TTThornhill

looked for a sticky about this but didn’t see one.

I’m doing a build on a 2005 Tahoe 2wd. getting close to the point where i’m ready to assemble the motor and wanted some input on thing to do that I may be unaware of. here’s the list of thing done/parts on hand:

Major Items:
- 5.3 LM7 bored to 5.7
- Silv-o-lite pistons (stock crank and rods- wrist pin bearings in great shape)
- King rod and main bearings
- new rod and crank bolts
- 243 Heads resurfaced and new valve seals
- Cometic .040 head gaskets
- BTR Truck Norris (not the NSR version)
- BTR springs and push rods
- BTR LS7 Delphi lifters
- Trailblazer SS intake w/ oem 90mm DBW throttle body
- 50lb fuel injectors
- Xlink adapter for throttle body
- 1 7/8” Long tube headers
- Circle D 300mm 2800 stall converter
- 4L60e fully rebuilt, bulletproofed, and good for 650hp
- used OEM 3.73 gear with locker rear end assembly

Small items:
- oem style Melling oil pump
- “upgraded” style Oil Barbell
- oil pickup tube girdle
- all gaskets of course
- cylinder head studs
- ceramic End spark plug wires (hitting manifold)
- relooming and checking engine harness

Sure there are items i’m forgetting….

please let me know any tried and true things that I am possibly overlooking. Parts or Modifications. with cost in mind.

This is just a fun street truck that’s no longer my daily driver. thanks for your thoughts in advance!

shakenfake

If you haven't already bought studs I would just switch to bolts personally but that is just me. It looks good to me though

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Yeah no need for studs on that. ARP bolts will do just fine.

TTThornhill

i’m sure there plenty to be said about this, but the studs i’m using are the Xotic stud kit. paid $150 so not terribly much more than 2 dorman kits. due to a story to be told another time, I was looking at purchasing my third set of head bolts in the short amount of time about four months ago when I was doing just the top end build on it. The only reason I went studs is for potential future access

strutaeng

Looks good to me 😊. I'm assuming the crank was rebalanced for the slightly heavier rotating assembly (pistons)?

Did you get the cam bearings replaced? 🤔

shakenfake

I don't know what you mean by this. Are you saying in case you want to take the heads off? If so, ARP bolts can be reused infinitely (relatively speaking). Studs kinda suck for in truck work.

RB04Av

^^^ This ^^^

You either have to pull them all the way out, like you would bolts; or, you have to raise the heads on the studs in the direction they point (perpendicular to the block deck) by their height, to remove the heads. Pretty sure that ain't happenin in any real-world street vehicle.

IMO just "because all the fast cars have em" isn't a good reason to use stuff like that on a daily driver level of build like yours. Lots of those kinds of things cause far more trouble than they're worth.

50lb/hr injectors are arguable far too big for a 5.7L motor. Something around 32-36 would be easier to tune and would deliver all the fuel the engine will ever consume, if this isn't a flex-fuel deal. For reference, the stock 6.0 (LQ4 & LQ9) gasoline injectors are the same as 4.8 & 5.3 ones (usually Rochester 628). Granted, at 28 - 29 lb/hr they're maxed out in a stock LQ9; butt that should put the range you're in, into perspective. I can't see your build needing 75-80% more fuel than a stock 6.0.