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Old 03-11-2006, 02:09 PM
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Default cam is in

I spent all night installing my new cam, rods, springs and rollers. And I dont like it. Its been a few hours of driving around to relearn the computer that I got from neslons performance that is program for the above. And it sounds and drives like ****. Its hard to start and stay running. It feels as if its misfiring. Went to the Auto parts store and used there scanner, twice already. What could be the problem. How did you guys install your rollers. I used the studs and plates that they came with and tossed the factory stuff. i torgued the studs to something like 22 or 26 and the rollers where torqued according to the shop manual. Im not sure how the poly locks work. T

The cam specs are
.581 intake and .588 exhaust/ 224, 228/ lobe sep 114.

I have K&N CAIT, Gran. MAF, PAcesetter long tubes, stock cats, true duals with twin 18" Magnaflows.

And the engine sounds terrible.
Spits and putters when I pull off. Top end runs good.

The codes I got the second time where:
PO101 MAF or VAF CKT Range/Perf
PO172 System Too Rich (Bank 1)
PO175 System too RICh ( Bank 2)

What do you think?

Need to fix it before I go back to work on Sunday night.
Old 03-11-2006, 04:20 PM
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overtorquing the rocker arms on mine made it miss & run like crap. Are you using aftermarket rockers? are they the adjustable ones? If they are stock or stock style non adjustable, I would try retorquing them to 22ft lbs
Old 03-11-2006, 07:36 PM
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thats why i like stock RR's lol.. they are simple to bolt on and work well. But they need to be tq'ed to 22ft lbs

check all the vaccum lines and make sure you hooked them all back up.. vaccum leaks can cuase crappy idle.

when you rev up to like 2500-3k does the engine smooth out and sound good? Is idle the only issue? Im guessing you have a 224/228 cam? I cant tell by how you listed the specs. Oh and its a cam, its gonna have a misfire feel cause it is misfiring LOL. Thats how you get the sound

If its idle, then nelson will have to adjusr the idle rpms or you can turn the setscrew to open to TB blade up some or drill the TB hole 1-2 sizes up so the truck gets more air. But be careful cause to much causes a cruise control idle effect
Old 03-11-2006, 08:32 PM
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disconnect maf and then hook it backup and see if that helps, the granatelli maf suxs, talking from experience, put the stock one back on and i bet it runs ten times better JMO, good luck.
Old 03-11-2006, 10:04 PM
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Your valves are probably way out of adjustment, at least that is what I suspect from the limited info you are giving. If those are the fully adjustable rockers that I'm thinking of, you won't find how to adjust them in a shop manual for your engine. They have to be adjusted with preload like old style small block chevy's. I don't have enough time to explain that here. That info can be found anywhere. To properly install the poly locks back out the center lock stud with an allen wrench. Adjust lifter preload, then tighten the allen screw down while holding the nut. You want the poly lock pretty tight to keep it from backing off. The poly lock jams the nut and the stud to prevent the nut from backing off.
How about a link to a pic of them or take a pic of them yourself and post it so we can help you a little better.
Old 03-12-2006, 07:21 AM
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So perhaps I should take the poly locks out and then install the arms the old way with finding zero lash and then a 1/2 turn more and then put the locks on tight.

Cam degreeing
Do they make a degree wheel that can be used in with the engine still in the truck without taking the heads off. I would like to add an adjustable timing chain and degree the cam later on.

Any reason why I got codes PO172 and PO175 system too rich in Bank 1 and 2
or PO101 MAF or VAf CKT Range/ Perf. I think I got that last one from cleaning the motor off and possibly got some water in there.
Old 03-12-2006, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by jus1975
So perhaps I should take the poly locks out and then install the arms the old way with finding zero lash and then a 1/2 turn more and then put the locks on tight.

Cam degreeing
Do they make a degree wheel that can be used in with the engine still in the truck without taking the heads off. I would like to add an adjustable timing chain and degree the cam later on.

Any reason why I got codes PO172 and PO175 system too rich in Bank 1 and 2
or PO101 MAF or VAf CKT Range/ Perf. I think I got that last one from cleaning the motor off and possibly got some water in there.
1st with todays cnc machining degreeing a cam is highly over rated unless you want to change the intake centerline for whatever reason.
2nd, yes you will have to adjust the valves the traditional way. For some reason the gen 3 engines are a little harder to adjust the valves so I've read. They use the same lifters as a gen 1 hydraulic roller engine so I can't see why the lifters would act differently as some say. There is a detailed writeup on a chevy hi performance article i know. I'd try the traditional way first. You don't have to remove the set screws in the poly locks entirely, just back them out untill the almost come out to make sure they don't bottom out when you are adjusting. Make sure you have each cyl at top dead center on the compression stroke while you are adjusting, in case you didn't know.
Old 03-12-2006, 07:58 AM
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I think I can still follow the sequence of tighting the rockers in the manual. It said to find TDC on #1 and tighten number such and such intake and then rotate crank 360degrees and do the same for # such and such exhaust. I dont have the manual in front of me but its something like that. I guess this will be ok. What do you think? From what I remember I dont think you can get your fingers on the pushrods because of the wall of the heads. Theres not enough space. We will see in about an hour or so. I talked my dad into helping me. I just have to listen to alot of **** talking about building killer big blocks back in the day.
I have always had problems finding TDC on compression, but here we go.
I can do all this without taking off the entire front end of the engine again do I. I wouldn't think so.
Old 03-12-2006, 09:11 AM
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with the stock rockers we just tq them down and come back and check them later one to make sure none got loose. Medium strength locktite should be applied also for safety

im lost as to what you mean about the pushrods? You can pull them out with the rockers and valve covers off with yoru fingers:-P

personally, i'd put the stock rockers back on cause ive always thought aftermarket ones were a waste of cash for what, if anything they do. Unless you have 1.8's? But then its much easier just to get a cam with the extra lift ground in
Old 03-12-2006, 11:47 AM
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well puting the stock ones back on is out of the question. Aftermarket roller tips is alays better thatn stamped steel. Less friction.


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