00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Take the heads to a machine shop and have the surfaces checked and check the valves for any bent valves or leaking. If you can swing it have a valve job done like a 3 or 5 angle it helps quite a bit. A bowl blend helps a ton too and isn't very expensive.

I would go with the slightly larger cam (the tsp stg 3) being that it's a 6.0 and those cams listed are typically specd for good low end power with a 5.3... your 6.0 can eat up more duration with ease.
That and you need to watch out for your dynamic compression to be able to run on 87 and not knock, the smaller cam you posted has an intake valve closing point 3 degrees earlier and that may be enough to keep you from running 87 octane. I don't know it would need to be run in a dynamic compression calculator. You want high dynamic compression for crisp throttle response, great low end torque and fuel mileage but gotta be careful in that area and not go too high either. But neither of those cams are in danger of being too low on DCR for you to have good low end and mpg.

I would talk with the Summit Racing tech line, they make excellent cams and whoever their guy is on LS1tech really knows his stuff, sometimes it's easier to get detailed info over a chat than over the phone.. Texas speed and BTR do also, but wouldn't hurt to get a little more information from another trusty source. Plus their cams are only $289 vs $399. Ask whomever you talk to next about dynamic compression with your setup and the fuel you want to run.

And I would for sure go with a 600 lift cam over the 550 liftf, texas speed posted dyno graphs of their truck cams in 550 lift and 600 lift. They tested the same exact sizes against each other with the only difference being lift and the 600 lift cams picked up power everywhere in the rpm range over the 550 cams

And I would absolutely do a premium fuel tune, you can then run more timing which not only gives you more power everywhere but you also get more MPG out of it. When I went from a 87 to 93 tune in my 04 5.3 truck the additional mpg pretty much evened out the fuel cost.

I can't see where you would ever end up in a situation where only 87 is available, that would have to be a really odd series of events. If it happens cruise it gently to the next station with just enough 87 to get to the next station or pour some octane boost in there with the 87

dantheman1540

Great info Pooter! Gonna have to check out a dynamic compression calculator since I've got basically this exact setup.

Summitracing

Great info Pooter.

OP, we would recommend going with 706 heads to get the compression up. We would recommend sending them out to a good head machinist such as Total Engine Airflow (TEA). Have them do a bowl blend and competition valve job putting at least a 2.00 in. intake valve in. TEA has a stage 2 head option where they put a 2.040 in. Ferrea intake valve in.

For the camshaft, we would recommend our Summit Pro LS stage 2 high lift truck cam. That is part number SUM-8720. Specs are .600/.600, 218/227, 112+2. We offer this in a cam kit with springs, gaskets, seals, etc. to help with the install. That kit number is SUM-8720-2-BHV. You may get away with 87 octane when not towing, but you will want to see the logs to verify you aren’t getting knock. For doing any towing or heavy hauling you will want a 93 tune.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I like that recommendation for sure.

Wellarmedlamb

Sorry it took me so long to reply. I don't seem to be able to reply from my phone. I get a message that the post has to be approved by a Mod and it never gets posted.


Thanks Pooter and Summit!

I'll look into the suggested head work for sure!

Looks like the basic range of that cam is 2500rpm - 6500rpm. Considering my only concerns are daily driving (my commute rarely sees me over 2200rpms) as smooth and efficient as possible (95% of the time) and towing also as smooth and efficient as possible (5% of the time), could someone please educate me on why I don't want a cam that starts at or near idle for maximum low end torque? Not being facetious, actually looking to learn why what I was thinking is not right(or not most right). I'm not attached to any specific configuration. Just trying to have this all nailed down before I even start buying parts.

Separately, the truck is getting a transmission first. I'm fairly certain it will be a stage 2, 4L65E from Performabuilt (opinions or advice?). Spoke with Allan on the phone, seems like a good guy. I'm only a 2 hour drive from their shop. At Allan's suggestion, I'm researching torque converters. So far, my results are as follows:

-TCI: 2 messages no response.

-FTI: Responded promptly but after a handful of messages they feel I should stay close to stock stall speed and they don't make a converter to match my needs.

-Hughes: Responded promptly and Kevin feels that the GM22ELXTM would be perfect at 2000rpms ($500ish). He essentially made it sound like this TC is the magic bullet for all my needs. The problem is, I haven't been able to get actual specs on it. Ie; type of tcc, brazed or not, suggested HP, etc.

-Yank: Matt has been extremely helpful and responsive. He feels that their Pro Truck PT2800LS-MD is the ticket. @2800rpms ($1,250 - DAMN!) The 2800 stall concerns me but Matt says it "tighter" than others and won't feel sloppy. This TC definitely will handle anything I throw at it. The high rpms (and price) concern me, the non-expert that I am.

- CircleD and Precision Industries were recently also suggested to me so I'm going to contact them today.

I've been in high stall vehicles before and they have felt sloppy as a daily driver. I like the instant engagement feel of the factory rpm. Also, towing with a higher stall concerns me(although, Matt @ Yank says the TCC will be locked so much I don't need to worry about that).

