160 therm any good or do you...
03-20-2007, 07:33 PM
#21
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Yea, you can dial your e-fans to come on at anytime you want, but it isn't gonna cool any more than they would on the stock setting without a cooler stat in place. The only thing your gonna do is tax your charging system more.
A thermostat only allows coolant to flow to the radiator if it has reached the stats opening temp, so if you have a stock 190 stat, not much coolant is gonna be circulating through the rad until it is actually 190 degrees, your fans can run all they want, cool that fluid thats sitting in the rad, for what, the stat might have to flow a little less before its happy and shuts again, thats all, they're not gonna cool the motor really anymore than 190 with that setup. Obviously this is how we can drive at 60+miles an hour into -40F ambient air temps and have our engine jacket water maintained at operating temp.
You need both. I'm not calling people liars that see cooler temps here and there, but the only way you will see cooler engine temps with a cooler stat alone like some of you guys are, is if the ambient temperature is cold enough, and your rad is efficient enough with the air moving past it that it actually cools the fluid enough thats flowing from the opened stat before it re-enters the engine. Otherwise with a 'cold' stat, summer heat, no programming with e-fans, and baggin it around the city from stop light to stop light, of course your not gonna see a whole bunch cooler engine temps.
Another factor people gotta figure in is the plain and simple fact of how efficient their cooling system is to begin with, how big is the rad core, how much do your e-fans flow, waterpump etc. without the entire system working together, its a waste of time to try and do this mod and expect reliable constant change. Then maybe after you do actually achieve a cooler engine temp your going to need to tune the engine to take any real advantage of it, unless your sitting with present problems, like detonation under boost as also stated b4. Like its been said, how many people do you know running a 160 stat actually run 160 degree engine temps, well there's the reason why.
Read budhayes3 post, he has a 160 stat which should have him flowing at of course around 160 degrees, but he has the fan setup to match, and he doesn't try to go to low (175-79 i personally wouldn't want to see my engine run any lower), plus he's got some tuning.
My only question for ya is what are your winter temps like? and do you see your temps fall closer to your stat range if it is really cold, especially cruising at highway speed? If they don't fall to 160 in this situation this would most likely dictate that the stock cooling system is working as well as it can at these temps without the help of fans, or else the stat doesn't actually open at 160 as claimed.
Anyways, i guess the moral or conclusion of this particular post is, don't expect much doin one or the other, but if you do them both in the right fashion, you can most likely make some gains in the performance department, and maybe help your engine and trans out a little too, but don't go too far, or you will do the opposite.
A thermostat only allows coolant to flow to the radiator if it has reached the stats opening temp, so if you have a stock 190 stat, not much coolant is gonna be circulating through the rad until it is actually 190 degrees, your fans can run all they want, cool that fluid thats sitting in the rad, for what, the stat might have to flow a little less before its happy and shuts again, thats all, they're not gonna cool the motor really anymore than 190 with that setup. Obviously this is how we can drive at 60+miles an hour into -40F ambient air temps and have our engine jacket water maintained at operating temp.
You need both. I'm not calling people liars that see cooler temps here and there, but the only way you will see cooler engine temps with a cooler stat alone like some of you guys are, is if the ambient temperature is cold enough, and your rad is efficient enough with the air moving past it that it actually cools the fluid enough thats flowing from the opened stat before it re-enters the engine. Otherwise with a 'cold' stat, summer heat, no programming with e-fans, and baggin it around the city from stop light to stop light, of course your not gonna see a whole bunch cooler engine temps.
Another factor people gotta figure in is the plain and simple fact of how efficient their cooling system is to begin with, how big is the rad core, how much do your e-fans flow, waterpump etc. without the entire system working together, its a waste of time to try and do this mod and expect reliable constant change. Then maybe after you do actually achieve a cooler engine temp your going to need to tune the engine to take any real advantage of it, unless your sitting with present problems, like detonation under boost as also stated b4. Like its been said, how many people do you know running a 160 stat actually run 160 degree engine temps, well there's the reason why.
Read budhayes3 post, he has a 160 stat which should have him flowing at of course around 160 degrees, but he has the fan setup to match, and he doesn't try to go to low (175-79 i personally wouldn't want to see my engine run any lower), plus he's got some tuning.
My only question for ya is what are your winter temps like? and do you see your temps fall closer to your stat range if it is really cold, especially cruising at highway speed? If they don't fall to 160 in this situation this would most likely dictate that the stock cooling system is working as well as it can at these temps without the help of fans, or else the stat doesn't actually open at 160 as claimed.
Anyways, i guess the moral or conclusion of this particular post is, don't expect much doin one or the other, but if you do them both in the right fashion, you can most likely make some gains in the performance department, and maybe help your engine and trans out a little too, but don't go too far, or you will do the opposite.
03-20-2007, 08:46 PM
#23
Launching!
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Originally Posted by ricoc
If your 160 stat opens and your engine runs anywhere different than 160 your cooling system isn't doing a good job
the advertised temp of a thermostat is the temp at which it opens. your cooling system does the rest. the stock thermo is like 195 and most still run at 205-210.
03-20-2007, 09:08 PM
#24
Originally Posted by l_kusler
Read budhayes3 post, he has a 160 stat which should have him flowing at of course around 160 degrees, but he has the fan setup to match, and he doesn't try to go to low (175-79 i personally wouldn't want to see my engine run any lower), plus he's got some tuning.
My only question for ya is what are your winter temps like? and do you see your temps fall closer to your stat range if it is really cold, especially cruising at highway speed? If they don't fall to 160 in this situation this would most likely dictate that the stock cooling system is working as well as it can at these temps without the help of fans, or else the stat doesn't actually open at 160 as claimed.
My only question for ya is what are your winter temps like? and do you see your temps fall closer to your stat range if it is really cold, especially cruising at highway speed? If they don't fall to 160 in this situation this would most likely dictate that the stock cooling system is working as well as it can at these temps without the help of fans, or else the stat doesn't actually open at 160 as claimed.
). FWIW, I'm using the larger 34" radiator also 
03-21-2007, 01:34 PM
#27
Originally Posted by DLH2006
BTW i hope you guys saying that your truck stays at XXX temp are not going off your instrument cluster engine temp gauge, if ya are those things suck and most arent accurate.
As you mentioned, the factory guage is a joke...if you watch one as it climbs, you'll notice that it actually goes up in steps...
03-21-2007, 01:43 PM
#28
Staging Lane
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i had a 160 in my truck and it seemed to run right at 180 like the others were saying....but i do have a V8 in a S-10 so cooling will be different......i switched to a 195 stock Tstat and now i run at 197-199 in traffic it hit around 203-205, but the E-fans keep it at 194-197 once they kick on
edit: i'm going by my scan guage
edit: i'm going by my scan guage
Last edited by VortecBlazer; 03-21-2007 at 01:53 PM.
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