jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

I think you guys want to know more about the
TCC than us car dudes. My TCI clutch is kind
of low on holding power. A light, strip-oriented
converter doesn't need much of a clutch but
if you want to tow a boat uphill it wants a
whole lot more - like multi-disc clutch and
probably not a little 10" diameter either. The
car converter makers don't usually talk a lot
about the clutch qualities (maybe a little
about material if it makes it sound "sexy").
But if you're looking for a plow horse, a race
horse isn't likely the right bet.

The SLP 2600 is stock diameter and that means
probably 100% more clutch face area than the
10" high-stall types out there.

Best way to beat the heat, is to not generate it.
I got 30 extra degrees of tranny temp just
dragging my skinny *** up Florida hills with the
TCI. And Florida hills ain't nuthin but bumps.

spearfish3

That looks good. I wonder how much $$ they are asking for it. It looks like a pretty nice setup though. The tru-cool has an internal bypass valve that prevents the coolant temp getting too low. Thanks for yalls help.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

$210

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...23354%20305183

marc_w

Less pedal/effort go get the weight rolling along...

I never heard any complaints about heat, and I did a lot of whining about that concern.

Mr. Sandog

I don't see how a 2600 converter (that doesnt' get moving until 2600 RPM's under load) would take less engine effort to get moving than my stock ~900 RPM converter. Again, I may be missing something here, but I don't see where.

And I don't think people are talking about highway speeds (when any converter would be locked up) when they are talking about heat; I think they are talking about hills, passing, etc, when the converter is unlocked.

marc_w

Maybe it's just the impression that I get driving it... It feels quite loose compared to my stock converter. Get on it from a stop, and the RPM's pretty much shoot right up to the 2K's.

marc_w

I think the stock coverter is rated for about 1,600 or so... I can get mine up to 1,800 on the brakes.

With the 2600, it has a higher STR than the stock converter. It will slip a bit more, but it won't hit 2,600 unless you really get your foot into it from a deat stop. (at least that's how it was explained to me). So combine the higher STR, with a few hundred more RPM, and you'll be making a fair amount more torque to get things moving.

Yeah, I specifically asked about sitting in stop and go traffic in 90* weather, with the camper and a full load of gear in tow.

My tranny temps went up after doing the e-fans. (I think they provide poor airflow over the factory tranny cooler). On hot days, fooling around, they peak just over 160 indicated and scanned. Last time I towed the camper (on the stock converter), my tranny temps never went above that (indicated).

marc_w

In regards to diesels, I pulled this off a diesel site: "Most original equipment torque converters allow the engine to rev up far beyond the peak torque output of the engine, usually around 2200 Rpm’s."

Mr. Sandog

Your criteria for rating the stock stall is to do a brake stand, yet your criteria for rating the aftermarket stall is to ease into it. You're doing a really good job of talking yourself into a higher stall converter...which is fine, if that's what you want to do. Far be it for me to get between a man and his desires...

But where I come from, there's no such thing as a free lunch. If you want trouble-free towing at or near stock capacity, you really need to stick with the stock converter.

James B.

iTrader: (1)

Good info, thanks.

Maybe they do it to spool the turbo faster.

I guess this is why there are aftermarket converters for towing with lower than stock stall speeds. Most are called "RV converters."