kevins01silverado

so the nut should slide over the bolt then weld it?

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

Use whatever you have laying around that you can make work. You'll be welding thru the center of the nut, onto the broken bolt.

iregret

iTrader: (4)

I had to do this. Real simple to weld the nut on there. Chevy has a revised bolts available. I ended up replacing all of mine with the newer bigger bolts.

RezinTexas

I used the SS header studs on re-install. very clean.

ARP Header Stud Kit, LS1, LS6, 5.7L & 6.0L | WS6store.com

WhiteChevy3

My old 99 5.3L was the same way as yours. I just let it leak since I was building a 6L. If you are keeping the 5.3 for a while u can weld a nut on there and remove it. And get the bigger headed bolts as iregret mentioned, or a quick trip to fastenal will work too. Hell even my 07 lq4 had one of the bolts broke...

Koots

I was lucky enough to have 1 or 2 broken off with threads sticking out and 2 more that just fell out. my manifold was pretty warped though and i resurfaced it as best as I could with hand files and it's been leak free ever since.

texasglock23

iTrader: (1)

I had zero threads...hope you are luckier than I was

kevins01silverado

the bolt is actually flush with the outside of the manifolds so im hoping when i pull the maifolds off i can just get them out with pliers or something and some good old pb blaster! also going to get some replacement bolts, you guys want a write up when i get these headers in with pictures?

Koots

PB Blaster is a good choice

It sounds like you may have it easy, but I would fix them ASAP so vibrations don't crack them off flush with the block.

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Unhook your battery and computer before you weld, its not common but I seen a PCM fired from not being unhooked and vehicle welded on last week. For a broken manifold bolt mind you.