agreif

iTrader: (4)

OK, the 4 clamps I'm looking at for installing my new headers and exhaust. Will be running clamps at eth collector, after the Y and on each side of the muffler. I'm thinking I could use #4 just like the others where they clamp one over the other no? I'm leaning towards #1 or #2 (#2 I can add to my summit order without extra shipping) and I will hacksaw some slots in the expanded pipe to get a better seal. What do ya think.

1. the Stainless Works ones: 3" ID ACCUSEAL THICK HIGH TORQUE BAND CLAMP. 300 SERIES STAINLESS 16 GAUGE STRAP WITH ZINC PLATED 3/8" T BOLT AND REACTION BLOCK. THESE ARE THE BEST HIGH TORQUE CLAMPS AVAILABLE, AND WILL NOT OVAL THE PIPE LIKE STANDARD SADDLE CLAMPS


2. And the DynoMax Torque Tight: Direct from Dynomax are these Torctite Exhaust Clamps. These are available in aluminized and stainless steel. Smooth transition lap joint allows proper fit to seal expanded slip-fit connections. These are great for muffler, tailpipe, merge pipe connections.


3. Dynomax Lap-Joint Band Clamps: These stainless steel band-style exhaust clamps combine a 360 degree seal with a unique design that won't crush pipes and ruin exhaust flow. This particular style was created to "lap-joint" two pipes of different diameters together (one pipe fits inside the other). The polished clamps come with pre-attached hardware and Grade 8 bolts for high strength and temperature durability.


4. Dynomax Butt-Joint Band Clamps: These stainless steel band-style exhaust clamps give you a 360 degree seal that won't leak. This particular style was created to "butt-joint" two pipes of the same diameter together--without the need to fit one pipe inside the other. The polished clamps come with pre-attached hardware and Grade 8 bolts for high strength and temperature durability.


Andrew

w41quad4

You'll get better sealing with #3 & #4 although i've used the #2 with no problems it was on a butt-joint. I've also used clamps like #3 & #4 on slip fit connections and didn't do anything special other than use anti-seize at the slip fit so removal would be easy. They sealed perfectly.
Honestly i'd avoid the 1st clamp because it wont form to the pipe like all the rest of the clamps will. All the rest will really pull tight and seal any imperfections.

Okie5.3

iTrader: (1)

clamp 4 won't work on a lap-joint, such as the header/collector, it is for use on butt-joints. i have used the pre-formed clamps 2 & 3 for the lap-joints, and they work fine for the most part. clamp 1 i have to say is the best one i have used to date. it will form around the pipe just fine. you do have to cut 4 slits, approximately the width of the clamp, on the O.D. end of the pipe so it will clamp down around the I.D. portion and seal properly. clamp 1, without a doubt, gets my vote.

blksilverado

iTrader: (1)

i got the #1 clamps that i'm using for my collectors to clamp the cats on. Seem to work well. but i havn't got it running yet. i'm still working on the y pipe as we speak. everything else is going to be welded except for the mufflers, i will be using clamps for those as well.

negativeswitches

iTrader: (15)

i used #2 3 will also work just as good

i love mine!!!

w41quad4

BTW-clamp 4 will work on a lap joint, while its not designed it will definately conform to the piping. We had to do that on my friends 71' Duster when all he had was a box full of butt-seam clamps and well those clamps are still on the car leak free 3 years later.