Notices
GM Engine & Exhaust Performance EFI | GEN I/GEN II/GEN III/GEN IV Engines |Small Block | Big Block |

a/c causes engine to stumble

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 05-11-2011, 08:37 AM
  #21  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
 
MikeGyver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 4,421
Received 199 Likes on 156 Posts
Default

If the compressor seems to be locking each time, it might be slugging liquid refrigerant. There is the possibility of an overcharged A/C system, air in the system, a plugged orifice tube, or all three. The only way to check is to evacuate the system and weigh in the correct amount of R134a.
Old 05-11-2011, 07:52 PM
  #22  
PT's Slowest Truck
iTrader: (19)
 
budhayes3's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Hackensack, NJ
Posts: 17,863
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 03 BLACKOUTSSS
The tuning could very well be an issue, but I don't know enough about it to tell you where to start. I can't imagine installing the blower would require any changes to the AC tables, but again, I have no idea. Personally, I would look at the AC first. what you are describing sounds alot like a compressor thats going bad (clutch partially locking up) and/or there is too much/not enough freon in the system. With the car OFF, you should have about 65 psi on BOTH the high and low side. With it operational, you should have about 30 on the low side, and 90-110 on the high. If there is too much in the system, the compressor will be drawing extra power, trying to compress it for cold air, and it will feel like what you are describing.
Actually those numbers are a little low...ambient temperature plays a big role in what the pressures will be, and on a R134a system, the high side can often be up to 250psi on a humid 90+* day. The low side will usually be between 30-40 psi when operational, and static pressures can range from 75-90 depending on ambient temp. When reading R134a, or R-12 manifold gauges, you should have the engine running between 1200-1500 RPM for accurate readings.

If there was too little R-134a in the system, the compressor would either cycle on and off constantly, or not at all. If overfilled, the compressor may get slugged like Mike suggested. If way over-filled, the high pressure switch will not allow compressor operation at all, or may quickly shut it off.

In our shop which is generally around 70*F, I usually see 30-35psi on the low side and 200-225psi on the high side with the engine running at 1500 RPM.
Old 05-15-2011, 04:48 AM
  #23  
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
 
LS1TRUCKGUY's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Deer Park Texas
Posts: 2,452
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by budhayes3
Well it appears that there are multiple possibilities, but the first thing that I would look at is the tune. LS1TRUCKGUY, it may be possible that your throttle body and IAC are dirty, and the throttle body isn't getting the true amount of air as it should. If you haven't cleaned your tb in a while, I'd give it a shot. If it doesn't help, all you lost was a little throttle body cleaner, and you got a little preventive maintenance done
they have been cleaned with no affect. there was no change in conditions when i put a ported/polished tb on either.... i have check high and low side pressures and they are good as well, but the last time i drove my truck for more than 1.5hrs, the a/c started blowing a little warmer than usual. So i would need to evacuate the system and do what else to check for a plugged orifice?
Old 05-15-2011, 11:38 AM
  #24  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
 
MikeGyver's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Suburban Chicago
Posts: 4,421
Received 199 Likes on 156 Posts
Default

When you weigh-in the correct amount of freeze gas, according to the label on the truck, the pressures will tell you if the orifice is clogged. If it's clogged the pressure on the suction side will be way too low, maybe even in a vacuum. That is when Mr. Goodwrench replaces the orifice tube and starts over, and Mr. Shadetree keeps dumping in more refrigerant until the suction pressure looks reasonable.
Old 05-16-2011, 01:17 PM
  #25  
Custm2500's Rude Friend
iTrader: (17)
 
1FastBrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: JunkYard
Posts: 14,383
Received 786 Likes on 652 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by MikeGyver
When you weigh-in the correct amount of freeze gas, according to the label on the truck, the pressures will tell you if the orifice is clogged. If it's clogged the pressure on the suction side will be way too low, maybe even in a vacuum. That is when Mr. Goodwrench replaces the orifice tube and starts over, and Mr. Shadetree keeps dumping in more refrigerant until the suction pressure looks reasonable.
I would replace it any way. Just about every system I have taken apart for service it is usually dirty... doesn't mean it won't work but for the small amount of $ they cost and the 5-10 minutes it takes to change it, why not.
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mossyoakglock
GMT 900 Trucks General Discussion
4
08-28-2015 12:49 PM
05GMC4.8
GMT 900 Trucks General Discussion
5
08-07-2015 09:55 PM
creekrat
Tuning, Diagnostics, Electronics, and Wiring
1
08-02-2015 01:27 AM
Mossyoakglock
GMT 900 Trucks General Discussion
0
07-17-2015 08:30 AM



Quick Reply: a/c causes engine to stumble



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:41 AM.