Wykkyd

What's up everyone.

I've been a lurker for a while and decided it was time for my first post.

I'm building a 1985 S10 with a 5.3 LM7 with a 4L60e transmission. I'm looking to build a fun little street truck that I can daily if I want, nothing crazy! I'm new to the LS platform so I've been doing a ton of reading and research and I'm starting to dive myself crazy!

The 5.3 I got is supposed to be less than 90k miles, but I seriously doubt that. For that reason I'm going through the entire motor and going to freshen it up with new bearings, and rings.

My plans for the build is:
TBSS Intake
90mm TB
LS3 Timing Gears
LS7 Lifters
LS9 Head Gasket

Does that seem like a decent parts list?

Where I'm having trouble decided is which cam to go with. I want a cam that will give me a nice choppy idle, but I don't want it to be a turd down low. I've been eyeing the TSP Chopacabra, the BTR Truck Norris, or a Summit Pro LS cam. I'm going to be reusing my 862 heads with some aftermarket springs.

What cam would yall recommend going with, even if it's not one I listed?

shakenfake

I would skip the intake and TB and put that money into some better heads. I also would do just a regular GM head gasket.
Be cautious on the LS7 lifters. They aren't real GM and are reproductions. Someone on LS1Tech is apparently selling a lot of NOS lifters though, don't know if it real.

I would do something like a 21x/21x or a 20x/21x cam.

RB04Av

90% of what you listed is just useless buzzzzzwords that won't do a damn thing for what you're talking about.

I wouldn't mess with rings & bearings if I were you. The LSx motors don't wear those out.

Do a little research and measurement before getting all wrapped up in "TBSS" this and "LS3" that and "LS9" something else. Not appropriate for the project you're describing, no matter how "romantic" those terms are. Kinda like back in the day when people wanted the "375 HP 327" cam and all they got was the 151 POS and then wondered why their car got beat by a showroom-stock 350 2-bbl 74 Malibu with 160 HP. Good places to start would be, what oil pan you need (I'm guessing a Trailblazer 2WD one butt don't take my word for it), and HOOD CLEARANCE. The alt on the LM7 is WWWWWWWAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYYY high up. You may find yourself in aftermarket FEAD territory with that small engine room.

Once those deal-breakers are addressed, and you can get on to things where there are "options", I'd suggest:

Electric fan (again, your chassis will dictate what will fit, butt if you can use the 06-up truck electric fan, that's the best way to go)

Use the 862 heads you have. Get a GOOD valve job. Go to a racing shop (NOT the parts store on the corner) and get em "worked".

Somebody's "Stage 2 truck" cam; typically something around 212°/218°. Texas Speed, Vinci, Summit, CamMotion all have cams in/near that range that will serve you well. Avoid "chop" at ALL COSTS.

PAC 1218 valve springs; Texas Speed and WS6Store are good places for those. New valve guide seals of course. Get a valve spring installation tool and assemble the heads yourself.

Buy a Comp 7702 adjustable push rod. Wait to order push rods until you have THE WHOLE long block assembled. Texas Speed has push rods in .025" increments so you can get your preload exactly where it needs to be.

3000 - 3200 stall torque converter from a QUALITY mfr - no need to go all-out racing on this, butt don't just get the cheeeeeeepest thing that says "converter" on the box butt nobody goes to jail for fraud over it - Circle D, Yank, maybe a few others

Yeah, new timing set (doesn't have to be "LS3"); the better LS2 ones are fine

ANY head gasket; FelPro, Mahle, Victor-Reinz, or even (gasp!!!) GM is fine; make double damn sure to get new head bolts and follow the torque instructions that come with THE BOLTS: not the FSM, not the gasket, NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT; follow the instructions that come with the BOLTS (whether stock, FelPro, ARP, or WHOEVER)

Yeah, LS7 lifters, since virtually ALL of the lifters you buy now are made to that spec, butt don't just buy the cheeeeeeepest lifters you can find that somebody says "LS7" about; WS6Store is probably the best place for that

Get new GM or other quality (NOT the cheeeeeeeepest ones you can find on auction sites) lifter aligners/trays/whatever you call them

The stock LM7 intake and TB are pretty good, esp if you get the ECM that came out of the truck. Get the TAC module and gas pedal assy too. Not sure if any of that will fit under your hood.

A TUNE from somebody that knows what they're doing: it's impossible to overstress the importance of THE TUNE to these motors

Did I forget to mention, LEAVE THE SHORT BLOCK ALONE unless it's REALLY messed up, in which case throw it in the trash and go to yer local buzzard nest and get another? If not, LEAVE THE SHORT BLOCK ALONE unless it's REALLY messed up, in which case throw it in the trash and go to yer local buzzard nest and get another. They're STUUUUPID CHEEEEEEEEP, like about cost about ¼ of "rebuilding" one, and takes ALL the risk out of a "rebuild".

Wykkyd

Thanks for the info!

I'm using the Holley 302-1 oil pan and the LS Simple brackets to move the AC compressor and alternator positions. I'll be using the all the Holley swap parts to ensure it fits without having to cut the frame.

I would just throw it in the truck but there are signs the engine was smoking, which could defiantly be the heads. Pulled the valve cover off to inspect how clean it was and it didn't look bad but smelt of burnt oil (still could be heads).

Radiator and fans I've got ironed out. S10 4.3 radiator and factory Dodge Intrepid electric fans (almost direct bolt on).

Thanks for the info on the converter. I haven't really looked into it yet, as it all depends on the cam selection.

I got the entire motor, trans, wiring, ecu from a 2003 Silverado.

I figured while I have it out better to be safe than sorry and go ahead and replace the bearings and rings.

1redta

LS engines are easy, new bearings and rings (gapped for fun) get the alignment tools for gaskets and run the snot out of it

shakenfake

I would gap the rings, probably not replace. Bearings I would just check wear and run it.
But if you want a complete overhaul I understand that too.

What is the casting number on the heads?

wretched73

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely do not gap the rings. No boost = don't touch the rings

I'm shocked at the hate for the TBSS/NBSS intake, that was the go-to easy mod for the longest time.

shakenfake

@wretched73 I think the NBSS intake is better if you are going to do 317s or Gen IV heads. Otherwise I don't think you get a whole lot of benefit

RB04Av

Compare to https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...596/12019827-p I could be wRong (well, I AM wRong generally), and even mistaken about this particular matter, but I kinda think this might be more like what you'll need. Unless Holley lists their pan specifically as fitting S trucks.

The TBSS intake is perfectly good and all that, butt if you can't close your hood, maybe not so much. Again, it'd be wise to check. OTOH, compared to the LM7 one, it's not all that much improvement, at the level of a "cruiser". The LM7 one might be too tall as well; might end up having to use something lower, like maybe the LS6 one.

Wykkyd

Holley makes parts specifically for the S10
https://www.holley.com/platform/chev...swap_oil_pans/