Dark Halo

iTrader: (14)

just wonder if I should put the arp heads studs on my new set up or just stick with stock gm bolts? my set up consist of a 6.0 lq9 with a 230/236 .591/601 on a 110 lsa, patriot stage 2 ls6 heads 64cc chambers., and all the goodies to go with it.

Kano

iTrader: (3)

I ended up just going with the stock GM bolts
I think the studs would be $200 overkill for a NA app

mattrem

iTrader: (7)

I went with new GM bolts when I swapped heads. I was told that the ARPs need to be retorqued after the first heatcycle. I didn't feel like taking the exhaust off to do that. The GM bolts are TTY, they will work fine for N/A. If you where FI then I would look into the ARP.

Dark Halo

iTrader: (14)

Im going N/A for now. When I finish the stroker I plan on a large shot of N2O

99Silver6.0

iTrader: (1)

I used stock bolts for mine.

Dark Halo

iTrader: (14)

I have a set of oem bolts that came with my heads

Yellowsierra

iTrader: (7)

I have aset of ARP bolts I will sell you for $75 shipped. I used them for about 700 miles and then had to pull my motor out.

Dark Halo

iTrader: (14)

it could be a week or 2 before I can get as I just bought a new raditor and altanator

Yellowsierra

iTrader: (7)

Im buying some ARP studs just to make sure I dont blow a head gasket so if you need them just let me know.

Thanks

Justin

whitt1

The ARP studs have more clamping force than head bolts and are really nice to have on motors that use a power adder{FI or nitrous}to keep the heads from lifting.If you are planning to spay the motor the ARP stud are definately worth the money.