XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

**EDIT** Pics are working but, are not full size. Go here to view the gallery of pics. <a href="http://community.webshots.com/album/45556659GDVRIx" target="_blank"><font color="red">ASP Pulley Install pics<!--color--></font></a>

Got around to installing my ASP pulley Saturday afternoon. Here are some pics to help anyone thinking about doing this on there own.

First you have to get the stock pulley off. A Sears pulley puller model # 00946906000 works great.

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/pf827c984178b7a5f69d74226b9401f63/fc36f3f1.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">Puller setup<!--color--></font></a>

Here is a picture of the stock balancer. You want to hook the puller to the inner three tabs that are connected to the inner hub.

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p100a2174687a76ea1982034b2d4613dd/fc36f391.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">Stock balancer<!--color--></font></a>

You start the balancer off by leaving the stock bolt threaded in a few threads. This gives the center screw of the puller something to push against. The stock bolt is not long enough for the puller to get the pulley completely off so a shim is needed.

A 21MM-22MM socket is the right size to fit into the center of the pulley but, the square 1/2" drive is too big and the center screw of the puller will start to thread into it. To get around this I used a 1/2" drive to 3/8" drive adapter so the center screw of the puller had something to push against. This setup worked great.

You can see how it should look here.

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p82f7b0445d3ec109c6ca0c967bbdc467/fc36f3ee.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">Puller hooked up with shim for extra travel<!--color--></font></a>

Here's a shot of the 21MM socket and adapter I used as a shim.

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p3bcb7ba4121717d93511d79a50e14822/fc36f3ea.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">Socket Shim setup<!--color--></font></a>

When it comes to torqueing the new bolt back down a 18" breaker bar and jack handle come in real handy.

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p58a7bbed82f80b429928b9dffd31c040/fc36f4a9.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">3' worth of torque<!--color--></font> </a>

I also took some measurements of the old and new bolts. The bolts do stretch and should not be reused no matter what anybody tells you. You can pick them up for less than $4.00 at your local dealer. The part# for a new bolt is 12557840.

Here is the new bolt with measurements. It measures ~4.744"

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/pac4d640ab147b2dec6c45d934dc1518c/fc36f4a5.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">New bolt<!--color--></font></a>

Here is the old bolt with measurements. It measures ~4.796"

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p8c622ee44bf33ea4b8d426bb95f1937d/fc36f38b.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">Old bolt<!--color--></font></a>


The job is not very hard if you just stay patient. Make sure you setup the puller before hand and get the bolts all tight.(That will help you stay patient ) The inside of the hooks on the puller arms should be about 1 5/8" from the middle of the center screw, here is a pic.

<a href="http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid61/p776897a6e4127dfcee8be96b5b65e4c5/fc36f4af.jpg" target="_blank"><font color="red">Puller arm setup<!--color--></font></a>


If you have an automatic you will have to stop the motor from spinning. This can be done by dropping the starter and jamming a screwdriver through a hole in the flexplate. You can also unclip the inspection cover from the trans bellhousing and jam a 3/8" drive extension up in there. OR you could rent the tool made specifically for this .


Now to go test it out.

John

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

The pics are fixed but, aren't full size. If you want to view a pic at full size go to the "ASP pulley install pics" link at the top of the first post.

Free servers and there stinking rules.

John

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

XLR did you have trouble getting the new AC belt on? I had to use a screwdriver to pry it on there. Also did you do the alternator pulley? I just did my set (both underdrives) a week or 2 ago and they kick ***.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Nope, no problem getting the A/C belt on. I looped it over the back of the harmonic balancer first. It was not on the pulley yet but, all the way off the back. Then I looped it over the A/C clutch and fit it on the grooves. Then put it on the balancer grooves. It was a little snug going on the balancer but, I could still get it on with my fingers without any struggling. Then I just twisted the tensioner down and slipped the belt over it.

I just put the balancer pulley on. I noticed that my guage reads about one small mark lower than before but, it's still over 14 volts so I'm not worried. That's with the stock ~550rpm idle also. I bet if I raised my idle with EDIT it would be back to normal.

I tried to see what the electric fans would do to the voltage at idle but, it would never warm up enough to get the fans on. I tried holding the rpms up a bit and that just made it cooler. The 160° thermo and bigger radiator seem to be working great.

I'll be testing things out tomorrow.

John

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

First impressions are that there is quite a difference in low and midrange torque. The motor wants to accelerate faster. I still can't really tell a difference at WOT but, I think that the truck is running rich at WOT and needs to be leaned out. My ATAP cable is officially missing in action so I'll have to wait until EFILIVE gets here to check. If I ever find my cable I'll sell it cheap.

BTW - The ASP pulley weighs in at 8 lbs which is ~4 lbs lighter than the stock pulley.

Cash - I just realized that you're probably talking about the underdriven alternator pulley. For whatever reason I was thinking about an overdriven alternator pulley to compensate for any voltage loss. That's why my reply probably made no sense.

John

CashDudeHomie

iTrader: (5)

Hey man you might want to try the underdrive alternator pulley. I had my stock one on but I got bored one night and swapped the underdrive one on (same socket size as the crank) and I didn't lose any voltage at all. I have electric fans and I turned on the headlights and radio and it still ran perfect. I had heard so many people say they had charging problems so I was shocked that it ran so good with the bigger pulley.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Well, I seem to be one of the ones that has charging problems. It's not really a problem but, my voltage did drop down to around 12.5-13 at idle when the fans kicked on. I think I'll just leave the alternator alone. Before I did the fans and pulley my voltage never dropped below 14.5-15.

I'm gonna kick my idle up about 200rpm and see what that does.

XLR8NSS

iTrader: (4)

Well, I EFILIVED the truck today and I was right about it being rich. The LTRIMS lock in at ~+10% at WOT which is causing the O2's to be around .955mv That's why it felt kinda sluggish at WOT. I don't have time this week to mess with EDIT. I think I'm going to wait until after the header and new exhaust install to mess with the A/F ratio anyway becuase that's bound to throw off things off.