U-joint Upgrade
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
Im getting a clunking noise from under my truck and im thinking it could be the u joint??? , Im afraid to get on it for fear of having the dreaded drive shaft beating all to hell. What should i upgrade my U-joint with?
It was making a lot of clunking noises. Not too long after the t-case fell apart inside. This was all about 100K.
You might want to check out a few of the performance driveshaft companies for a HD style u-joint.
You do know the o.e. u-joint retainers have to be burned out or chiseled out.
I've seen that the torch works better. New u-joints will come with customary snap ring type retainers.
Good Luck!
Jim
#4
Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
Don't forget to check the front driveshaft u-joints. My brothers 01' Z71 front driveshaft's u-joints were practically disintegrated. Worn down to small stubs.
It was making a lot of clunking noises. Not too long after the t-case fell apart inside. This was all about 100K.
You might want to check out a few of the performance driveshaft companies for a HD style u-joint.
You do know the o.e. u-joint retainers have to be burned out or chiseled out.
I've seen that the torch works better. New u-joints will come with customary snap ring type retainers.
Good Luck!
Jim
It was making a lot of clunking noises. Not too long after the t-case fell apart inside. This was all about 100K.
You might want to check out a few of the performance driveshaft companies for a HD style u-joint.
You do know the o.e. u-joint retainers have to be burned out or chiseled out.
I've seen that the torch works better. New u-joints will come with customary snap ring type retainers.
Good Luck!
Jim
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not to steal the thread but, instead of a carrier bearing, is it possible to use a slip-yoke? if so, what are the draw backs? im pretty sure the yoke is stronger than the bearing
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
You kidding me? Nothing is easy any more!!! Can you or someone else give me the run down on replacing one of these things? im assuming the caps in the driveshaft need heated out? This sux. BTW, was your bro's front shaft clunking while in 4x4 or just 2 wheel?-Thanks.
One of my friends that is a mechanic, changed his u-joints. He used a torch. The retainers that GM uses from the factory are nylon molded in retainers. They come out with acetylene torch heat, no need to use the oxygen.
You just need to melt them out. Then clean it up with a knife or a steel pick.
The new ones will go back in like they use to when metal c-clips were used in the past. The molded nylon retainers are actually a good idea because it keeps the dirt out. The disadvantage is, you can't gease them.
The new u-joints will be greaseable, but dirt can still get in them. That's why keeping up on greasing them is recommended.
My friend replaced all 4 of his u-joints.
Jim
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Originally Posted by Soon2bSpooled
not to steal the thread but, instead of a carrier bearing, is it possible to use a slip-yoke? if so, what are the draw backs? im pretty sure the yoke is stronger than the bearing
Jim
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#8
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Yep, front always spins.
Get a set spicer 1350 u-joints. You'll be golden.
Either front or rear, unless you have a press, I'd suggest taking the shaft and joints to driveline shop and having them do it. Not that it is rocket science or anything, but they can balance for you as well. Balancing is worth the money!
Get a set spicer 1350 u-joints. You'll be golden.
Either front or rear, unless you have a press, I'd suggest taking the shaft and joints to driveline shop and having them do it. Not that it is rocket science or anything, but they can balance for you as well. Balancing is worth the money!
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Originally Posted by stone150
i am sure my clunking is my splip yolk bec i had one rear u jpint replaced and it still clunks
The excessive tolerances in the yoke section of the tranny are were the clunking derives from. I'm no tranny specialist, so I have no idea what would fix it.
Ask the guys from FLT or another good trans shop about the yoke section.
Jim