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6.0 Buildup - Your advice wanted.

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Old 09-19-2010, 12:35 PM
  #271  
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Someone asked about what all I've got in this build. I've got just about everything documented. Here's a text file. I've got almost $5,300 in this build.
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Old 09-20-2010, 07:48 AM
  #272  
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I need some advice on my cruise control. First of all, the tab on the TB is larger than on the original. How can I connect it? Second, is it ok for there to be about 3/16" slack in the cruise cable at idle? That's with the adjustment as short as possible.
Old 09-20-2010, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by blsnelling
As far as connecting the hose from the passenger's side valve cover, there's what appears to be a block-off screw in the top of the t-body. I'm thinking that all I need is a fitting to screw in there and connect the hose to it.
It turns out that this is actually an adjustment screw for IAC. I'm confused how that is different from the blade stop?

So, I'm going to have to come up with another way to plumb the vac hose. I'm thinking I'll use a 1/4" NPT to 6AN fitting. I can either drill and top the t-body, or go into the intake tube. I like the idea of a nice solid fitting in the t-body. Thoughts?
Old 09-20-2010, 11:54 AM
  #274  
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That screw can make more precise adjustments. But on mine i didn't even open the screw. I let the IAC valve take care of idle.

And for the vacumn port it needs to be ahead of the tb blade. Mine is in the tube.
Old 09-20-2010, 02:58 PM
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I'm in the truck doing the security relearn procedure now!
Old 09-20-2010, 03:09 PM
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Running and 70 pounds of oil pressure!

Last edited by blsnelling; 09-20-2010 at 03:44 PM.
Old 09-20-2010, 03:45 PM
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I let it idle for 8-9 minutes, which had it up to temp for a while. No leaks, good temp, and excellent oil pressure. I fogot one small thing. I didn't block off the EGR port on the passenger's side header. I let it go for the first heat cycle. I've got it blocked off now.

One issue. It's idling at 1700-2000 RPMs. Does the engine have to be started and turned off a few times for the IAC valve to reset?
Old 09-20-2010, 04:07 PM
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Oh, it does go into gear too Looks like my trans pump is OK.
Old 09-20-2010, 04:41 PM
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Did you get the intake tube all hooked up? If that nipple that the hose from the passenger side valve cover connects to is open unmetered air will be going into the engine and will cause a very high idle.
Old 09-20-2010, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 1slow01Z71
Did you get the intake tube all hooked up? If that nipple that the hose from the passenger side valve cover connects to is open unmetered air will be going into the engine and will cause a very high idle.
I don't understand? It's not going into the induction system. What I did until I get my fittings, is to put an inline fuel filter on it so that dirty air doesn't go into the valve cover. How would that affect idle?

I don't have the intake reducer yet, so I have it sealed up good with black duct tape. I don't believe there are any leaks there.

The initial high idle problem was my throttle bracket. I had a little too much tension on the cable. I slotted the holes and took care of that. However, the idle is still not consistent. Somtimes it's 700, sometimes it's 1000.

The biggest problem I have now is with the shifting tune. It's going into 3rd and lockup at 25MPH. Of course it lugs like crazy when it does that. I'll get that ironed out with Jason. He did this tune in a hurry for me. I really appreciate him going above and beyond to get me running in a hurry.

I went by the dealer and got the crank relearn done. I had forgotten that require a quick burst of WOT. It shocked me, but sure sounded awesome. It grabbed RPMs INSTANTLY! Wow! I guess that's what higher compression does for you.

I've got 14 miles on it and changed the oil. I'm letting it cool before I drive it anymore.

I'll have a vid up shortly.


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