changing to syntheic oil
#21
PT's Slowest Truck
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They are absolutely junk. You didn't get the post and the sarcasm. I meant I would use Fram only if and when all the major manufacturers went to cardboard endcaps. So far Fram is the only one in the industry to use them. That tells me because all the others could make a filter cheaper and refuse to do so Fram is junk as most everybody says.
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#22
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Bud, you are having a hell of a time with this thread! I have never seen you post mis-information. Some very good information has come out of this one, thanks. I fully agree about the Fram filters. I would not use Fram on a wheel barrow. I personally stick with Wix, AC Delco or Purolator. With Wix and Purolator, always go with the higher quality filter and not the cheap one.
#23
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FWIW i use K&N filters. they are pricey but worth it in my humble opinion. I run royal purple 10-30 too. I agree that with a good synthetic you can easily go 12 months/12k miles.
+1 fram is junk
+1 fram is junk
#24
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Bud, you are having a hell of a time with this thread! I have never seen you post mis-information. Some very good information has come out of this one, thanks. I fully agree about the Fram filters. I would not use Fram on a wheel barrow. I personally stick with Wix, AC Delco or Purolator. With Wix and Purolator, always go with the higher quality filter and not the cheap one.
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When I did do my research, I got a lot of good info here:
www.bobistheoilguy.com
Excellent site with a bunch of good info, I'd recommend this site to anyone who is interested or concerned about what they're putting in their engine
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Once again, sorry if I mis-lead anyone, I definitely don't like posting mis-information
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#25
PT's Slowest Truck
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Here's a useful link:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
And this is an old one but there's still something to be learned in here:
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html
And this is an old one but there's still something to be learned in here:
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfi...lterstudy.html
#26
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Why is my ??? If people change there oil out every 3-4k the point of changing to a synthectic oil is pointless, other then you being able to go longer in between oil changes.. I run good old castrol... My oil on the changes looks pretty damn good, i get lazy sometimes and have went 5k in between...
#27
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Why is my ??? If people change there oil out every 3-4k the point of changing to a synthectic oil is pointless, other then you being able to go longer in between oil changes.. I run good old castrol... My oil on the changes looks pretty damn good, i get lazy sometimes and have went 5k in between...
Here's a Car Craft article that I just dug up...more reading for those interested:
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...oil/index.html
#28
PT's Slowest Truck
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On topic about syn oil, the OP asked about switching to syn, which has been a common practice of drivers for years without problem. What about a brand new engine? What I've learned from some reputable engine builders is that synthetic oil isn't good for a brand new engine that is about to undergo break-in as they have too low of a friction co-efficient to allow for the normal wear that is necessary to allow the rings to seat properly. They like to run dino oil for engine break in, and run dino for the first 500-1000 miles until the engine has run in, and then switch to syn.
Last edited by budhayes3; 11-23-2009 at 08:56 PM.
#30
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I have to ask my pop what he uses to break in his race engines...I'm thinking it's Rotella or something like that, but I'm not 100% sure...I can picture the cases of oil lined up in his trailer (for the race car), but I can't see the name on them lol...
*EDIT* It was Rotella, that's what he used to use, then they changed their formula. He now uses Brad Penn 30weight Performance Engine Break-In Oil, which is an old Kendall formula, but is not in a Kendall package. It is a dino oil with a lot of good additives that promote proper engine break-in. Also, the syn oils are no good for break in as they are loaded with Moly which acts as an insulator between the piston rings and cylinder wall and does not allow the rings to wear in and seat properly.
*EDIT* It was Rotella, that's what he used to use, then they changed their formula. He now uses Brad Penn 30weight Performance Engine Break-In Oil, which is an old Kendall formula, but is not in a Kendall package. It is a dino oil with a lot of good additives that promote proper engine break-in. Also, the syn oils are no good for break in as they are loaded with Moly which acts as an insulator between the piston rings and cylinder wall and does not allow the rings to wear in and seat properly.
Last edited by budhayes3; 11-23-2009 at 10:31 PM.