arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

So 2800 for trans and converter isn't far off from the 4K I quoted if he needs shaft(s): 150+, harness 150ish, cross member: 200, conversion u joint 30, cooler and lines 1-200, etc.

doesnt have to spend all 4k on a trans, but he'll spend 4k on a trans

a used motor is what? 1500 on a good day? 2k in heads, 500 in cam and lifters if you shop around, maybe another 5-6 on springs if your heads don't have em, 150 on a trunion kit if you need it, 100 for rockers if you swap head styles and your heads don't come with them. 250 in gaskets, 200 in studs, 100 in pushrods....

I wasn't exaggerating the build, 5-7k on the motor alone will be hard to beat unless you skimp this, buy used that, get a good deal here and there, sell some stuff off: etc

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

for anyone questioning my numbers, I challenge you to meet this goal while A) buying a used motor and B) sourcing heads, cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, rockers w/ trunion. Aka, a fully built top end

if you can do it under 5, that will be impressive and surprising. I'm not being a hater or exaggerating, I'm being realistic with the OPs request. And pointing out that 5-7k is what he's gonna need to achieve this goal

terravast4

iTrader: (25)

i agree with you. Nothing really budget about a 600-700 whp build. You also need to add a posi unit and drive shaft as well.
you also have fueling to consider and whatever forced induction you will be adding as well.

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

Sourcing heads seems like a waste of money when stock 317's on say a 6.0 will make his power goals and he wants it to be a budget minded setup. Cut out the heads and it's ~$1,200 for a cam/pushords/lifters/trunion upgrade and head gaskets. I think he should ignore buying heads.

I went on BTR for rough prices here.

Camshaft $400
Springs $150-200
Pushrods $110
Head Gaskets $100 (LS9 gaskets)
Tunion kit $150.
Lifters (assuming he wants new LS7 lifters) $150

Total ~$1,100 + shipping.

Yes, you can buy the most expensive parts on the market to make things cost way more. I don't feel that anything in that price breakdown was really skimping on anything. Let's go on the high side for a used engine at $1,500 and we are at $2,600ish so far. If he backs down some of his wants the pricing will drop a bunch from the "built top end" engine at $5,000+.

A few times I've done price breakdowns to see what ballpark I'd run into assuming I already had the truck with an engine. Just in the engine before the turbo kit it was often only about $1,500 for the supporting parts/gasket for the parts I wanted for a 500hp truck.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

There's 2 ways to choke a chicken (at least) and the OP said he wanted a built top end

so he can do the tried and true; don't even open it up and let it eat

or he can spend some money (a lot of money) and have his "built" top end

if you select dual wound springs, Manton pushrods, Johnson lifters, Ferrea valves and associated work; it's gonna be like 1500 in parts lol. So how built is built? I dunno

like I said, budget build gets a cam if it's lucky, big injectors, big boost and a good tune

dantheman1540

Nobody mentioned tools either. I have a good collection and yet I still had to buy stuff like a cam degree kit, damper installer, piston ring compressor, valve spring compressor and a ton of brake clean and WD-40. Plus I already had a full set of torque wrenches, engine hoist and engine stand.

So if it's your first engine build tools must be a factor.

RedXray

Exactly... I'd add the cost of HP Tuners into the mix. Sure you might get lucky and your tuner squares you away the first go. You have to remember any modification to air flow and you'll be making another appointment. A good tuner usually has a back log then you'll need to drop the vehicle off, get a ride to and from, and maybe even have to take time off work. HP Tuners scan logs help keep the engine healthy and can be used to tweak a little power here & there. Timing and power enrighment tweaks, tire size change, gear swap, trans shift points along with tcc adjustments etc. I use my HP Tuners quite a lot and dam happy I have it! A professional tuner for a good baseline then HP Tuners to tweak IMO.

madmann26

iTrader: (7)

You also need to add in some specific LS tools, mainly, the front/rear cover alignment tools.

Without them, you run the risk of the front/rear seals leaking.

Now, the flip side,

I’ve swapped my cam a couple of times and don’t have a front cover alignment tool and my front seal has never leaked.

For the rear cover I would definitely use the alignment tool.

Food for thought.

LS cover seals get installed DRY per GM. Don’t fkn lube them no matter what someone says.

At a minimum I would do Summit 5/16 HDR pushrods. These are .105 wall diameter vs the usual .080. No reason to spend money on Manton unless you want the nut swing factor.

Summit makes a lot nice parts for our motors. You might want to check them out.

@Summitracing

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

^he means wall thickness, not diameter

1redta

budget X 2 is what usually happens, I see a lot of great advice in this thread.
i have 1200 deleting AFM with a BTR cam plus 300 in tuning. Then I wanted headers and a y pipe because the stock manifold was leaking near the cat/cov, I still haven’t got a new driveshaft so I won’t go over 100 mph. It all snowballs!! BTW, I did all the work and have a really complete set of tools due to a LT1 T/A and several RX7s