True bolt on rear 15" wheel and 5 lug swap for 99-04
10-01-2014 | 07:35 PM
#32
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however, you can go to Oakley's thread (https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...-530848/page4/) and see exactly what it looks like. Mine looks identical with the exception of 5 lugs versus 6.
11-05-2014 | 07:54 PM
#33
Looks good. So, just to do the rears, how much u figure u got in $ spent? I saw post #1, but didn't add it all up. My next question is, how much time did it take u to make it all fit? Wasn't tryin to be lazy by not tallying it up, just wondering if anything else. I'm starting to look at my options for traction. Stock Grabbers haven't cut it for awhile, & it's getting old.
How soon before u get goin on fronts?
How soon before u get goin on fronts?
11-05-2014 | 08:49 PM
#34
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I'm in right around $1500 including the new wheels and tires. The swap itself is simple really. It can easily be done in half a day.
I'm going to the track Friday night and if all goes well (fingers crossed), I should be able to click off a 10 second run given what I was able to do last time. That will be with the 20s up front. I've been too lazy to swap the front to 5 lug and frankly am pretty tired of working on this old POS. But I want 10s.
If all you want is traction, just get some 16" ET street radials or slicks and put them on stock wheels. I tried the 17" M&H drag radials and they could not hold for me, but others seem to be having good luck with them. The main draw to the 15s for me was the fact that I could get away from the midget tires. 15" is the only size you can get 30" diameter drag radials in. For all other wheel sizes, 28" is the biggest, and even those M&H tires are listed as 28" they were 27" tall installed. In other words, they looked stupid on my truck IMO.
I'm going to the track Friday night and if all goes well (fingers crossed), I should be able to click off a 10 second run given what I was able to do last time. That will be with the 20s up front. I've been too lazy to swap the front to 5 lug and frankly am pretty tired of working on this old POS. But I want 10s.
If all you want is traction, just get some 16" ET street radials or slicks and put them on stock wheels. I tried the 17" M&H drag radials and they could not hold for me, but others seem to be having good luck with them. The main draw to the 15s for me was the fact that I could get away from the midget tires. 15" is the only size you can get 30" diameter drag radials in. For all other wheel sizes, 28" is the biggest, and even those M&H tires are listed as 28" they were 27" tall installed. In other words, they looked stupid on my truck IMO.
11-06-2014 | 01:09 PM
#35
I'm in right around $1500 including the new wheels and tires. The swap itself is simple really. It can easily be done in half a day.
I'm going to the track Friday night and if all goes well (fingers crossed), I should be able to click off a 10 second run given what I was able to do last time. That will be with the 20s up front. I've been too lazy to swap the front to 5 lug and frankly am pretty tired of working on this old POS. But I want 10s.
If all you want is traction, just get some 16" ET street radials or slicks and put them on stock wheels. I tried the 17" M&H drag radials and they could not hold for me, but others seem to be having good luck with them. The main draw to the 15s for me was the fact that I could get away from the midget tires. 15" is the only size you can get 30" diameter drag radials in. For all other wheel sizes, 28" is the biggest, and even those M&H tires are listed as 28" they were 27" tall installed. In other words, they looked stupid on my truck IMO.
I'm going to the track Friday night and if all goes well (fingers crossed), I should be able to click off a 10 second run given what I was able to do last time. That will be with the 20s up front. I've been too lazy to swap the front to 5 lug and frankly am pretty tired of working on this old POS. But I want 10s.
If all you want is traction, just get some 16" ET street radials or slicks and put them on stock wheels. I tried the 17" M&H drag radials and they could not hold for me, but others seem to be having good luck with them. The main draw to the 15s for me was the fact that I could get away from the midget tires. 15" is the only size you can get 30" diameter drag radials in. For all other wheel sizes, 28" is the biggest, and even those M&H tires are listed as 28" they were 27" tall installed. In other words, they looked stupid on my truck IMO.
