Hey guys, my truck has 150k miles on it and this winter I am going to have a lot of free time so I planned on just rebuilding the motor, but then I got to thinking and thought hell I have another vehicle I can use as a DD so why not build a 408. I have seen other budget builds before, and figured hey someone needs to do one for a 408. I have built and helped build mopars and some 350 chevys, but never built a gen3 chevy, just done regular maint. and stuff. Does anyone have or have seen a "parts list" for all the parts need to build the 408? Are there any parts you can use off other motors (LS1, LS2?) or anything? Just looking for some pointers and tips as with a Gen3 motor im lost in building it haha.

Yes I realize that you can not build a 408 for like 1000 bucks, its almost impossible to build any motor for that price, but I am not going for ***** out performance, more of a nice build that will make decent power without spending 6-10 grand on a motor because I know not everyone can do that.

Mike

 

Mike,

I'm planning essentially the same thing. Do an advanced search showing my user name Steve Bryant and you'll see this topic in one form or another several places. I'm leaning toward just having Erik Koenig at HPE in Houston build my short block (I've just bought one fairly inexpensively and I expect that it will be in good condition). I will use the Eagle reciprocating assembly with 4.030" -13cc Mahle pistons to enable me to continue to use 87 octane. I could have it machined locally (I've done the research and picked a really good shop that knows what they are doing), but Erik is extremely sharp and has a lot of LS1 experience. I could do all the assembly work myself as I am a former Detroit Diesel mechanic and I've built up a few engines. But it's hard to beat a pro who knows the nuances and has been through a learning curve. My current plan is to pull my LQ4, pull intake manifold, the heads, the headers, the cam, timing set, oil pump, pan, windage tray, flex plate, and water pump, clean every thing up in my parts washer, and install it all back on my new short block with new gaskets (I already have ARP bolts on the heads, etc. so that is re-usable). I figure that I can do this for a little over $3,000 since I already have a lot of aftermarket stuff that I will reuse, a block, plus my labor. I'll then clean up and bolt my unported heads on my old short block (55,000 miles) and sell it as a long block. Note, there's nothing wrong with my engine, on the contrary, it runs great. But, there's no replacement for displacement.

Steve

 

I'm interested in this also, but more from a 'starting from scratch' perspective. What I'd like to do is plan for the eventual demise of my 5.3L and have something ready to bolt all of the usuable parts off the LM7 onto. What would that be, a short block? What all does a short block consist of? Block + rotating assembly?

 

The short block consists of all of the parts subject to high wear except the heads and valve train. This means the block, main bearing caps, crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons with rings, and the bearings (main crankshaft bearings, rod bearings (big end that fits on the crank throws) and cam bearings). Sometimes a short block includes an oil pump, new timing set (crank and cam sprockets and chain) and a cam. All this can vary, so you need to know what you are getting.

The long block is a short block plus the heads bolted/torqued with pushrods, rocker arms, valves and springs and will include the cam, timing set and oil pump in almost all cases.

The rotating assembly generally refers to the crank, pistons with ring sets (unfilled), connecting rods and bearings (crank and rod).

Steve

 

Steve: 3K ? does that include heads?

 

I would like to try this also, but the only rotating assemblies I can find are forged which = $$$$$$$

 

take a look at this guys, i work at there. i just thought i would put up here


http://cgi.ebay.com/408ci-LS1-Stoker-Motor-Shortblock-Camaro-Trans-Am_W0QQitemZ7995479569QQcategoryZ33615QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

for cost sake I wouldnt bore the 6.0 block just stroke it Im not sure but I think a stroked 6.0 comes out to 402 a negligable difference for 6ci more power wise. Plus the pistons for the bore size might be cheaper. Ive never looked into it Im still years away god forbidding something happens to my 5.3 with only top engine work done

 

No, I will reuse my cast iron heads which I have ported, my push rods, rocker arms, cam, timing set, oil pump, all accessories. I've already got between $2,000 and $3,000 in aftermarket equipment which I will reuse (look over my signature). Look up some ads from sponsors and see what is included on a short block. Now, I will be supplying a rebuildable block, otherwise a block will run $250 to $700.

Steve

 

That's a great set-up you are building Steve! Let us know how HPE works out for you. Houston is only 170 miles from where I live, so I might use them as well when I start my project.

What do you think about the 402 someone suggested above? It seems really pricey to have a block bored if you're only going to get 6 more cu.in. out of it. Or is this information inaccurate?