CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

I've never done anything like this, so any tips would be appreciated. It's a 2000 5.3 to a 2003 6.0. So far I've pulled the 5.3 and switched over the flywheel (and pulled out the spacer), power steering pump, and intake manifold for EGR, and a couple other things that aren't necessary but were broken. Is there anything else? I can't cam it yet because the bank has already been broken Thanks for the help. The 6.0 goes in tomorrow if the rain clears out. Parts broken so far: intake manifold (came like this), 1 engine mount, 6.0 flywheel (pryed on it ), valve cover, oil pressure sender, wiper cowl (small crack, flywheel caught it), and 1 coil pack.

hefdaddy007

broke enough **** yet??

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

The oil sensor is weak plastic and cost 45 dollars. DONT break that part if you ever pull the intake

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

Im worried that you may break something real important,you need to try and be a little more careful.What spacer did you remove? OK wait a minute,your 6.0 cam from a 4l80E?Using your 5.3 flexplate you will match up to the TQ converter for sure.Did you pull the motor with the intake manifold on or off? It looks like they would break easy trying to yank it you with the intake on. I alway pull the intake.Make sure you dont pinch anything anywhere and make sure your grounds go back where they came from,back of the head back of the intake and a left front lower part of the motor,sometimes several straps per bolt.Always safety first.If you dont kill yourself or your truck/engine,and this runs perfect on the first fire,I will be impressed.

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

Thanx gonzo, I will let you know when I fire it up the first time. And yes it came from a 4L80E, and about the spacer, it is between the flywheel and crankshaft. Mine was pressed into the flywheel, but another guy at the wrecking yard who did the swap said his was pressed onto the crank and he didn't notice, so when he started it up BANG his torque converter fried. And I did pull the intake to make it easier. The way I broke the sensor was the lifting chain was too close to it and when I took the slack out of it, SNAP. The intake manifold, valve cover, coil pack, and engine mount were broke in the wreck the 6.0 came out of. Anyone else have any tips or is this everything? Gonzo I have a silly question so I'm pming it.

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

One more thing i like to do is pull out both inner fender wells,you can really get to the headers and the back coil pack Rt side,you didnt have any trouble unhooking the fuel lines?Now when you unbolted the torque converter you should have slid it away from the flexplate,if you didnt,its had to say if it pulled away from the trans when you pulled the motor,the pilot fits snug in the back of the crank,make sure the converter is in all the way,,,,check by rotating and pushing in. dont pull out.always check to make sure the converter is free once the motor is in and before you crank down the bell bolts

BigTex

iTrader: (16)

CashDude - good luck with the swap.

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

OK this thread has all the tips I need. GONZO, I had to buy a tool for the fuel lines, then they came right out. And I will be sure to check the converter before I bolt it up. That's a nice looking shop you have there gonzo, if that's it in your sig. I want one like that some day. And yes that right side header took me about 2 hours to get in, but it came right out with the engine slightly lifted. BIGTEX, thanks for the kind words.

nightmarechevy

iTrader: (5)

Good luck, hope everything goes ok.

gonzo 6.2

iTrader: (8)

Thanks for the comments,The right header will go in and out easy from the top ,the key is to have the coil pack off,I wish it said that in the AZ speed instructions when we did my buddys.No need to lift the engine.Left side is easy from the bottom