U Joint question
#1
Launching!
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U Joint question
I am getting ready to tune my truck again and Ive heard people say stock drive shafts arent good on the dyno. I brought this up with my tuner and he suggested upgrading u joints. Ive never heard of people doing that, most people just get a new shaft and all. Would changing u joints even be worth the trouble?
Last edited by marovetsm; 04-12-2011 at 07:08 AM.
#2
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Well in my experience with the TWO shafts I've lost it HASN'T been a u-joint issue. My shAfts were still and the factory shafts are paper thin metal and when you spin them so fast it's like a jump rope and starts to bend in the middle until there's enough bend that it just twists into and comes out. Well at least the front half! LOL. The back half just tore up all my exhaust and knocked a hole in my gas tank!
#4
My searching suggests both the aluminum and steel are junk. Also keep in mind the factory u-joints are usually quality spicer made pieces and the nicest replacement at most parts stores would be a down grade.
#5
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I too have heard that typical drive shaft failure on a dyno seems to come from the single shaft (not the split shaft that comes on the ECSB). Failure is from the thin walled steel and not the U-Joints. Most with this issue go with a custom built unit from a quality builder. The build it and balance it out at a higher speed than their truck can go. Either that or just keep it to a 2nd gear pulls and keep it uner 110mph.
#7
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The problem isn't due to the metal being so thin, at least not directly. The same mass of metal, either aluminum or steel with thinner walls and a larger diameter is always stronger than its thicker, smaller counterpart just because of the physics of it. The problem is that thin-walled drive shafts are far more sensitive to an imbalance. They need to be balanced spot on to be able to live up to the claims. Factory balance jobs won't cut it for 140mph+ 3rd gear pulls on the dyno.
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#8
Launching!
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Just got off the phone with driveshaft shop. They said for my limits of 500hp, 140mph, and for a shaft of 65 5/16" they recommended a 3.5" aluminium. But they are 3 and a half weeks behind right now. Gonna do some checking and see if I can get one made sooner...
#9
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If the price difference isn't much why not bump up to a 4" to give you a little bit of head room?
It sucks that they are that far out and you want to get tuned ASAP but its good insurance instead of risking taking out your drivetrain. Any other quality shops around you?
It sucks that they are that far out and you want to get tuned ASAP but its good insurance instead of risking taking out your drivetrain. Any other quality shops around you?
#10
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I got a few other places to call, and going to check out a local shop that builds custom shafts for all the modified and late model guys.
EDIT: Ended up getting a chromoly shaft from the local driveshaft shop in town. I was leaning towards aluminum but he gave me a sweet deal so it was hard to say no, plus I dont have to pay shipping either. Should have it in about 4 days.
EDIT: Ended up getting a chromoly shaft from the local driveshaft shop in town. I was leaning towards aluminum but he gave me a sweet deal so it was hard to say no, plus I dont have to pay shipping either. Should have it in about 4 days.
Last edited by marovetsm; 04-14-2011 at 08:51 AM.
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