TarheelZ

Which of your trucks are the headers for? I'm biased toward the Dynatech long-tubes but the Stainless Works are an excellent product also. You can buy just the headers in either brand in T-304 stainless and they're quality pieces. Mine are uncoated and I'm fine with that but if your budget allows, the ceramic coating will help keep the heat in the headers rather than under the hood (which I'm sure you already know).

Good luck!

DamnYankee

iTrader: (22)

I'm first of all not claiming these are the best. But you won't beat the quality. I love mine and have no complaints. You can get them off AutoAnything.com for $470 coated and shipped.

sprayed99

iTrader: (16)

For the gibbs truck. Well I got an interesting phone call tonight and now i live with the pacesetters for a little while. I'm having a bit of other work done. I'll have pics when done.

OnyxSilveradoSS

iTrader: (4)

OBX...just as cheap???

BigCountryx

iTrader: (3)

I looked and the shorties were $470
The 310Y-C TriYs are $ 665 shipped

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

I have the Thorley 310-Y-C and they are excellent. I've had them for about three years. The tri-Y design is superior to long tubes for street driven vehicles in my opioion as it gives a broad-band torque boost. The peak HP is not as great as good long tubes. However, the overall performance is better and the Thorleys are a great value.

Steve

BigCountryx

iTrader: (3)

For anyone running non-ceramic, jet hot, etc. How bad are the under hood temps. Is it gonna cause problems if I've got chrome headers when stuck in stop and go traffic?

atom

I think I've beat myself to death with this subject but I just want to know what I'm gettin for my money. I went to headerdesign. com, headers by ed, burns stainless, S&S headers, this site and all othe pertinent forum sites, used tube diameter calc, etc. to try to get the best I could. Bottom line is after filling my head with all I could I've come to the conclusion that a lot of headers out there really do incorporate poor design features. This is all in theory, or supposed proof from others more hands on than myself: Equal primary tube lengths! preferably 30" or greater to maximize low end and mid range torque, bigger isn't always better, steps are questionable, collectors should eliminate the dead spots on the merge, smoothly transition to a flare, all things working together to reduce back pressure and improve scavenging. I was hard pressed to find any off the shelf header, at any price level, that was designed keeping those "musts" in mind. Actually it comes down to choosing the best of what we are offered as I for sure am not welding up my own design! I picked a S&S header, 3/8" flange, 1 3/4" primary, 3" collector, a slightly different tri-y, 20" tubes with a 1/2" tolerance between tube lengths, 16 gauge, Jet-Hot ceramic, great price. If I had a pic I'ld post it. When they come in.

Steve Bryant

iTrader: (1)

Here's some pictures of the Thorleys during installation three years ago.


Note: the steering shaft is not yet connected.


Note: the EGR pipe is not yet connected.

Steve

Torque_Wrench

iTrader: (13)

Dude out of 20,000 people with Pacesetter LT's you are the only one I've met with a problem with their product. I guess there has to be one dis-satisfied customer just soley to keep the number of averages in affect.