Check it out: My junkyard electric fan install and homemade intake tubing
#11
Originally Posted by Qwik03
Looks good but you need to loose the factory air box.
My 4" "Oxidizer" Home Depot intake worked great and cost me less than $30.00.
My 4" "Oxidizer" Home Depot intake worked great and cost me less than $30.00.
Also, on my 2000 GMC removing the little flap in front of the airbox, near the grill. I think that was dyno'd to be worth 1hp. Ill take 1hp
#12
So lose the stock airbox eh???
Hmm... what inlet size (where it necks down) did you use? 3" or 4" ???
Also, what length did you use?!
I'm gonna order that $30 ebay kit.
thanks guys!
Hmm... what inlet size (where it necks down) did you use? 3" or 4" ???
Also, what length did you use?!
I'm gonna order that $30 ebay kit.
thanks guys!
#13
Well, I've decided to do something a little unique. I didn't like the quality of the el-cheapo ebay heatshields. Plus, they were all made of metal - NOT GOOD! After researching ebay, I came across this picture of a Dakota airbox by VOLANT:
What I am going to do, is cut a hole in the bottom of the stock airbox to accept a dryer duct ramair setup. I am also going to cut the metal plate under the stock airbox as well.
In addition to the ramair setup, I'm going to drill small 5/16" holes in the bottom of the stock airbox to give the motor something to breathe out of when the car is not moving (ie. when the ramair is not functioning).
I have read several negative accounts of ram air setups. NO WONDER!! Around town, or at a standstill, the motor simply cannot breathe. It has to breathe through several feat of dryer ducting. I will solve this by drilling 5/16" holes in the airbox in addition to running a ramair setup!!
What I am going to do, is cut a hole in the bottom of the stock airbox to accept a dryer duct ramair setup. I am also going to cut the metal plate under the stock airbox as well.
In addition to the ramair setup, I'm going to drill small 5/16" holes in the bottom of the stock airbox to give the motor something to breathe out of when the car is not moving (ie. when the ramair is not functioning).
I have read several negative accounts of ram air setups. NO WONDER!! Around town, or at a standstill, the motor simply cannot breathe. It has to breathe through several feat of dryer ducting. I will solve this by drilling 5/16" holes in the airbox in addition to running a ramair setup!!
#14
14 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (31)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,619
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From: Chicago, Il
Over time that upper fan mount will rub through the radiator from the vibration of the fan and truck. It looks like it is resting on the fins already. What I do is open up a small section of the fins and put in a piece of vacuum line that is the right size, that isolates the hard plastic tie from the radiator.
Also, is that a Taurus fan? It looks like the one I got for my S10, and that thing flows a lot of air.
Also, is that a Taurus fan? It looks like the one I got for my S10, and that thing flows a lot of air.
#15
Also, is that a Taurus fan? It looks like the one I got for my S10, and that thing flows a lot of air.
#19
Ram Air Is Only Effective @ 100+ MPH.
Unless you are going 100mph or more, all you are getting is cooler air. I learned this many years ago having a 1970 Road Runner 440 6 pack with the pop up air scoop and from a Mopar performance engineer.
The Road Runner was a heavily breathed on by the dealership as a State Trooper Interceptor. 1/4 mile in 13.9 @ 106 mph and would keep climbing. A real fast stump puller she was.
The Road Runner was a heavily breathed on by the dealership as a State Trooper Interceptor. 1/4 mile in 13.9 @ 106 mph and would keep climbing. A real fast stump puller she was.
#20
although ram air may only be effective for true air flow performance at an above speed. the true effect it has is colling the inlet air quicker so the iat is cooler.which in turn wioll lead to some performance.
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