MarineBlue03GMC

Hey Chingon I forgot you had the 160!?

Anyway I think the Diablo tuner is already programmed to run with the 160 thermo but im not sure. Does anyone know about his being pretuned in with the diablo?

The thermo came free with my diablo purchase from tbyrne. I wonder if I should be running the thermo?

I tried advancing the spark at the dyno and there was no power gain. so I wonder if there would be with a power gain with the thermo and a spark advance.

Chingon

iTrader: (1)

Well, I know you shouldn't advance the timing without a cooler t-stat. Did you get any pinging? I would imagine you getting detonation from it getting too hot in there.

MarineBlue03GMC

yea the guy at MMS said he thought he heard some mild pinging. I am still skeptical about advancing the timing. I couldnt imagine it actually making a significant amount of power. If anyone can prove me wrong with dyno results then cool.

Still I guess its possible that advancing the timing WITH a 160 thermo would have given me dyno hp/tq gains. I do know that without it I didnt see any.

JWRENCH

I'm running a 180 t-stat and I've set my Predator up for %5 more timing over the basic program with no pinging so far. I also have a 160 sitting here in the box (came free with Predator) but I honestly think these engines run better when they're warmed up so I'm not changing. Plus if you drive short trips very often it's very bad for the oil cause it leaves all the moisture in the engine which turns acidic.

When I drained mine I used the little tube on the drivers side of the radiator and ran it into two gallon water jugs under the truck.

Also if you do change it out at least use distilled water so you don't get all the minerals, chlorine, fluoride, and all that junk in there, and mix it close to 50/50 with the orange stuff.

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

Dude do it. The more heat in your engine the less timing you can throw at it before it detonates. Apparently the WOT timing can only be advanced by using an aftermarket programmer, so I would think you would feel a nice gain. Also try some 93 octane gas and throw a little more timing. It is worth a try if you have a good hookup at a dyno place.

hodgeee

My truck runs great with the 160 stat, and my average coolant temps monitored by the Predator went from 205 to 180 here in Vegas, and it has been about 105 to 110 everyday for the last 3 weeks. It got to 116 degrees for 3 days in a row also, and it still ran at 180degrees.

Ok, the email I got from DiabloSport says that the Predator tells the computer to ignore the coolant temperature programming. Due to this, the Reduced Power setting which the truck is supposed to have is ignored and becomes unfunctional in some vehicles, and it will be displayed on the driver control when installing custom tuning. Thats where the vehicle runs like a 4 cyclinder when you loose coolant or the water pump goes. This may also cause a rough idle or warmup of the vehicle when first started in the day.

Now I noticed that since installing the programming, that my truck runs ruff for about 2 miles or 5 minutes when I first start it in the mornings. This is why I emailed DiabloSport. Whenever I have had a question, my emails were answered promptly each time. Also when I installed my programming, I got this message, "Reduced Power Setting ........ Disabled ....." Now they said, "The Predator programmer works with the OBDII monitoring system of the vehicle and through 16 different constant monitoring stations, the Predator is compatible with limited aftermarket upgrades(ie. headers, intake, exhaust), and is self adjusting to enhance your driving experience. A minimum of 91 octane must be used to ensure the correct operation of the vehicle, and timing is automatically controlled from air to fuel ratio readings, thus giving greater performance to a peak of using 93 octane or better." Didn't know that Our trucks did that!

This email was signed by a RJ Butler. I was using 91 octane but was getting Knock, and the knock sensor was detuning my timing by up to 10 degrees. Now this only happened when running the AC on full blast during the day, and going up hills or under load(Vegas Days 105+). I started adding octane boost to get a full 93 octane with the programmer, and man, I felt a big power gain. I then later ran a half tank of 100 octane gas, with half of 91 octane, so about 95 to 96 octane in my tank, and it ran even stronger, got rid of the ruff idle in the morning, and no more knocking at all, even pulling a 3000lb trailer with a 250lb passenger, and AC on full blast.

What I am getting at, is like they said to me, that it self adjusts to the mods and gas you use. If you have been running low octane and no thermostate, I think you will get a nice gain, with them. A cooler motor makes more power, and will keep the rings living longer in the motor

MarineBlue03GMC

Damn Hodgee what an answer! You are the man!

I had a feeling my trucks cpu along with the predator tune was doing something to constantly adapt the air/fuel ratio, ignition, etc. to mods. So far no matter what temperature, mods, etc., my truck seems to respond well. My dyno tunes showed a really nice air/fuel ratio even with my mods and I have never adjusted anything, except for the basic diablo tune, and some other non fuel/spark tweaks.

Anyway I guess I am convinced and plan to install the 160 thermo.

So hodgee from what you are saying, I dont can just put in the 160 thermo and thats it. I wont need to make any adjustments on my diablo?

Thanks to all for the helpful posts! I am always amazied at how COOL this forum is, with all of the helpful posters/members!

WE all definitely need to get a truck meet together, westcoast AND eastcoast!

hodgeee

Yeah man, throw that thing in there. IF your vehicle only has a couple thousand miles, than you can reuse your coolant. I wouldn't bother though, just buy some new coolant. Get the premixed to 50/50 that they sell. I added a bottle of water wetter for the hell of it. I had to use almost 2 full gallons to replenish the system. I had drained the radiator from the drain hole, and then removed the thermo housing.

Just remove the thermo housing cause, still about half a gallon came pouring out even after draining the radiator. Then just make sure you hose down the radiator fluid down, since it is sweet, and dogs and cats will drink it to their demise! Just make the bolts snug, if you try to get them real tight you will strip the holes. That bracket is soft aluminum, and can only take about 7 to 8lbs of torque, just a gently tightness or firmness. I used a dabb of silicone to hold the rubber gasket in place on the thermo when installing. Once you got the thermo installed, disconnect the top radiator hose, and fill the new coolant in that hose, until you see the fluid level rise in the reservous tank to its "cold full" mark. Then reconnect the hose quickly and then burp your motor. This little tip will help get the air bubbles out of the motor better without having to really burb the motor as much. When pooring into the top hose, the water will come to the top of the hose, just hold the hose up high in the air, and then it will bubble into the motor. The directions will tell you to just fill from the reservous, and then keep checking it over and over, and adding over and over. If you do it my way, it will take you maybe one or two more times topping off the system, over a two day period. IF you do it the other way, like my friend did, he had to add water daily for about a week before it settled to its regular level.