Seeing Red Again

I did a simple excel program on some power mods a while back. I listed the cost of the modification then estimated the gain (ie. lower time) that it would provide in tenths of a second in the 1/4. I tried to base it off what on average most people would agree to. Here's what it looks like:
Mod ___________Cost ____Gain ____Value
Free Mods ____$- _________1 _____$-
Nitrous(Mild)_$1,000.00____7 _____$142.86
hp3 __________$300.00_____2 _____$150.00
Converter 1 __$750.00_____4 _____$187.50
Converter 2 __$375.00 ____2 _____$187.50
Cam (Mild)____$600.00 ____3 _____$200.00
Gears/LSD ____$450.00 ____2 _____$225.00
Pulley _______$225.00 ____1 _____$225.00
Supercharge __$3,500.00___15 ____$233.33
Intake _______$200.00 ___0.75 ___$266.67
LS1 Fans _____$150.00 ___0.5 ____$300.00
Exhaust ______$1,000.00 __2 _____$500.00

Nitrous had the best value (I also included some bottle refills in the cost) in that it provides the most gain for the dollar, but it also jeopardizes your engine which is costly. In my opinion the mods that provide the best bang for the buck without running the risk of costly repairs would be:
1) Computer programmer - (HP3, Predator, LS1 Edit)
2) Torque Converter - (2400 to 3000, assuming you are getting traction)
3) Pulley - (ASP)
4) Gears/Locker - (if you don't already have 3.73's)

Also keep in mind I didn't include any installation costs in this. If you need a shop to do any of these mods for you, it will drastically change these costs. Good luck!

Silvette_02

Alright guys I appreciate the help. Here's what I'm looking at:
1) HPP3
2) Mods off of eBay
3) Nitrous
4) Converter or Corvette servo
5) Shorty Headers

Whatcha think? When I said budget, I meant, no supercharger or other real expensive stuff. I have about $1000 saved up. So let me know.

Josh Hucks
NXS Customs

Seeing Red Again

Looks good except I'm not sure what "mods off e-bay" are. I'm also not a big fan of shorty headers. They typically advertise 8 to 10 hp which hardly seems worth the money to me.

BTW welcome to the site! I have family in the Loris/Conway area, and I grew up not far from you there outside of Whiteville, NC.

whitez71

Yeah I would say not to get the shorty headers. Save up for some long tubes. Also would go with the diablo predator over the hypertech. "Mods of e-bay" are all free mods that you can do yourself. The TBB can be done with a hose mender from home depot. Got mine where the air hose are sold. It is brass 1/4" with little barbs on each end just stick the coolant lines on it. Also for the EGR mod just unbolt if from the tb and hack it off where the ridge is and stick it back in. Check out www.installuniversity.com for all the free mods.

parish8

iTrader: (6)

i am thinking and if he is handy and can do the swap him self a 6.0 might just be the best $/hp gain he can do. i have seen them for for $1000-$1500 regularly and i bet he would gain over 1sec in the 1/4. this mod makes even more sence being that he has a 4.8. lets say he has to spend $1200 on the motor and gets 1.2 sec out of it, that is 100 / .1ET. not bad, no bottles to fill but the miliage would go down some.

the whole "nitrous is bad for your motor" thing is a myth too, if you follow the directions and don't get greedy it will run forever. have you ever heard of anyone blowing up their motor on a 100wet shot? i suppose someone out there may have but not very often.

Silvette_02

I appreciate all the help. Well, here's the deal on my mechanic ability. I have pulled the 350 out of my 71 Cutlass and rebuilt it with a new cam, heads, roller rockers, intake, etc. However, I'm a little wary of these electronic engines. I might could do a cam swap, but that's about all I'm gonna try.

I wanna try a HPP3 and a 100hp Nitrous kit first. If I do those two things, then throw in a LS1 or 6 cam what will happen?

Thanks for the help!
Josh Hucks
NXS Customs

parish8

iTrader: (6)

can't go wrong with the nitrous, as far as these new motors being hard to work on, it just isn't true. i might just be easier. you can pull the entire intake and fuel system up top in about 20 minutes and can even reuse the gaskets, it is so light you can pick it up with one finger, it is amazing. all the electrical conections are idiot proof, eveyone is diferent so you cant get it wrong.

if you ever plan on going all out later i would skip the hpp3 and even the ls6 cam, go with the nitrous and then think about some headers and cutouts or exhaust. ls1edit after that. 6.0 down the road.

if you only plan on a few mods ever then nitrous and hpp3 would get you some good gains. that cam might be good if you put it with a converter.

Hit Man X

IMO, free mods suck. EGR is the only that may help power...not cutting the tube but the one where you lessen the exhaust gas back into the intake. Descreening the MAF works for a while then the computer relearns the power somewhat and you end up going slower. Coolant bypass...sameway. I have it hooked up on both of my trucks, it has to be there for a reason and I have seen NO concluisve evidence there is power to be gained.

First off, I'd go with a stall converter. That will be one of the largest gains in ET/0-60 you will see next to Supercharger/Nitrous. The Yank converters seem to be favorites around here. Precision Industries makes kick *** converters too. Indigo 5.3 just ordered a nice Edge Performance converter @ around $450...all the features of the expensive ones just less expensive. www.edgeperformance.com If you tow or not, then I can point you in the right direction. I would install that with a TransGo shift kit and if money allows billet intermediate and overdrive servos. The TransGo and the servos will help your trans stay together longer by fixing inherent problems. Get a good sized cooler too. They are about $40, cheap insurance for an expensive transmission.

Also, free up your air intake somehow. K&N FIPKs sell for ~$200 used. UPD's are nice too from what I have read. If I had a UPD I would saw the bottom of the stock air intake box for more flow. Both are good for about 6-10rwhp...but a much better WOT sound too.

A new HPP3 is about $325 vs $400 for a Predator. The Predator also comes with a free Thermostat from Tbyrne Motorsports. You can do waaaay more with the Predator. Timing, Rev limiter, shift points, SES lights, etc. Far better programmer, if I were to buy an over the counter hand held it would be that.

Nitrous is your friend if used in moderation. A 75-100 shot will work well on a fairly stock motor...even better with that stall converter.

Also a ported stock TB is around $140. A guy named Shaner ports them close to me. He works out of his home doing them so it may be best to call instead of e-mail. I know Y2K Silverado was having trouble contacting him. http://home.att.net/~m.shaner/wsb/ht...ome.html-.html

ASP underdrive pullies work well too. They typically sell for around $200 new. Good for about 8-12rwhp too.

I'd get a set of used shorty headers. I would not pay full price as the power isn't there for the money. Manifolds suck, but you will beat yourself up for spending $500 and getting the same power gains as a CAI and a high flow MAF.

The converter w/ shift kit and install will set you back about $1200 or so (depending on brand), but would yield the most speed. That should be your first mod. Then air intake with programming of somesort.

Hit Man X

I totally agree with Parish about the 6.0 swap. It is almost fool proof. Just label all the harnesses and you should be set. These new motors are soooo easy to work with. You could easily do a cam swap on a 6.0 motor while it is out. Hell the intake manifold doesn't even have to come off!

I think it is much easier to work with and tune SEFI motors than carb'd rides.

RED2K

If you are on a budget i would say save up the $185 and get a UPD intake. Then get a free flowing muffler. Then get you a diablo tuner. There are down loads you get get when you decide to go farther into modding your truck for the diablo programmer. During this time you can do your free mods and that way you can have a bit of fun while you saving for the next mod. You can get a set of shorty headers but that would be the last thing i would do because you might run into some down time incase you break a bolt or something