Yank and trans removal questions
03-13-2009, 03:01 AM
#22
hmmm
In that case I need to get a reducer for the collector from 3.5" to 3" since they dont make a collector with 3" in 3" out. > http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/41980/10002/-1
Also I would need to use a straight 3" band clamp instead of the lap joint one, right? > http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/33278/10001/-1
In that case I need to get a reducer for the collector from 3.5" to 3" since they dont make a collector with 3" in 3" out. > http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/41980/10002/-1
Also I would need to use a straight 3" band clamp instead of the lap joint one, right? > http://www.jegs.com/i/Dynomax/289/33278/10001/-1
Last edited by Atomic; 03-13-2009 at 03:07 AM.
03-13-2009, 03:36 AM
#23
What you need is a Torctite stepped band clamp. That is the best clamp you can buy.
Another option, which is a the best one IMO, is just to have your catback expanded in a pipe expander where it meets up with the merge collector. And then use this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-5-S...Q5fAccessories
Another option, which is a the best one IMO, is just to have your catback expanded in a pipe expander where it meets up with the merge collector. And then use this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-5-S...Q5fAccessories
03-13-2009, 09:45 AM
#24
Wouldnt I need a staight band clamp if I have the catback pipe expanded? The one you posted is a lap joint type...
I was trying to avoid having to cut the catback pipe off then rewelded back on after being expanded, but it does seem like the best way.
I was trying to avoid having to cut the catback pipe off then rewelded back on after being expanded, but it does seem like the best way.
03-13-2009, 11:41 AM
#25
no.
Expand the catback end so that it's a slip fit joint. The catback will be the ID pipe...slightly smaller than 3.5". Then used the stepped band clamp I posted in the link. I'm not sure what you're talking about welding. Nothing should be welded in your exhaust.
Expand the catback end so that it's a slip fit joint. The catback will be the ID pipe...slightly smaller than 3.5". Then used the stepped band clamp I posted in the link. I'm not sure what you're talking about welding. Nothing should be welded in your exhaust.
03-13-2009, 12:10 PM
#26
I guess I am getting confused.
The collector is 3.5", my current pipe is 3". So I need to get the stepped band clamp and have the pipe expanded sightly...with the pipe actually fit inside the collector for the slip joint or just a butt connection with the clamp holding it in place?
Everything on my exhaust is welded right now.
The collector is 3.5", my current pipe is 3". So I need to get the stepped band clamp and have the pipe expanded sightly...with the pipe actually fit inside the collector for the slip joint or just a butt connection with the clamp holding it in place?
Everything on my exhaust is welded right now.
03-13-2009, 12:23 PM
#27
It's slip fit. The catback pipe will slide inside of the collector. Actually, the proper way to do it is to have the collector as the inner diameter pipe. This should lead to less likely hood of a leak. And then you use the stepped band clamp over that. Nothing in your exhaust should be welded because then how would you ever remove it if you need to? You'd have to drop your crossmember and it would be a big pain in the ***.
03-13-2009, 12:46 PM
#28
Thats what got me into this predicament in the first place; having to cut the exhaust to remove the trans. I was under the impression its always better to have it welded as opposed to clamped so it wont leak anywhere.
Having the collector fit into the pipe would mean I need to expand a 3" pipe to over 3.5"....sounds a bit too much or is that fine?
Having the collector fit into the pipe would mean I need to expand a 3" pipe to over 3.5"....sounds a bit too much or is that fine?
03-13-2009, 12:52 PM
#29
It should be okay.
What I've been saying over and over....the OD and ID pipes need to slip over each other precisely! If they fit snugly there will be no leaks. I guarantee you this. Additionally, you can wrap some aluminum foil around the joint and then put the band clamp over that to act like a gasket. It's a cool tip I learned from a member here. But anyways, good tight joints is the key. Mine are very snug and don't leak even with no clamp on.
What I've been saying over and over....the OD and ID pipes need to slip over each other precisely! If they fit snugly there will be no leaks. I guarantee you this. Additionally, you can wrap some aluminum foil around the joint and then put the band clamp over that to act like a gasket. It's a cool tip I learned from a member here. But anyways, good tight joints is the key. Mine are very snug and don't leak even with no clamp on.
03-13-2009, 01:24 PM
#30
Alrighty, sounds good. I have the ball and socket joints, collector, and clamp on order. Plus this is a great time to have the shop weld a 3.5" downpipe to a 3.5" flange for my cutout.
Thanks for all your help.
Thanks for all your help.
Last edited by Atomic; 03-13-2009 at 10:58 PM.