ok, im just wanting to check this out, i currently have the full k&n fipk setup myself, but after reading on here, I would like to go back to stock with modified box, and eventually get an airraid tube as well. but what kind of drop in filters are you guys running. prefer something that doesnt need to be oiled, or is the ac delco filter fine? any help, and pics of that setup is appreciated

 

I'd check and see what Amsoil has to offer for a dry, cleanable, replacement filter...

 

The only thing with cars is that due to them weighing less than our trucks, any increase will be just slightly more noticeable. But overall, no, any of the gains will really just feel like better throttle response.
If you check that cold air thread posted earlier where they dyno'ed results of different intakes available, the variations between the different intakes were rather small that it comes down to a matter of preference.
Lets face it, the stock intakes in these trucks flow pretty darn well, and with just the swap of a cai without anything else added to the equation, the results wont really be felt (no additional neck snappage), they will just be heard (added intake noise).

 

Just running the aem seems to work purty good in cold weather.

 

This may be a bit difficult to see but this is a screen shot of the IAT timing table that is in charge of pulling timing due to high IATs. Its a totally stock 01 5.3 tune(already had it saved) as you can see, at 89*s its already starting to pull timing. Hopefully for the guys that have an aftermarket tune, your tuner adjusted this table as the table doesnt need to be quite that aggressive nor start pulling timing that low. Ive been doing a lot of reading on EFIs site and it seems most for NA apps start pulling timing in the 104+ line which is what Ive got mine set close to.

According to that table on a hot summer day if youve been sitting in traffic for a while your IATs will probably be in the 122 range so if you nail it from the light youre going to be down 5*s until air gets going in there and lowers your IATs. The more of a heat sink you have the longer its going to take to get lower(numerically) in that chart. Thats why I want an open element filter so it cools off as soon as possible.

 

So if that is the table close to mine... it starts pulling timing from idle for me. My IAT is always above 85* (tropical island)

 

but whats up with that idler pulley directly under the alternator? ive never seen the belt routing like that before?

 

Wheatley is a great tuner and Im sure he knows to take care of that table, I wouldnt worry if I were you. It was more of a warning to other self tuners, Im a newbe to tuning myself and its something I probably wouldve overlooked.

 

Put your stock box back in, drill some bigass holes in the bottom and run a piece is 3.5" sch10 PVC for your tube and get whatever silicone couplers you want to connect it all. This is the cheapest way I've seen to do it, and will be right there power-wise with the name brand CAI setups. Do Not get aluminum/stainless tubing... Plastic will insulate, not conduct

 

Also, if you have a dremel tool, you can take the lid off the stock box, where it necks into the outlet to go into the MAF and tube. There are always rough edges and abrasions in the neck. I always smooth that area out and get rid of all the rough edges. Might not make that much of a difference, but every little bit helps IMO. Just don't go too far with it and burn a hole thru the neck.