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243 or 706 heads? (LQ4 + Torque Cam + TBSS Intake)

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Old 12-17-2019, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinlmm
LMFAO at "factory rpm range" lol, that applies to basically no one here. Not talking ****, appreciate you taking your time to help out on here. That was just funny, most of us turn wayyyyy over factory recommendations, I don't think Honda recommends you spin there 4 cylinders as high as I take my 5.3.
Doesn't apply to most but by what the OP is saying it applies to him
Old 12-18-2019, 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinlmm
LMFAO at "factory rpm range" lol, that applies to basically no one here. Not talking ****, appreciate you taking your time to help out on here. That was just funny, most of us turn wayyyyy over factory recommendations, I don't think Honda recommends you spin there 4 cylinders as high as I take my 5.3.
Yes, you are correct. We are referencing the Cam Manufacturer's recommended range. Even the smallest tow cam is good for 1000 rpm more than any factory cam. We do like seeing people going to the LS6 spring or upgrade Pac 918 spring like the TFS-16918-16. The bottom ends on these engines are good for 7500 and keeping the engine with max average horsepower through the gear split does wonders for acceleration.
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Old 12-19-2019, 03:32 PM
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Thanks Summit for returning and adding more info. I'm going to jump in here with my final Torque Converter options and ask for advice because it seems like this is going to play a role in cam selection.

Torque converter selection has been narrowed down to CircleD, Precision Industries, Hughes. Yank doesn't suggest any converters for my use that have a low enough stall. FTI doesn't have anything for my specific use at all, TCI never replied.

I'm going to post the basic info, possibly paraphrased, from the email info I received.

CircleD: Brian suggests their HP series 300mm with 1 year warranty, single clutch @ $600. "...flanged style impeller hub, bearing retainer, oversized bearing, some hand TIG welding internally and a larger woven carbon lockup clutch lining. Since towing is a priority for you, I would personally option this converter with the billet front cover upgrade. It's just $100, but would improve the strength of the lockup apply surface and get you a pinned stator for extra strength." This converter can be had in 1800 - 2000rpm or 2200 - 2400rpm. Brian personally suggests the slightly higher stall speed which he says will result in only slightly more heat and possibly 1-2mpg loss around town. CircleD also has their pro series with triple disc at nearly $1300 and the lowest stall is 2500 - 2700 so I'm not considering that.

Precision Industries: Jack suggests their 10.5" Vigilante with 5 year warranty, multi-disc @ $1,025. "You're right, you do not need a higher stall, I would suggest about a 2400 stall with our 10.5" Multi-Disc Vigilante. It will feel good and tight on take off whether you are towing or not. The reason I would suggest the Multi-Disc over the Single is just because of the weight of your vehicle and that you do tow with it."
4140 heat treated impeller and turbine hub, Fully furnace-brazed impeller and braced turbine, 2-Year free re-stall, 5-Year unconditional warranty, Forged and CNC machined front cover, Electronically balanced

Hughes: Suggests the GM22ELXTM. This runs about 2000rpms and around $500. The claim is that it will be perfect for my setup and use but they supplied me with no other info or specifics, which kind of concerns me.


It's more or less down to the CircleD or the Precision Industries. Unless someone sings praises for the hughes, I just dont get a good feeling about that choice.

Recap:
CircleD: 1 year warranty, 1800-2000 or 2200-2400, single but improved clutch disc and billet front cover(other improvements as listed above). $600
Precision Industries: 5 year warranty, 2400rpm, multi-disc, forged and machined front cover(other improvements as listed above). $1,025.

1. How do the 2 companies conmpare?
2. If they are of equal quality, is the precision industries unit worthwhile? I'm willing to spend that much if necessary but not if it really doesn't get me any improvements that are noticably in my current scenario. the 5 year warranty is nice though.
3. If the CircleD, 1800-2000 or 2200-2400. I'm leaning toward the higher choice for some reason.
Old 12-19-2019, 03:43 PM
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You can’t go wrong with either PI or CircleD.

I’ve had 3 CircleD converters and have loved them all.

Old 12-19-2019, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by madmann26
You can’t go wrong with either PI or CircleD.

I’ve had 3 CircleD converters and have loved them all.

Fully agree.


OP.. The lockup is super important especially for you with towing. However the stock one has been handling it and has for many other people.. so the Circle D should have at least as good as a lock up as the OE converter. But I would absolutely do the billet front cover and I would absolutely do the 2400 stall. My 2014 OE converter stalls around 2400 and I love it. And since it's a stock stall it feels stock and that 2400 would probably also. 2400 is a wimpy stall speed, it's not gonna feel loose and sloppy like you may be thinking, but it will make a big difference in acceleration and make the truck feel a lot more zippy/less lazy down low... makes it a lot of fun to drive.
Old 12-19-2019, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinlmm
LMFAO at "factory rpm range" lol, that applies to basically no one here. Not talking ****, appreciate you taking your time to help out on here. That was just funny, most of us turn wayyyyy over factory recommendations, I don't think Honda recommends you spin there 4 cylinders as high as I take my 5.3.
​​​​​​​Please read the first post to see the what the OP is looking for. Maybe you missed that part.

It's great that Summit is taking the time to explain the differences in detail and why they would choose one over the other and how the changes affect the valve events and how the engine will make torque. I for one, really appreciate the insight as I am sure the OP will too!
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Old 12-19-2019, 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeebalow
Please read the first post to see the what the OP is looking for. Maybe you missed that part.

It's great that Summit is taking the time to explain the differences in detail and why they would choose one over the other and how the changes affect the valve events and how the engine will make torque. I for one, really appreciate the insight as I am sure the OP will too!
Reread post, I clearly said what I thought and felt...
Old 12-19-2019, 06:59 PM
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PI was absolutely great to deal with in my case. When I wasn't happy with my 10.5 because I couldn't get it to stall what I wanted they took it back and sent me a brand new 9.5 triple. I since had it tightened on another build. Never any issues.
Old 12-19-2019, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 1994Vmax
Don't even bother with 243s... leave those to the people that somehow think they are a Corvette head only and pay stupid amounts of money.
if they have the hollow stem valves slightly longer valve they are corvette heads used on LS6 engines only (c5 zo6's) the high dollar money heads, when GM started using them on the 5.3 they was no longer hollow light weight valves and those you can get for less then $300, the reason guy are after the LS6 243's is in higher RPM's the valve train is more stable since the valves are lighter

i thought the 243's was more desirable for the larger intake Valve they offer 2.00 in over the 706's 1.89 in? i know the 706's might raise compression .5 over the 243's but even when gm put them on 5.3's HP was bumped up just from the head change i believe, 243's just plan flow better so why not use a better flowing head stock? are you confused with the 799 heads that are the same as 243's but just cast differently?


Old 12-19-2019, 08:00 PM
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double post sorry



Last edited by stroker87; 12-19-2019 at 08:35 PM.


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