We spoke alot about it. Went over the install too. He said that with a decent cam I would gain another 40-50 rwhp. It still seems low though. If you come up with something please let me know.

 

I was running a wester's pcm before i had my truck dyno tuned. Took it to Futral and he had no problem tuning over Lyndon's tune. My pcm wasnt locked You sure your was locked. Also, how much experiance does the dyno shop have with these 3rd gen engines and also tuning boosted applications. When futral fininshed tuning mine my timing was at 18 degrees with 8.5 psi and no KR. Somthing definatley seems wrong though, would expect around 300-320 rwhp from your setup.What spark plugs are you running?? Did you go with a colder plug and gap them at .035??

 

At 97 degrees you are losing about 25hp to heatsoak alone with no intercooler.

 

Somthing else i just thought of, those 20 inch kmc's in your sig. Are they heavy chrome plated 20's?? And what size tire is on them? If you dynoed with those they probably sucked up some hp also.

 

On my 99 truck, I made 293 rwhp (305 rwtq) with good bolt-ons and a LS6 cam. I then added a whipple, large injectors, and LS1 edit tuning. It made 305 rwhp (and 375 rwtq). Thats the same parts that made 293 AND the whipple to get 305. That makes a whopping 12 rwhp gain.

Needless to say, I pulled that thing 2 weeks later and sent it on its way via Ebay.

 

You might have to run the vehicle in open loop to get the A/F right. Go to the Closed Loop Temp Enable table and the the minimum temp at something that your vehicle will never reach. I had to do this on my truck. However, you will have to tune part throttle fuel also.
If your truck stays in Closed Loop it will try to keep the A/F at around 14.0, which is not good at all for FI. Some GM vehicles have this program, although I have no idea why.
Also, go to the MAPvsIAT table to dail in your timing. You will be able to add or withdrawn timing based on your Intake Air Temp. It might be the only thing keeping your motor together.
I would look into a intercooler also. In the summer after long runs my IAT would reach over 190 at 11lbs and this was with a huge intercooler.
Hope this helps. Good luck.

 

StupidFast Wow, that is great info!! Unfortunately I dont have the software or understanding to comprehend what you said. Im going to print it out and give it to the guy this weekend.
Ranwalk Ya, Im running heavy *** 20' KMC V2 with 285/50. The guy is very good. He had 2 C5's with mild heads and cams putting down 430rwhp. He also had at least 4 LS1's with various mods putting down great power. He can tune the PCM to read when the nitrous hits the MAF and retard timing accordingly somehow. This isnt all WOT only when nitrous hits the MAF. He can do this without a LS1 timing tuner.
Thanks for the ideas guys. The trucks feels alot faster and more powerfull, Im just really dissappointed in the #'s. It seems tha some seem to think they may be about right while others think they are off.
I can tell you that 02Denali was right about the PCM's being locked. Maybe Im just one of the unlucky one's that doesnt get the power that others get.

 

I still don't think it is right. Can you post up a pic of your dyno sheet?

 

I think the fact that it was 97 degrees + heatsoak + no intercooling (alky) has alot to do with it.

Post blower temps were probably 250+ degrees! Since air expands as it gets hotter, that means that 5.5psi doesn't have a whole lot of oxygen in it. With my truck, 50 degrees = about 40 hp according to my maf readings.

With pre blower temps of 80 degrees or so, and post blower temps of maybe 100-120 with the alky hooked up I'll bet you'd see 40-50 more hp. Plus you'd probably be able to run 5 more degrees of timing, which is probably worth another 15hp.

I wouldn't get discouraged yet. At least your AFR and timing is safe now. Then when you get some software you can pulley up to 11psi, hook up the alky, and tune it yourself. Tuning yourself is really the only way to go.

 

First, your PI Vig will skew numbers bad! For reference...

My first small Ford project (NOT a Mustang!!!) I ran a hot roller 306, 220/220 110LSA cam, GT40 heads, Cobra intake, all bolt-ons, full exhaust...it laid out only 230rwhp though a built AOD and a PI Stallion! On the bottle it'd hit 320rwhp (24lbs/hr injectors were max'd out). That same setup people were hitting 265-280rwhp N/A with through a MANUAL tranny. An auto saps more than 20% power, espically when you have a fat stall back there. I typically factor 25% for powerloss...it's more realistic to me.

Next, hot air boost is about useless. Just like BigTex said about the Whipple...it's going to get soooooo hot, it'll KR away to next to no use at all. Unless you decide to build an I/C setup, I'd consider sending it to ebay.

Also, my WRX is a single turbo and an intercooler. It hits a max of ~17psi then tapers to about 13.5psi by the shift (turbo is too small)...it gets heatsoaked VERY BADLY here in the Texas summer. It's a total turd when it's hot out, that's WITH an intercooler. So without one...****, it'd be useless.

FL8PONYs turbo is mounted pretty far back...the air has some time to cool before the intake. Oh and your boost starts around what...3500-4000rpm???

This may also be obvious BUT...have you looked to see if TqMgt is messing with you at all?