Is 2 degrees of knock retard bad? parish, allen?
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Is 2 degrees of knock retard bad? parish, allen?
Well, for those who have not followed my radix problems, see this thread :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=160260&page=2
UPDATE:
I got the blower back yesterday and got it on today, magnacharger said no problem found (except for the broken stuff from ups)
IAT is perfect now. Up to 130 mph (somewhat guessing, it was pegged out for a long time) I got up to 135 degrees Intake air temp, where before it would be 160 before 100 mph. So something is better.
They replaced the nose because they say they cannot reuse them once they have been torn down. The weird thing is that the blower works better now.
I still need to dyno the truck, cause I didn't notice a big diff in power, but on the datalogs timing stays at 16.5 degres advanced all the way until when I got over 100mph I started to get from .1 - 2.1 degrees of knock retard. Is this normal? something to worry about?
I think I am going to get a nelson tune for it to scavange some more power. I should have a set of pacesetter headers ($150 new in black finish) in on friday, and they are getting sent to be high temp powdercoated (free) Do you guys think this will make a noticeable difference?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...=160260&page=2
UPDATE:
I got the blower back yesterday and got it on today, magnacharger said no problem found (except for the broken stuff from ups)
IAT is perfect now. Up to 130 mph (somewhat guessing, it was pegged out for a long time) I got up to 135 degrees Intake air temp, where before it would be 160 before 100 mph. So something is better.
They replaced the nose because they say they cannot reuse them once they have been torn down. The weird thing is that the blower works better now.
I still need to dyno the truck, cause I didn't notice a big diff in power, but on the datalogs timing stays at 16.5 degres advanced all the way until when I got over 100mph I started to get from .1 - 2.1 degrees of knock retard. Is this normal? something to worry about?
I think I am going to get a nelson tune for it to scavange some more power. I should have a set of pacesetter headers ($150 new in black finish) in on friday, and they are getting sent to be high temp powdercoated (free) Do you guys think this will make a noticeable difference?
#2
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to me there are 2 kinds of KR, the first kind i dont worry about even if it is higher than 2deg. knock retard on the launch or at the shift is ok if it is decreasing afterwards.
the kind i worry about is when it comes on mid gear, then it starts to taper but comes back again. if you are seeing that then it is probaly real knock. any time i have actualy heard the knock it looked like what i just described. here is a screen shot of the type of knock i would worry about.
dont worry about the first incident before i even went to WOT, that is probably some kind of driveline problem, it is the mid gear knock that is bad.
the kind i worry about is when it comes on mid gear, then it starts to taper but comes back again. if you are seeing that then it is probaly real knock. any time i have actualy heard the knock it looked like what i just described. here is a screen shot of the type of knock i would worry about.
dont worry about the first incident before i even went to WOT, that is probably some kind of driveline problem, it is the mid gear knock that is bad.
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If the knock is coming on and holding steady, then yes, I'd worry about it, if it just spikes and goes back down like at the end of that log Parish showed where the green line almost touches the yellow, then I wouldn't worry about it. If it's holding steady, I would try changing plugs at first. That MIGHT get rid of it.
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Mine started at the top of the gear. I will try and post the logs later. It was pretty steady though. I have NGK TR6 plugs in there already, any other ideas?? I run 91 octane gas (about the best around in OK unfortunately, even though it is 2.05 a gallon.
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Originally Posted by retsell
Mine started at the top of the gear. I will try and post the logs later. It was pretty steady though. I have NGK TR6 plugs in there already, any other ideas?? I run 91 octane gas (about the best around in OK unfortunately, even though it is 2.05 a gallon.
Glad to hear the temp thing is worked out. Hopefully the dyno is better this time. I think the difference between 160 and 130 degrees in the timing table is around 8-10 degrees of advance. That alone should make a big difference.
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