28" tall slicks mean 16 or 17" wheels, beyond that DRs only. U likely encountered this issue & more.
I really like the 5 lug wheel choices more, as I always have, but it's the time vs money dilemma.
Any plans to go full slick?
11-06-2014 | 03:36 PM
#37
U'r far faster than me now, & u'r faster than I plan to go ( I said that now). 
No traction aids? Beside tire?
If it's working for u, as it has for many, DRs or ET Streets, as opposed to a full on slick, I'm happy for ya, Mike. It may also be due to your weight distribution on EC vs RC too.
I'm the last guy who'd ever think slick. but now I am.
2wds are at distinct traction advantage vs 4wd & AWD, as u know. Again tho, as u know 2wds are lighter. But I've had 2 real good sources, along w/ a 3rd, say slick even at my level now. Ponder this, & ya it's on a Mustang, but the info is pertinent.
He had motor built, 591RWHP. Didn't even try to use stock tires. Used a DR, & I asked did he change anything else, said no. Went from a DR to a slick, picked up .8 advantage.
No traction aids? Beside tire?
If it's working for u, as it has for many, DRs or ET Streets, as opposed to a full on slick, I'm happy for ya, Mike. It may also be due to your weight distribution on EC vs RC too.
I'm the last guy who'd ever think slick. but now I am.
2wds are at distinct traction advantage vs 4wd & AWD, as u know. Again tho, as u know 2wds are lighter. But I've had 2 real good sources, along w/ a 3rd, say slick even at my level now. Ponder this, & ya it's on a Mustang, but the info is pertinent.
He had motor built, 591RWHP. Didn't even try to use stock tires. Used a DR, & I asked did he change anything else, said no. Went from a DR to a slick, picked up .8 advantage.
11-06-2014 | 04:04 PM
#38
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My suspension is stock other than a flip kit. No traction aid. Ive been told ext cabs are much harder to hook up due to length. If traction is a must then yea, go with a slick but if you csn hook on a DR it will be faster. I think a lot depends on track prep.
11-06-2014 | 06:52 PM
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That's a very complicated question at the moment. For starters, I really want to run 15s to achieve a massive weight savings. My front wheels/tires are currently 72 lbs each.
Thing is, I have also upgraded to the 05+ rotors/calipers. So the minimum wheel size is 17" (without grinding). The 99-04s can run 15s stock.
The other issue is cost. Swapping to 5 lug isn't exactly cheap (new hubs are $440 plus the cost of redrilling rotors). The only game in town for 6 lug front wheels is Bogart and those are pricey. They run about $450 a wheel for the 17" street/strip wheels. Whereas, a 17" 5 lug Racestar wheel is half of that.
Currently I've got 5 lug in the back and 6 lug in front, so in reality I do need to swap to 5 lug up front. I may get around to it, I may not. I'm getting to the point with this truck where I need to do significant upgrades (fuel system) and stuff may start breaking. And I really don't want to go there yet at this time. If I can click off a 10 second run and do that consistently as it sits now I think I'll be happy and I may just move onto another project.
Thing is, I have also upgraded to the 05+ rotors/calipers. So the minimum wheel size is 17" (without grinding). The 99-04s can run 15s stock.
The other issue is cost. Swapping to 5 lug isn't exactly cheap (new hubs are $440 plus the cost of redrilling rotors). The only game in town for 6 lug front wheels is Bogart and those are pricey. They run about $450 a wheel for the 17" street/strip wheels. Whereas, a 17" 5 lug Racestar wheel is half of that.
Currently I've got 5 lug in the back and 6 lug in front, so in reality I do need to swap to 5 lug up front. I may get around to it, I may not. I'm getting to the point with this truck where I need to do significant upgrades (fuel system) and stuff may start breaking. And I really don't want to go there yet at this time. If I can click off a 10 second run and do that consistently as it sits now I think I'll be happy and I may just move onto another project.