We've been throwing around a few ideas around here and need some advice
04-02-2005, 01:47 PM
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We've been throwing around a few ideas around here and need some advice
Ok, we've been watching vid after vid of hard launching trucks we had downloaded, and we can't decide which is actually better.
We were always under the impression that the best launches were when you got a nice weight transfer and dipping motion in the *** end.
Then, upon further investigation, it seems some of the faster trucks here not getting the dipping motion, just taking off. So, which do you guys think is truly better?
Also, question here. Hopefully, I'll be the proud owner of some new caltrac bars in the next few weeks. We were doing some brainstorming last night(I know...very dangerous), and was throwing some ideas around about how to get a nice hard launch. Since the truck hauls absolutely nothing, would it be benefitial at all to remove the overload springs in hopes of a softer rear leaf spring setup? It just seems that the rear end would dip alittle easier without them. Could you compensate the ride quality of removing them with going with a better rear shock, such as a QA1? Just set the firmness more stiff for everyday driving, then adjust it down for the track?
Finally, would it make preloading the caltracs easier with the overloads removed, or would it be any difference there?
These questions could be completely stupid, but you know how us guys think when we've been painting a room, drinking cold beer, and talking about making trucks go faster.
We were always under the impression that the best launches were when you got a nice weight transfer and dipping motion in the *** end.
Then, upon further investigation, it seems some of the faster trucks here not getting the dipping motion, just taking off. So, which do you guys think is truly better?
Also, question here. Hopefully, I'll be the proud owner of some new caltrac bars in the next few weeks. We were doing some brainstorming last night(I know...very dangerous), and was throwing some ideas around about how to get a nice hard launch. Since the truck hauls absolutely nothing, would it be benefitial at all to remove the overload springs in hopes of a softer rear leaf spring setup? It just seems that the rear end would dip alittle easier without them. Could you compensate the ride quality of removing them with going with a better rear shock, such as a QA1? Just set the firmness more stiff for everyday driving, then adjust it down for the track?
Finally, would it make preloading the caltracs easier with the overloads removed, or would it be any difference there?
These questions could be completely stupid, but you know how us guys think when we've been painting a room, drinking cold beer, and talking about making trucks go faster.
04-02-2005, 01:50 PM
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i see where your thinking is. i wouldn't see why it would hurt anything. after all they are called overload springs for a reason right. for overloading the truck. i say take them out and see how it does. if it doesn't do right then pop'em back in. yea, a pita but it can be done. also, i think i would look for some qa1's for up front and set them to allow max travel when you are at the track.
someone said amy rose used lightning qa1's. might want to double check that. but if thats the case, modify them to fit and bam.
someone said amy rose used lightning qa1's. might want to double check that. but if thats the case, modify them to fit and bam.
04-02-2005, 02:08 PM
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I think the best looking launches are wheels up. That's the only way. Hangin' the hoops! 
Taking the overload off might make setting the preload easier, but I'm not sure how it will actually work. It won't make it "squat" anymore, because caltrac vehicles don't do that. If you go to their website and look in the gallery, none of those cars squat. The design of the bars doesn't allow it, because its essentially pushing the tires into the pavement. The car actually lifts up, and its kinda cool feeling.
Taking the overload off might make setting the preload easier, but I'm not sure how it will actually work. It won't make it "squat" anymore, because caltrac vehicles don't do that. If you go to their website and look in the gallery, none of those cars squat. The design of the bars doesn't allow it, because its essentially pushing the tires into the pavement. The car actually lifts up, and its kinda cool feeling.
04-02-2005, 02:12 PM
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Ya I have been wondering about overload spring idea too. I have cal-tracs on my truck and love them. I pulled 1.7 60' with my et streets spinning on the rim
so i guess they were working. I was thinking that if i put shocks in the front that would make it jump up quicker and faster. That way it would help move the weight to the rear. just a thought.
so i guess they were working. I was thinking that if i put shocks in the front that would make it jump up quicker and faster. That way it would help move the weight to the rear. just a thought.
04-02-2005, 02:19 PM
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I wonder if anyone makes or can make a higher rate spring for the front of our trucks. I had 90/10's in my car, and the front end definatley "jumped". But when I put the drag springs in, it really got the front to lift. 
The only difference in the springs is that the drag spring is a smaller dia. wire and there are more turns. It makes driving on the street interesting too.
The only difference in the springs is that the drag spring is a smaller dia. wire and there are more turns. It makes driving on the street interesting too.
04-03-2005, 12:34 AM
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it might cause it to bounce off the bump stops + spin
its not too much room there anyways unless you gotta notch
I took the overload leafs off a 81 chevy luv and bottomed it out
Id leave it alone
its not too much room there anyways unless you gotta notch
I took the overload leafs off a 81 chevy luv and bottomed it out
Id leave it alone
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04-03-2005, 01:04 AM
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I don't think making the rear squat more is going to really help.
IMO I think that allowing the front to lift easier will shift enough weight towards the rear of the truck to plant the tires properly. Keeping a 50/50 style shock in the rear is a nice medium so you don't squat too much which accomplishes nothing besides wasted power.. Remember that it takes HP to lift and shift the weight of the truck. The less you can shift weight and still hook the faster you'll leave the line.
That's why I'm gonna try a set of QA1 Drag Shocks up front and set bewteen a 70/30 or 90/10 and a regular shock in the rear. CalTracs and some real slicks. It's a simple setup and works on a lot of fast "street cars" running well into the 9s and better. An adjustable shock on the passanger side rear may be of use if you can set it stiffer since we don't have coil springs and setting up and airbag is kinda tough.
Another idea is maybe using a much stiffer rear sway bar to keep the rear of the truck more level and less likely to unload the drivers side rear tire. On my Mustang we used a TRZ or Wolfecraft type sway bar that mounted directly to the rear axle housing and upper body of the car. This kept the rear axle from "dipping" on the passanger side due to body twist.
Just ideas.
IMO I think that allowing the front to lift easier will shift enough weight towards the rear of the truck to plant the tires properly. Keeping a 50/50 style shock in the rear is a nice medium so you don't squat too much which accomplishes nothing besides wasted power.. Remember that it takes HP to lift and shift the weight of the truck. The less you can shift weight and still hook the faster you'll leave the line.
That's why I'm gonna try a set of QA1 Drag Shocks up front and set bewteen a 70/30 or 90/10 and a regular shock in the rear. CalTracs and some real slicks. It's a simple setup and works on a lot of fast "street cars" running well into the 9s and better. An adjustable shock on the passanger side rear may be of use if you can set it stiffer since we don't have coil springs and setting up and airbag is kinda tough.
Another idea is maybe using a much stiffer rear sway bar to keep the rear of the truck more level and less likely to unload the drivers side rear tire. On my Mustang we used a TRZ or Wolfecraft type sway bar that mounted directly to the rear axle housing and upper body of the car. This kept the rear axle from "dipping" on the passanger side due to body twist.
Just ideas.
04-03-2005, 09:14 PM
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For 2wd's you want all of the weight shifting to the back on launch. Optimally your front tires would be a centimeter off the ground so you arn't wasting any HP lifting the truck, and at the same time have 100% of your weight working for traction. AWD is different because you can use weight over the front to your advantege. You guys every watch tractor pulls? Weight transfer is all the commentators talk about. You can learn alot just watching.
