BlackGMC

iTrader: (31)

No problem man, I always up for lending a hand... Good luck and take your time, don't forget to label those grounds when you remove your old motor! Need anything else just ask..

00ChevyScott

iTrader: (10)

this guy passed up free pizza

NegraRCSB2X4auto

iTrader: (15)

glad to see you got an engine so quick.

00ChevyScott

iTrader: (10)

I just hope I can get the engine out of there. I'm scared of all the sensors and electronics and ****. When I'm pulling this harness off, all I can think about is being totally confused when I go to hook it all back up.

Are there any write ups or diagrams for engine removal in our trucks? I have a haynes but really haven't checked how good it is for engine swap instructions.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

I found this:

Engine R&r. In/out.write Up By 2000 Ls1

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Official ENGINE R&R Guide

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This is a step-by-step removal and replacement of the 4.8, 5.3 and 6.0L trucks. I am not sure whether or not the deisel trucks are the same or not, I'm sure it's the same concept. This is intended to be a guide and I am not responsible if you get hurt or hurt anything on/in you truck while attempting to do this yourself. This should be performed by a trained and experianced mechanic. Ok, let's get started.

1. Loosen the hose clamps on both ends of the air tube assy and the hose clip on the passenger side of the radiator.

2. Next is the engine cover, 10mm nuts hold this on. Then the radiator shroud comes out when you take the 2 10mm bolts from the top of the shroud and the four pull-pins where the upper and lower part of the shroud connects.

3. Now put nuts/bolt in a tray/ziplock bag/muffin pan whatever you prefer but mark then accordingly.

4. Now the fan belt, use a 36mm wrench to twist the nut against the cranking rotation of the belt. Do not remove the belt before doing this, the belt will hold the water pump shaft in place while you loosen the fan nut. The fan but may be stuck so either have an air hammer or something else to accomodate.

5. Now drain the coolant, if you don't know how to do this you shouldn't be trying to pull the motor out in the first place.

6. Pull the the upper radiator hose on the engine off. The clamps will not slide on the hoses, just so you know.

7. Lower radiator hose and 2 heater hoses, Radiator hook may be needed here.

8. Remove the throttle cable, hold at WOT & unloop the cable. Remove the anchor as well, push the 2 tangs on the anchor and pull it out.

9. Upper cover bracket for the intake man, 3 10mm bolts hold it on.

10. Pull brake booster hose from the housing and start working on the ground straps. You'll have several, just look for them. I can't tell you everyone, someone else may can though.

11. Now starting on the Harness, TPS plug and altnator plug go next.

12. Now take the EVAP solenoid wire connectors and air temp senders. THese are located right behind the TB.

13. The mian wire harness clip needs to be unhooked, use a radiator tool.

14. Remove the coil plugs on both sides of the engines, you will have 8 total. When you get through with this, get the other altenatot wire, it's a 10mm.

15. Remove the Intake Manifold to get to the Knock sensor jumper wires unless you have it tagged or know it.

16. Fuel injector wiring harness, can be a bitch at first, just take your time and play with it a minute, it's hard to explain.

17. Now pull the water temp sensor wire on the driver's side of the block. Towards the front BTW.

18. Remove the MAP connector. It's on top of the intake towards the back.

19. Fuel lines, disconnect the to and from or feed and return lines. Do not lose the clips though. You'll need the special fuel line tool for this. be sure you have it.

20. Now we can take off the belt. Use the tensioner with a 15mm wrench.

21. Power steering pulley, take it off to see the bolts behind it. You will need a pully puller, go rent or buy one before you get started doing this.

22. Now take the 4 15mm Hex headed bolts out, 3 on the pump and 1 on the bracket. Keep up with bolts again.

23. Now zip-tie the PS pump to the inner fender well out of the way. It will stay there until we reinstall the engine.

24. AC, do the same with the AC compressor. 2 15mm Hex bolts on the side of the pump, and 2 on the bottom. Zip-tie it out of the way on the pass side.

25. Starter, 2 -13mm bolts and a 10mm bolt holding the flexplate access cover. You may have to play with it to get the starter out, time and patience my friend.

26. Now, while you're still under there, take the oil level connector off the oil pan and remove the 10mm bolt holding the harness on the fron of the oil pan.

27. Unbolt the exhaust collector. 3-15mm bolts hold it. Long extension needed or reccomended.

28. Remove 3 15mm bolts holding the flexplate and torque converter together. Use the hole you made with removeing the starter.

29. Remove all of the TRanny bolts you can, some are easier from the top, the top 2 anyway.

30. To get to the tranny bolts let's take the intake off. 10-8mm bolts hold the intake on and a few hoses and connectors. Clean around the itake before taking it off so you don't get **** in your ports.

31. Take the oil pressure sender and Knock sensors connector loose. May want to cover the ports at this time as well. Tape or shop towel whatever but do something.

32. Now disconnect the cam sensor connector and then remove the 10mm bolts hoding the brackets, about 3 I think. After this you'll be able to get to the other tranny bolts.

33. Now the motor mount bolts. 3-15mm bolts on each side, don't try to remove the engine until you take the loose.

34. Take the hood off now, if you haven't already. I would actuallly do it first but I am not changing it all now.

35. Start pulling, slowly and watching for anything you or me either one forgot. I'm sure I missed something so take your time and post up if know a different way/shortcut.

36. Start drinking your beer now. I wouldn't advise doing it until now though. lol. May tear something up.

Thanks for reading and if I can be of assistance please let me know.

Once again, a professional should at least be on hand while pewrforming this operation. Should you or anyone else get hurt I am not responsible. Should your vehicle get hurt or something go wrong I am not responsible. This is to be used as a guide only.

Have Fun with it.

2000_LS1

dlt76028

iTrader: (13)

its real easy, all the wires pretty much fall back into place.

53RUSSELL

iTrader: (9)

I can't believe his existing motor only has 112k and needs new cam bearings
I guess I’m lucking i have 140k and she still running strong.

viciousknid

iTrader: (8)

your not lucky. he's just unlucky. as stated 100k miles on a 5.3 is nothing. Too bad he couldn't find a 6.0 for cheap, that woulda been awesome.

Good luck getting it back together, Should be a piece of cake.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Hey man, I am a sorry to hear about your bad misfortune and hope you can get back running as soon as possible. It is too bad you couldn't get a 6 liter but you have to do what you have to do. One sure things is the guys on this site are great, I own them all a lot

00ChevyScott

iTrader: (10)

I'm just happy my cam and springs are already in this motor. one less thing to worry about, and the fact that I will have this motor in soon is even better. Tomorrow I will be working to pull the old motor. I'm prepping this motor tonight.