back too
On the tc bolts, you can spin the converter through the inspection hole on the bottom. Spray penetrating oil on them through that hole, and throw a little heat on them and they will come right out. Ive only done one 99 and it did indeed have some allen head bolts, Ive got a set of craftsman sockets that work great for them. The main thing as you know is to keep the socket square in the hole. I usually use a 3/8 ratchet with a 3" extension then my socket on the end. Works perfect and allows you to butt the ratchet up against the block and really crank down on the bolts.
Get a screwdriver that has a shank about a foot long with the biggest head possible, it will help turn the flexplate much easier.
On the slip fits, Ive found that if theyre stubborn, take a floor jack and put a 4x4 on it then jack that up directly on the joint and it will usually pop it apart enough that you can go ahead and pull it. Ive also had to use a come-a-long to pull on the crossover pipe while hitting the joint with a small 4lb sledge.
When it comes closer to the time to do the swap Ill give ya my number, Ive done it a few times and all but one were on my back too
Good tip on the slip fit. I hope my crossover slip fit is easy tho. We'll see.Yea, I've heard nothing but bad things about those bolts...I have nice SnapOn allen sockets though, and I'll make sure that they're fully seated and square before I go to break them loose. I believe that the Circle-D converter comes with new bolts...maybe one of our happy Circle-D customers here can confirm that for me...
Thanks a ton Cody! I'll definitely get your number when the time comes...if you could provide me with a link or description of the allen wrench that I need for the t-case, I'll pick one up from my SnapOn dealer this week...if he can't deliver I'll gladly borrow yours. I like to have any possible tool that I may ever need though lol, so first I'll see if I can find one.
Good tip on the slip fits....I recently remembered that the driver's side slip fit over the header collector was really tight, and I actually had to use my die grinder to massage the collector to get it to fit over. I plan on running the engine and getting the pipes good and hot so hopefully they will come apart easier...
I'm considering getting the hard lines for the factory cooler to plumb the trucool...think I'll refer to that in my "Plumbing a trucool" thread
...
Thanks a ton Cody! I'll definitely get your number when the time comes...if you could provide me with a link or description of the allen wrench that I need for the t-case, I'll pick one up from my SnapOn dealer this week...if he can't deliver I'll gladly borrow yours. I like to have any possible tool that I may ever need though lol, so first I'll see if I can find one.
Good tip on the slip fits....I recently remembered that the driver's side slip fit over the header collector was really tight, and I actually had to use my die grinder to massage the collector to get it to fit over. I plan on running the engine and getting the pipes good and hot so hopefully they will come apart easier...
I'm considering getting the hard lines for the factory cooler to plumb the trucool...think I'll refer to that in my "Plumbing a trucool" thread
...
I'll let ya know, but believe it does.
04-19-2010, 11:07 AM
#39
Oh ya, I forgot. Ya, I called Chris. Billy, bolts are included. 10 x 1.5mm. Said he thought of ARP's but never had a problem w/. these. They're 10.9 M, which = Grade 8. So that's 1 less thing needed. As usual, Circle D service is top notch.