Thoughts?

Nick99Chevy

I'm doing a similar LQ4 build. I got a Texas Speed Stage 3 truck cam, the range is 1400-6000 RPM, I think that fits my needs. I bought a Circle-D
3000 stall for my 4L80E also.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

You’ll typically see guys worried about HP numbers using the bigger cams that make power in higher RPM ranges. This isn’t very useful for daily driving or towing. For a daily driver you want off idle torque and power that carries to about 5k before dropping off. Useable RPM range is what your after, not peak HP at 6k+rpm. Call up a rep and talk with them personally about your intended use and normal driving style. What seems small and unimpressive numbers to some may fit your bill perfectly. I’ve seen vehicles that made a lot less up top HP rip the face off higher HP ones from a dig and stop light to stop light. Different strokes for different folks.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

I don't even know how they really come up with that range, but I know it isn't super specific or equally tested across all manufacturers and components. So I wouldn't get TOO caught up in that, use it as a basic guide but not as God's word.

This is just some laymans term stuff here I'm writing below. So guys don't destroy it because it isn't technical lol

The cam is also spec'd to be used in 4.8, 5.3, 5.7 and 6.0 engines. The cam is going to be making gobs more torque at 2500 in a 6.0 than it is in a 4.8
If the cam can work in a 4.8 with a stock stall, it will be making a lot of off idle torque in a 6.0

Keep in mind that stock cams in a 5.3 are only 191 degrees of duration and people go to 212 - 218 duration cams in those to keep low end power. 6.0's usually come with a cam that has 196 degrees intake duration. That's an increase of up to 27 degrees and that's the cam they choose to keep the low end. The 6.0 trucks had a 196 duration cam (lq9) and you're looking at a 218 degree cam, that's only an increase of 22 degrees. You aren't even stepping up as much in cam as guys with 5.3's

The reason I say that is duration is relative to cubes. The additional cubes will eat up the additional duration and perform like a smaller cam would in a smaller motor.

There are other factors to consider but since you're mainly thinking of duration right now I figured I would point that out first and make it a real basic description that has helped me in the past when judging cam size.

The LSA will affect low end power, and advance will too. The tighter LSA closes the intake valve sooner and so does advance in the cam which gives you more low end. That being said I would want a 111 or 112 cam with a little advance. The summit cam has that.


As for the converter. I would stick with Yank or Circle D personally. I would run away from TCI as fast as I could. You're gonna have to spend some good money to get a good converter. There are infinite threads of horror stories on here of guys that went with cheap converters. Just bypass the headache now and plan on spending somewhere in the neighborhood of 800 to 1000. 1200 is a bit much in my opinion. You wont regret buying a quality converter the first time, especially since you won't be rebuilding the trans a second time when the cheap converter takes a ****.

Summitracing

OP, thank you for further explaining how the truck will be used and what you're looking for. The manufacturer’s basic rpm range isn’t our favorite way to look at cams. Displacements differ. Good lobes that keep the valvetrain stable can widen the rpm range versus others that just fall off a cliff. Despite shorter duration @ .050.

We recommend using our Cam timing calculator to really compare between two manufacturers. Let’s compare our Stage 2 high lift (SUM-8720) to our Stage 1 mid-lift (SUM-8719)…then compare to our true Tow cam (SUM-8718)


Stage 2: 218/227 112 + 2…..Intake opening -1…so it has a pretty strong idle.

Stage 1: 209/217 112 + 1….Intake opening -6…so you would have to turn idle speed down to hear it much.

Tow Cam: 205/217 112 + 2…Intake opening -8…just a bit more relaxed idle even yet.



Stage 2 Intake closing 39. You’re trading a little off idle and low end <2500, but it soon matches around 3000. The torque curve shifts upwards and off to the right beginning by 3500 or so. This is what increases power and peak power.


Stage 1 Intake closing 36. This is actually close to a factory LQ9 cam by the time you factor in a lobe that is more aggressive off the seat. You could expect similar off-idle and it will climb from there due to everything else being better (lift and a small increase in overlap). While the lobes are more aggressive than stock, they are by no means harsh or even close to that.

Tow Cam Intake closing 33. This is designed for maximum off-idle (750 rpm) torque. The lobes carry well at high rpm, so while it peaks lower (5500 ish)…it won’t fall off a cliff higher than that.


With a good flowing top end, your best efficiency where you’re spending 95% of your time is using our Tow cam. If you want to hot rod it a bit, the Stage 1 is also a good choice. We’ve had reports of better mileage when towing. This is because the engine no longer has to shift down to pull up a grade. An engine spinning ½ the rpm uses ½ the air/fuel. We’d go with the .550 lift version of Stage 1 to get more air in it. The LS6 springs it’s compatible with have a little more pressure and will extend the power band.

smokinlmm

LMFAO at "factory rpm range" lol, that applies to basically no one here. Not talking ****, appreciate you taking your time to help out on here. That was just funny, most of us turn wayyyyy over factory recommendations, I don't think Honda recommends you spin there 4 cylinders as high as I take my 5.3.