budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Missed the sarcasm....I need a smiley that smacks itself in the face lol

BuyAmericanIron

Bud, you are having a hell of a time with this thread! I have never seen you post mis-information. Some very good information has come out of this one, thanks. I fully agree about the Fram filters. I would not use Fram on a wheel barrow. I personally stick with Wix, AC Delco or Purolator. With Wix and Purolator, always go with the higher quality filter and not the cheap one.

Dewey

iTrader: (1)

FWIW i use K&N filters. they are pricey but worth it in my humble opinion. I run royal purple 10-30 too. I agree that with a good synthetic you can easily go 12 months/12k miles.

+1 fram is junk

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Yea, I really screwed the pooch on this one...should've stayed out of this thread all together. I whole-heartedly apologize for any mis-information that I may have posted. I did A LOT of research on oil and filters a few years ago, but since I switched to Mobil1 filters (been running Mobil1 oil and AC-Delco filters since day1 until they discontined every long filter available with an anti-drainback valve), and my truck broke down a year ago yesterday (trans that I'm slowly paying off as outlined in my sig ), I've kind of been out of the loop as far as oil and filter technology goes...gotta stay current with this stuff as it changes on a daily basis. I can't remember where I heard that the aftermarket got different filters, but I know that I heard it more than once and from sources in the auto industry as I have worked in dealerships since I was in high school. Maybe it was a rumor running around the industry, but I believed it to be true enough that I always got my filters from the dealer just to be safe. If I ever switch back to AC-Delco, I'd continue to get them from the dealer until someone did a recent side by side comparison, comparing both markings and cutting them open, as I do remember seeing pics of aftermarket and factory filters side by side and the aftermarket element was visually inferior...may have just been a Champion or Purolator compared to a Mexican that was bought on the outside, who knows.

When I did do my research, I got a lot of good info here:

www.bobistheoilguy.com

Excellent site with a bunch of good info, I'd recommend this site to anyone who is interested or concerned about what they're putting in their engine

Once again, sorry if I mis-lead anyone, I definitely don't like posting mis-information

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Here's a useful link:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

And this is an old one but there's still something to be learned in here:
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

Why is my ??? If people change there oil out every 3-4k the point of changing to a synthectic oil is pointless, other then you being able to go longer in between oil changes.. I run good old castrol... My oil on the changes looks pretty damn good, i get lazy sometimes and have went 5k in between...

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

Yea, you'll be fine with conventional oil changed at the proper intervals, but having the best stuff in there help some people sleep at night. There are other advantages of synthetic oil, such as their superior resistance to thermal breakdown, but if you're running hot enough to break the oil down, you've got other problems lol.

Here's a Car Craft article that I just dug up...more reading for those interested:

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...oil/index.html

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

On topic about syn oil, the OP asked about switching to syn, which has been a common practice of drivers for years without problem. What about a brand new engine? What I've learned from some reputable engine builders is that synthetic oil isn't good for a brand new engine that is about to undergo break-in as they have too low of a friction co-efficient to allow for the normal wear that is necessary to allow the rings to seat properly. They like to run dino oil for engine break in, and run dino for the first 500-1000 miles until the engine has run in, and then switch to syn.

Mangled03gmc

iTrader: (95)

I have often heard to use a very heavy oil, such as diesel oil for initial engine break in..

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

I have to ask my pop what he uses to break in his race engines...I'm thinking it's Rotella or something like that, but I'm not 100% sure...I can picture the cases of oil lined up in his trailer (for the race car), but I can't see the name on them lol...

*EDIT* It was Rotella, that's what he used to use, then they changed their formula. He now uses Brad Penn 30weight Performance Engine Break-In Oil, which is an old Kendall formula, but is not in a Kendall package. It is a dino oil with a lot of good additives that promote proper engine break-in. Also, the syn oils are no good for break in as they are loaded with Moly which acts as an insulator between the piston rings and cylinder wall and does not allow the rings to wear in and seat properly.