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Yank and trans removal questions

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Old 03-13-2009, 01:30 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Atomic
Could you elaborate on ball and joint?
Notice how the exhaust conjoins and then is bolted together. It's a much better seal than butting them up and putting a gasket between them.

Old 03-13-2009, 01:41 AM
  #12  
I have a gauge for that
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Ah, I see, very nice.

So I am thinking that I could have a 3" female socket welded on to each header collector, then have the y pipe cut and shorted and 3" ball sockets welded onto the ends so they match up to the headers. I notice alot of guys on LS1 tech used the flowmaster merge pipe because it is a much better design than the pacesetter. So I may have that put on other end of the two pipes from the headers, and another ball and socket joint on the end of the merger pipe connecting to my main exhaust (3")

So basically I would have 3 ball and socket joints- 2 on the headers, 1 after the y pipe. This way I could remove that section of exhaust with just a few bolts instead of having to cut the pipes over and over.
Old 03-13-2009, 01:45 AM
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yup. thats why I did it too. makes life easier. And as stated, shouldn't cost much to have it done. Well.. Depending on where you go.
Old 03-13-2009, 01:49 AM
  #14  
I have a gauge for that
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I am looking around and the flowmaster pipe is about $45, but I am having trouble finding both male and female ball and socket joints.

Hoping I can keep this under $200 with labor included.
Old 03-13-2009, 01:50 AM
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Flowmaster sells 2 for $100 I believe. And a slip fit is fine on the Y pipe. Just be sure to use a high quality stepped band clamp. I like Torco.
Old 03-13-2009, 01:57 AM
  #16  
I have a gauge for that
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Is slip fit on the Y acceptable because of the lower velocity since its further downstream?

haha, I just realized it would be impossible to take off if all 3 were ball and socket since you have to pull it out which wouldnt be possible...

Last edited by Atomic; 03-13-2009 at 02:02 AM.
Old 03-13-2009, 02:04 AM
  #17  
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There are 2 reasons I prefer ball and socket joints for the header to y pipe

1) they don't leak
2) It makes removal and assembly a piece of cake. To put slip fit headers in you can't have the headers tightened all the way, you gotta have them wiggly so you can get the Y pipe on. And removing you have to do the same thing.

As far as the Y pipe, you don't have this problem with assembly or disassembly. The pipes can go together and come apart fairly easily. The biggest problem with slip fits is that the pipes don't fit together well. If the OD and ID pipes are snug then they will seal outstanding. A band clamp is just icing on the cake. That's the way it's supposed to work. I've had several Y pipes come in crushed up and never fit great and made them harder to install and seal.
Old 03-13-2009, 02:43 AM
  #18  
I have a gauge for that
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After some shopping, jegs has the ball and socket joints for $90, http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389/15930/10001/-1

the flowmaster collector for $46, http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389/Y300350/10001/-1

now my question is, since my exhaust pipe 3", and the above collector has a 3.5" output, would this lap joint clamp work for me?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/33273/10002/-1

Last edited by Atomic; 03-13-2009 at 02:53 AM.
Old 03-13-2009, 02:45 AM
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You've got the wrong link there for the collector. Is your catback 3"?
Old 03-13-2009, 02:53 AM
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linked fixed, http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389/Y300350/10001/-1

The pipe after my current collector is 3", yes.

I am assuming since I have 3" pipe and standard wall is .25", then a 3" pipe will fit inside a 3.5" pipe snuggly, and the lap joint band clamp will be perfect.


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