TrueTrac in Front Diff
#1
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TrueTrac in Front Diff
Any you guys that are using a TT in the rear of your trucks.. If you lift a tire off the ground, will the diff let the other tire gain traction?
Im building a Suzuki Samurai and i can go "cheap" and get a Lockrite for $300 or i can spend a lil more and get a truetrac for $440. It is getting a narrowed 1977 GM 8.5" 10bolt in the front.
It has 31x13.5 Super Swampers so nothing big, but with a cammed 4.8, NP205, and 4.10s, its gonna have decent power.
I had thought about the Eaton LSD but i dont want to be replacing the clutchs in it. The EATON is my silverado is still holding up good, but the Samurai is gonna see alot of 4x4 action in mud and sand. I dont think the E LSD is gonna like that too much.
And water contamination in the TT shouldnt be a problem where with the Clutchs in the LSD it might kill it.
Im building a Suzuki Samurai and i can go "cheap" and get a Lockrite for $300 or i can spend a lil more and get a truetrac for $440. It is getting a narrowed 1977 GM 8.5" 10bolt in the front.
It has 31x13.5 Super Swampers so nothing big, but with a cammed 4.8, NP205, and 4.10s, its gonna have decent power.
I had thought about the Eaton LSD but i dont want to be replacing the clutchs in it. The EATON is my silverado is still holding up good, but the Samurai is gonna see alot of 4x4 action in mud and sand. I dont think the E LSD is gonna like that too much.
And water contamination in the TT shouldnt be a problem where with the Clutchs in the LSD it might kill it.
#3
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The truetrac will be more forgiving to your front axles than the lockrite. If you're planning to run in mud or sand mostly, it will work well for you. But if you plan on alot of rock crawling, and lifting the tires alot, the lockrite will work better for you. However, I found myself snapping front axle shafts 2-3 times per month with the front axle locked(Dana 44). I say get a truetrac for mud & sand, your 10 bolt will be alot happier.
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Imagine the Browning 1919 mounted on top while making the nightly runs around the farm...
I bought a 97 Sidekick with a 16v 1.6 to use the engine and put it in the Samurai.. But it drank too much creek water and died. the stock 1.3 in the Sami made 50hp.. Imagine a lil over 300hp in it now
The truetrac will be more forgiving to your front axles than the lockrite. If you're planning to run in mud or sand mostly, it will work well for you. But if you plan on alot of rock crawling, and lifting the tires alot, the lockrite will work better for you. However, I found myself snapping front axle shafts 2-3 times per month with the front axle locked(Dana 44). I say get a truetrac for mud & sand, your 10 bolt will be alot happier.
#5
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IMO, put a lockrite in the rear axle, and a truetrac in the front. You will be amazed at the transformation. If that turns out to not be enought(highly doubt it), then put a selectable locker in the front(air locker, or cable operated.....). GM 10b front axles aren't that strong, and the added stresses of a full-time locker on a steering axle will kill it. Your advantage will be the light vehicle.
#6
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Also, go 33's instead of 31's. You'll want them for the extra clearance to the diffs in the mud.
Here's one of my old off-road projects. It went everywhere (mud, snow, mountains, swamps), and still had open diffs when I sold it. Locked rear and LS front would have made it unstoppable!
Here's one of my old off-road projects. It went everywhere (mud, snow, mountains, swamps), and still had open diffs when I sold it. Locked rear and LS front would have made it unstoppable!
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I'm running a d44 in my f150 off road truck, I would never recommend using a true locker in the front unless you have some good forged shafts. You need something that has the ability to slip a little if one tire gets caught while you are spinning, if you are spinning both tires in the mud and one catches a rock, tree root, etc and stops abruptly, you will snap a shaft, where-as an lsd will give you a little cushion if one tire catches hard. I am using a stock trac-lok with the clutches and steels reconfigured and the "agressive" spring and it works pretty well.
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#8
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It would prob be a better to just find a set of waggy 44's..There roughly 59" wide which would be good for the width of the sami..
In my jeep i run an aussie in the front (hp30) on stock shafts and a mini spool in the rear(d44) on stock shafts pushin 33's and dont have any problems with the setup...
I would do a drop-in/lunch box type (lockrite,aussie,spartan) in the front and a full locker or spool in the rear...Having a drop-in in the rear can cause horrible torque steer..
In my jeep i run an aussie in the front (hp30) on stock shafts and a mini spool in the rear(d44) on stock shafts pushin 33's and dont have any problems with the setup...
I would do a drop-in/lunch box type (lockrite,aussie,spartan) in the front and a full locker or spool in the rear...Having a drop-in in the rear can cause horrible torque steer..
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It would prob be a better to just find a set of waggy 44's..There roughly 59" wide which would be good for the width of the sami..
In my jeep i run an aussie in the front (hp30) on stock shafts and a mini spool in the rear(d44) on stock shafts pushin 33's and dont have any problems with the setup...
I would do a drop-in/lunch box type (lockrite,aussie,spartan) in the front and a full locker or spool in the rear...Having a drop-in in the rear can cause horrible torque steer..
In my jeep i run an aussie in the front (hp30) on stock shafts and a mini spool in the rear(d44) on stock shafts pushin 33's and dont have any problems with the setup...
I would do a drop-in/lunch box type (lockrite,aussie,spartan) in the front and a full locker or spool in the rear...Having a drop-in in the rear can cause horrible torque steer..
Been thinking, if i go with the GM 10B, i can get a Truetrac for a 10B rear end that has 30 spline and just get the Moser axles made to fit it, That would give me the strongest i think.
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Ive been told to go with a W D44 but there are none to be found anywhere i have looked. Even looked for Toyota Front ends and no luck..
Been thinking, if i go with the GM 10B, i can get a Truetrac for a 10B rear end that has 30 spline and just get the Moser axles made to fit it, That would give me the strongest i think.
Been thinking, if i go with the GM 10B, i can get a Truetrac for a 10B rear end that has 30 spline and just get the Moser axles made to fit it, That would give me the strongest i think.
As light as the sami is going to be the stock axles in just about anything would do fine with 33's...
Last edited by andrew383; 01-03-2011 at 07:02 PM.