Notices
GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |

Budget LS build

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-15-2020, 08:41 AM
  #21  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
madmann26's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Somewhere north of 285, south of 985.
Posts: 2,985
Received 371 Likes on 299 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by arthursc2
^he means wall thickness, not diameter
Yes, thanks, fixed.
The following users liked this post:
arthursc2 (01-15-2020)
Old 01-15-2020, 09:25 AM
  #22  
LS1Tech Sponsor
 
Summitracing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ohio, Georgia, Nevada, Texas
Posts: 396
Received 182 Likes on 103 Posts
Default

OP, you have been provided with some great info and advice from the community. As others have stated things snowball and budgets often go out the window.

As far as the engine platform we would recommend a Gen 3 iron 5.3 or 6.0. Preferably a 05-07 to get the Gen 4 rods. You might get lucky and find a 5.3 with the Gen 4 rods in your choice of truck. Gen 4 rods will stand up well to boost past your 600-700 whp goal. These motors would be 24x. The trucks you're after would be setup for that so they would play well together. Tuning is going to be key for keeping this alive and well. You could go without head work and spend that money elsewhere. We would also recommend the 4L80E and forgo a manual.

You will need a good camshaft to go with the combo. We would recommend our stage 2 turbo cam SUM-8706 for this build. Specs are .600/.575, 226/230, 113+4. This will have a nice steady lope. It spools quickly, has a strong mid-range and great top-end. You will need some better springs to keep the valvetrain happy. We have PAC 1218 beehive springs through Trickflow TFS-16918-16. Another option would be dual springs. Those would be TFS-2500286P.


Old 01-17-2020, 03:24 PM
  #23  
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
 
Mconcha's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 243
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

For a true budget build, my list would include the following:
1. Single cab short box v-8 00-07 classic (4.8 or 5.3)
2.) ebay head studs and new GM gaskets
3.) turbo 400 trans/ modify factory trans cross member
4.) aftermarket converter 3000+ stall
5.) new drive shaft
6.) Detroil tru trac
7.) 4:30 gears
8.) aftermarket axles
9.) drag radial rear tires on cheeeeep steel wheels
10.) largest drop in fuel pump avalible
11.) aftermarket injectors rated to your desired HP
13.) home brew turbo kit with an ebay 88mm turbo
14.) custom tune
15.) e85 fuel

The list gets longer when you more into detail, but its gonna take you more than 10k to get there for sure.
Old 01-19-2020, 12:26 PM
  #24  
Tig
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Tig's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Earth
Posts: 1,720
Received 21 Likes on 20 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dantheman1540
I think If I were to do it again I would buy a long block built from a reputable shop.
I have come to the conclusion that this is the way to go after reading about other peoples experience.
Then it comes down to, who do you use?
Old 01-19-2020, 01:45 PM
  #25  
TECH Junkie
 
dantheman1540's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: At the dump with a clutch
Posts: 3,133
Received 781 Likes on 571 Posts
Default

There are many reputable online retailers that can ship a crate motor to your door like Summit, Thompson, and Texas Speed. Personally I would give them all a call and speak to someone about what they recommend for your exact goals and future goals. Then I would make a decision based on which shop seemed to care the most. That way if there are issues down the road you know you will get good customer service. Other things to consider are obviously price which waiting until a sale happens is always a smart thing to do. Warranty since some shops will give a 1 year/12k mile warrant or better. Lastly depending on how long you want to wait is lead time. Depending in what you want it could take several weeks for your motor to arrive at your door.

My next motor will likely be a forged LS stroker with torque and future boost in mind. My main question to the shops I will talk to is longevity of a stroker on a stock block vs upgrading to a Dart or GMPP block.
The following users liked this post:
Tig (01-19-2020)
Old 01-19-2020, 01:55 PM
  #26  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
stroker87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 1,210
Received 68 Likes on 61 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by arthursc2
for anyone questioning my numbers, I challenge you to meet this goal while A) buying a used motor and B) sourcing heads, cam, lifters, pushrods, springs, rockers w/ trunion. Aka, a fully built top end

if you can do it under 5, that will be impressive and surprising.
i got this!

$250 used lq4 (sold parts not using for $150 from it) paid $400
$800 machine shop bill cleaned it all up and new rings main and cam bearings (stock internals) arp rod bolts
$370 BTR cam
$150 trunion upgrade
$700 PRC 2.5 243's (used)
$300 machine shop bill for heads
$400 fast 102 truck intake (older grey one)
$160 ls7 lifters
$120 timing chain
$500 gaskets
$3,750 Total


no springs but i have some on hand im going to use and arp head bolts even if i bought some im still under $5k and thats with a fast intake and ported heads

his $7k budget for engine and trans can be done just takes some hunting the best prices mixed in with some 2nd hand parts, right now if i did buy head bolts and springs thats what another $600? that would leave me $2,650 for a trans

now if your the guy that just calls and orders new parts and pays some one to assemble and install every thing not a chance at keeping it under $7k

Old 01-19-2020, 02:04 PM
  #27  
TECH Junkie
 
dantheman1540's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: At the dump with a clutch
Posts: 3,133
Received 781 Likes on 571 Posts
Default

My build started as what I thought was a good deal $1,000 "low mile" 2006 LQ4 "ready for boost". Then quickly spiralled into a full rebuild including new heads because they are both cracked. So I guess I tried to be thrifty and got screwed by liars so I decided to just fork out the money to know my parts aren't trash.

Old 01-19-2020, 02:06 PM
  #28  
TECH Junkie
 
dantheman1540's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: At the dump with a clutch
Posts: 3,133
Received 781 Likes on 571 Posts
Default

Also you didn't count gaskets, fluids or basic shop supplies like WD40, brake clean, rags or tools.

But still you did a good job staying on budget I'm jealous lol.
Old 01-19-2020, 02:22 PM
  #29  
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
 
stroker87's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 1,210
Received 68 Likes on 61 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dantheman1540
Also you didn't count gaskets, fluids or basic shop supplies like WD40, brake clean, rags or tools.

But still you did a good job staying on budget I'm jealous lol.
i added $500 for gaskets in my list but not any fluids or miscellaneous stuff, the engine i bought was a gamble like any used engine it paid off just needed honed cylinders was clean, to be honest i never really set a budget just keep an eye out for parts i want at a price i like and if guys are local i take cash and try to negotiate a little cash helps, some stuff i wont buy used like oil pump, timing chain and lifters

i had previous projects get away from me, i learned from my mistakes and just have a idea on what it should cost and make purchases when my "go fast funds" support it
The following users liked this post:
dantheman1540 (01-19-2020)
Old 01-19-2020, 03:12 PM
  #30  
TECH Junkie
 
dantheman1540's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: At the dump with a clutch
Posts: 3,133
Received 781 Likes on 571 Posts
Default

Totally would have seen the $500 in gaskets if I could read
The following users liked this post:
arthursc2 (01-19-2020)


Quick Reply: Budget LS build



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:18 PM.