6.0L block - 408
#3
i was thinkin i heard 1slow01z71 say something about it a week or so ago and i plan on building a 408 in the future and i originally was going to get a tsp shortblock but no i think i am going to get a bare block from sdpc and build it myself any machine shop knows how to bore it .030 over but id probably have to explain to them about clearancing if it was needed
#4
High on diesel fumes
iTrader: (70)
Originally Posted by nightrunner
i was thinkin i heard 1slow01z71 say something about it a week or so ago and i plan on building a 408 in the future and i originally was going to get a tsp shortblock but no i think i am going to get a bare block from sdpc and build it myself any machine shop knows how to bore it .030 over but id probably have to explain to them about clearancing if it was needed
#5
Tin Foil Hat Wearin' Fool
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My problems were with counterweight to wrist pin clearance and that was because I have a 4.100 stroke crank not a 4". You will not need to do any clearancing, I didnt even have to with the 4.100 stroke as far the block goes. You will need the cut off the front 1/4 of the windage tray to clear the counterweights up front but other then that nothing else has to be messed with.
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#9
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The block won't need to be clearanced for an Eag;e 4" crank I know.
If you're using an Eagle crank, rods, and Diamond -2cc pistons, you will need to notch the #8 piston skirt slightly for the reluctor wheel on the crank.
That was the only issue the machine shop told me about, other than that, he said the parts all went together like they were made to fit!
If you're using an Eagle crank, rods, and Diamond -2cc pistons, you will need to notch the #8 piston skirt slightly for the reluctor wheel on the crank.
That was the only issue the machine shop told me about, other than that, he said the parts all went together like they were made to fit!