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Bump stick/TQ

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Old 07-02-2005, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by tdrumm
Cam selection is full of give and takes.

A higher LSA will give you a smoother idle, but move the powerband up, where a lower LSA will help give better low end and idle worse.

As durations increase, so does power, but the power band is also moved higher in the rpm range.

Increased lift is like free horsepower with these Gen III motors.

For your big heavy Av, I'd stick with something on the small side, like a comp 206/212 or 212/218, one of Vinci High Performance small cams like the 044, 047, or 062, or Thunder Racing's Old Man cam.

For a stall many people drive 3000 stalls daily, and if you don't want to donate an organ to buy a Yank, you could get a TCI SF3000. They're a little over $400.

An even cheaper option is the factory Trailblazer converter which stalls to around 2500. You can get them for like $300 including the core charge which you have to eat. Some people have used the Daaco rebuilt factory converters which are similar to a Trailblazer but cost like $175.
Thanks td....I'm starting to get a better grasp on this whole CAM thing..cool

Dave
Old 07-02-2005, 07:35 AM
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I've owned 2 different Yank converters with excellant results and I highly recommend a TT3000 with a 5.3 in a heavy truck.I ran the TT3000 in my Tahoe,it gave a nice increase in accellaration with very good drivablity.My results with a TCI converter were less than acceptable.I suspect the weight of the truck contributed to the problems I had with the TCI converters of which I had 2,TCI replaced the first one and refunded my money on the second.You get what you pay for,the Yank is hard to beat.I've also run a Vigilante with good results ,but not with a stock displacement engine.
Old 07-02-2005, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TDRUMM
Cam selection is full of give and takes.

A higher LSA will give you a smoother idle, but move the powerband up, where a lower LSA will help give better low end and idle worse.

As durations increase, so does power, but the power band is also moved higher in the rpm range.

Increased lift is like free horsepower with these Gen III motors.

For your big heavy Av, I'd stick with something on the small side, like a comp 206/212 or 212/218, one of Vinci High Performance small cams like the 044, 047, or 062, or Thunder Racing's Old Man cam.


i'm with tdrumm. the Avalanche looks like a pretty heavy ride. a smaller duration or closer LSA will keep the peak torque down in the lower rpm ranges as opposed to the monster durations or wider LSA. the plus to the tighter LSA or longer exhaust duration is the rumpty rumpty rump rump note your truck will have.
Old 07-02-2005, 07:37 PM
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So what will make more sense?

TQ on a stock cam or aftermarket cam on a stock TQ?

Dave
Old 07-02-2005, 08:12 PM
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tq on stock cam.. just my .02
Old 07-02-2005, 09:14 PM
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I was impressed at the numbers of the Thunder Racing Cams. I was looking at the dyno sheets on their web site. The "old man cam" for the truck produced about 40 plus horse power. I do not know the specifics of the truck, but damn. And it just gets better from there.

How hard is it to install a cam and the accesories needed? I have never worked on a car engine before, I have rebuilt my ATV (2-stroke) engines. Just curious how difficult it is.

I tow and need to use my truck as the same daily driver as NJAV. I was looking at the Old Man Cam for this reason. However, I do plan on installing a RADIX Eventually, so I may wait and get something compatible.

Excuse me, just rambling.
Old 07-02-2005, 11:20 PM
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Buddy of mine on the Av forums has the following setup and seems to be happy with it...the Vinci 045 "the trucker" cam w/ the 1.7 quick lift rockers...he even had Vinci's shop install w/ new dbl springs, seats, push rods, 165 stat, and dbl roller timing set up.
Old 07-03-2005, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by OCBC
How hard is it to install a cam and the accesories needed? I have never worked on a car engine before, I have rebuilt my ATV (2-stroke) engines. Just curious how difficult it is.

I tow and need to use my truck as the same daily driver as NJAV. I was looking at the Old Man Cam for this reason. However, I do plan on installing a RADIX Eventually, so I may wait and get something compatible.

Excuse me, just rambling.
Working in these engines is very easy. Check out LS1 how to for a good article on installing a cam.

If you seriously want to do a Radix later, it might better to get a cam that will be good with it. Some of the popular radix cams here are the Lingenfelter GT2-3, Comp 216/220, and a guy here by the name NakedAV had a custom cam ground by Cam Motion for the Radix and stock converter that is 205/212.
Old 07-03-2005, 12:25 PM
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Alright, I checked out the ls1 cam install. Thats a little more than I may want to bite off. WOuld you need to remove the radiator on the trucks? I am assuming you remove it to have enough room to pull out the cam, just curious if its the same for a truck.
Anyone have a price range on getting a cam installed?

thanks
Old 07-03-2005, 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by OCBC
Alright, I checked out the ls1 cam install. Thats a little more than I may want to bite off. WOuld you need to remove the radiator on the trucks? I am assuming you remove it to have enough room to pull out the cam, just curious if its the same for a truck.
Anyone have a price range on getting a cam installed?

thanks
I removed my radiator when I did mine, but some guys just lift and bungee them up. The a/c condenser stays in It's not a bad job if you're mechanically inclined and take your time...I recommend using something like the JPR tool, dowels, or pen magnets to hold the lifters up though...the Russian Roulet method is a little scary to me. If a lifter falls, that head has to come off to retrieve it. I'm not sure about install prices though.


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