How much does it cost to bore out a block?

The people I've talked with who seem to favor the 408 vs. the 402 say that you have to hone a 402 anyway, so you may as well bore it out since it's not that much more. I certainly don't know, just repeating what more experienced people have told me.

 

Bump Bump Bump

 

Well, a 6.0 can only be safely bored .060 so if you bore it .030 from the start to get 408, you only have one more rebuild before you are maxed out. But hey, the way some people swap engines around here that probably won't matter.

 

I think boring mine was only like $5 a hole, total machine work for mine and assembly of short block was 400 and i gave the guy $50 for getting it to me quick

 

Mike,
I hope you actually decide to do this. That way when Im ready, I wont make the same mistakes...

Good luck.

Super Joe out

 

You do not "BORE" a block to 408 cubic inches. You are getting the extra cubes from adding a longer stroke crank (4.00" stroke) and with the factory cylnder sizing, comes to 402 cubic inches. If you use the 4.00" stroker crank AND you bore the block .030 over, it will give you the 408 cubic inches that you are refering to. You can not just BORE the block to come up with that many cubes. When rebuilding a motor, most people take their block .030 over, but if you can get away with (your machine shop would be able to tell you if you can) leaving the factory bore, and just a fresh hone, by all means you can do that as well. A buddy of mine I put a motor together for a few years back in his 93 Mustang....had 100K miles on it, but wanted to do a budget buildup...so we reused EVERYTHING as the machine shopped checked everything out, and we just honed the cylinder walls, put in new rings, reused the stock pistons, and new bearings were also installed. That motor now has 170K miles on it with no problems. Are the 6 extra cubes worth it from the 402-408"???? Well, say you re making 1 HP per cubic inch...you are giving up 6 hp, which doe snot sound like alot, BUT, since you are going with a 4" crank, yo have to change pistons, so they may as well be for the extra 6 cubes, as boring a block will typically run @ $80...or $10 a hole, some cheaper, some more expensive. But for $80, while you have the motor apart, I would go with the 6 extra cube....as a bigger cylinder wall unshrouds the valves in the cylinder head which in turn results in better airflow into the cylinder, which in turn produces more torque and HP.....But also, the more serois the motor, the more power those extra cubes will make....say get a killer set of heads, cam and intake, and the motor is making say 500 HP..now you are making 1.23 HP per cubic inch, now those extra cubes are worth 7.38 HP...which still does not sound like alot...but it is more power either way you look at it. Another rant by me....

 

Joe B. whats goin on man? Didnt make it to the races this past Friday and I heard they were the best of the year.


I am really trying my best to the funds to do this, this winter. I might have to sell the sled if it comes down to it, but I really really dont want to do that. Don't worry, I will give you any deals I can come up with through work and stuff haha.

Later

Mike

 

Hey Mike;
If your not in a hurry, don't forget ebay for new parts. I'm gathering goodies right now for a 402, since the stock rods in my 6.0 have decided they don't like being attached to the crank. Mine also, will be rather mild. Picked up 5140 rods good for up to 650hp for under $225 shipped. Just landed je pistons, .927 pins, spiro locks, and file fit plasma moly rings for $500. Have also picked up a lot of stock parts used, so as to be able to have as complete an engine as possible for a quick change. If on ebay looking at stock parts, watch for "grfmotorsports". Fair prices, quality parts. I bought my block from him for $400. 6.0 block with less than .001" of wear in the cylinders, deck and alignment checked also before the sale. If you think you might get some good info. out of the rest of what I'm doing, let me know and I'll gather all the specs. Bob.

 

great info ttt

 

I like what genIII was saying about the extra unshrouding and for a more extreme application the extra .030 over is gonna help. For me it all boils down to money and hp gained per dollar spent. I think for the majority of us that have these motors in streetable vehicles the difference in a 402 and 408 is negligable, a race only trailor truck it would be different.
Another thing about the 408 it seems the stroker kits are more readily available and there is a greater selection of pistons for the kits.
What are some final prices from guys that have built these motors and what they did to keep the expense down. Also how about some dyno numbers from the stroker crowd.