Cam question
07-30-2009, 06:01 AM
#21
Got ya, as I look more and more into this cam im getting closer to choosing it. I read a couple threads on this cam with the 5.3 and the guy ran the dyno before and after and showed pretty much no loss at the lower end, and alot of gain in the upper end. it sounds like it idles a little choppy, but not too much for a daily driver which I like.
comp cams camquest program recommends a 2100-3100 rpm stall for my truck with that cam. is that realistic or should I go for around 3200 or more like recommended earlier on this thread? I dont want too much stall, but at the same time want to take advantage of the added mid-high horsepower from the cam.
also, other that better lifters and pushrods, what else should I do while installing the cam? will my factory valve springs be ok with the cam?
comp cams camquest program recommends a 2100-3100 rpm stall for my truck with that cam. is that realistic or should I go for around 3200 or more like recommended earlier on this thread? I dont want too much stall, but at the same time want to take advantage of the added mid-high horsepower from the cam.
also, other that better lifters and pushrods, what else should I do while installing the cam? will my factory valve springs be ok with the cam?
Get the LS6 springs, hardened 7.4 push rods, the cam, 2 gal of antifreeze, crank bolt, and that's it. You'll reuse all of the other gaskets.
07-30-2009, 09:24 AM
#22
Yeah, I might justwait on a stall converter and just focus on the cam. On the gen III motor do you have to take the oil pan off like on the classic chevy smallblock? also, I will have the heads checked out since I will have them off. Anything you would recommend I do with the heads other than maybe springs?
A cam swap is super easy to do, just time consuming. The "hardest" part is replacing the springs, stay away from a crowbar style compressor, just get Tim's Tool (try a search on it) or get a Crane Tool if you have enough $$$.
07-30-2009, 10:43 AM
#23
[QUOTE=brandon_6667;4256254 . . On the gen III motor do you have to take the oil pan off like on the classic chevy smallblock? also, I will have the heads checked out since I will have them off. Anything you would recommend I do with the heads other than maybe springs?[/QUOTE]
USE THE SEARCH ! . . . search for "cam swap"
Intake and heads stay on for a cam swap.
Don't touch the oil pump unless you want all kinds of issues later on.
Lifters can be held up with wooden dowel rods . . . not magnets
No need to remove the oil pan, just remove the water pump, pulley, intake tube, drain the rad fluid and you're set. Take the front cover off and and use a sharpie to mark the timing chain position, it will be easier to align later. Get some pen magnets to keep the lifters up or you can do the russian roulette method at your own risk.
A cam swap is super easy to do, just time consuming. The "hardest" part is replacing the springs, stay away from a crowbar style compressor, just get Tim's Tool (try a search on it) or get a Crane Tool if you have enough $$$.
A cam swap is super easy to do, just time consuming. The "hardest" part is replacing the springs, stay away from a crowbar style compressor, just get Tim's Tool (try a search on it) or get a Crane Tool if you have enough $$$.
Intake and heads stay on for a cam swap.
Don't touch the oil pump unless you want all kinds of issues later on.
Lifters can be held up with wooden dowel rods . . . not magnets
07-30-2009, 10:57 AM
#24
Magnets work excellent, dowels is just another option.
07-30-2009, 12:46 PM
#28
Mark the timing chain, sprocket to the chain, is just to ease reassembly. Easier AND faster than trying to align the dots, it's a no brainer IMO.
