Coolant not going down in overflow
08-08-2012, 09:36 PM
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Coolant not going down in overflow
Ok guys I am stumped at this. So i changed my thermostat and flushed my system. I did this by disconnecting the lower hose and let the fluid out. Then reattached the hose and filled it with water. Then disconnected the top hose and ran the engine with a garden hose in the overflow. Ran the engine til the water was clear and then shut off the garden hose and let the engine run out of water. Then shut off the engine. When to fill up the overflow and it only took 1 gallon of 100% dexcool and 1/2 gallon of drinkable water. Turned on the engine and let it warm up with the heater on full blast. Engine gets to 206 and the overflow did not go down in level. let the engine sit for a while and took the cap off and ran the engine with the heater on full blast until the engine got back to 206 then put the cap back on and drove for awhile. The engine is now cooling down and the fluid level still has not gone down. The thermostat is a 180. Any suggestions on how to burp the system, i am sure i have air in the system. Yes the heat was hot and working as well the A/C.
08-08-2012, 09:47 PM
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Right now it is parked on a hill, and if the temp keeps going to 206 and the thermostat is a 180 why is it getting that hot? As well i am sure the truck was empty off all fluid and it only took half of the required fluid which in my manual says 15 qts.
08-08-2012, 09:53 PM
#4
Notice the engine sits angled upward, so even when you disconnect the hose there is actually quite a bit of fluid still in the block. I typically use 1-2 gallons whenever I have to do something with a tstat, so I think you are fine.
It still gets that hot because that may be the limit of your cooling system....are you going by the dash gauge or some sort of scanning software? The dash gauge will tell you the same thing anywhere from 185 to 215.
It still gets that hot because that may be the limit of your cooling system....are you going by the dash gauge or some sort of scanning software? The dash gauge will tell you the same thing anywhere from 185 to 215.
08-08-2012, 10:01 PM
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Notice the engine sits angled upward, so even when you disconnect the hose there is actually quite a bit of fluid still in the block. I typically use 1-2 gallons whenever I have to do something with a tstat, so I think you are fine.
It still gets that hot because that may be the limit of your cooling system....are you going by the dash gauge or some sort of scanning software? The dash gauge will tell you the same thing anywhere from 185 to 215.
It still gets that hot because that may be the limit of your cooling system....are you going by the dash gauge or some sort of scanning software? The dash gauge will tell you the same thing anywhere from 185 to 215.
08-08-2012, 10:09 PM
#6
No...and let me just say how bad of an idea that is....you have an engine running with no coolant passing through it...
A pump is good at pushing, not so much at pulling, especially air when its designed for water. So as soon as the level drops below the level of the pump, it stops pushing out water even though there is some in the block.
Secondly, youll notice at each corner of the cylinder heads there are small steam vents...this is for drawing air out of the cylinder heads.
Thirdly, what is the temperature when driving? It should be able 10 degrees lower than before. You may not see this at idle because the factory fan cant move as much air as when you are driving at speed.
A pump is good at pushing, not so much at pulling, especially air when its designed for water. So as soon as the level drops below the level of the pump, it stops pushing out water even though there is some in the block.
Secondly, youll notice at each corner of the cylinder heads there are small steam vents...this is for drawing air out of the cylinder heads.
Thirdly, what is the temperature when driving? It should be able 10 degrees lower than before. You may not see this at idle because the factory fan cant move as much air as when you are driving at speed.
08-08-2012, 10:13 PM
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I agree with you on how stupid of a idea it was, but at the time i had my step dad with me and he said do it that way hes a back woods kind of guy. This is why i am thinking i have air in the system. I thought when you replace a thermostat and refill the system its not supposed to go over 180.
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08-08-2012, 10:49 PM
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No...and let me just say how bad of an idea that is....you have an engine running with no coolant passing through it...
A pump is good at pushing, not so much at pulling, especially air when its designed for water. So as soon as the level drops below the level of the pump, it stops pushing out water even though there is some in the block.
Secondly, youll notice at each corner of the cylinder heads there are small steam vents...this is for drawing air out of the cylinder heads.
Thirdly, what is the temperature when driving? It should be able 10 degrees lower than before. You may not see this at idle because the factory fan cant move as much air as when you are driving at speed.
A pump is good at pushing, not so much at pulling, especially air when its designed for water. So as soon as the level drops below the level of the pump, it stops pushing out water even though there is some in the block.
Secondly, youll notice at each corner of the cylinder heads there are small steam vents...this is for drawing air out of the cylinder heads.
Thirdly, what is the temperature when driving? It should be able 10 degrees lower than before. You may not see this at idle because the factory fan cant move as much air as when you are driving at speed.
08-08-2012, 11:23 PM
#9
I don't understand what the problem is. Just because your tstat is 180 doesn't mean the coolant temp shouldnt be higher than that. The tstat temp is just the temp it will open and allow coolant to circulate through the system. Your coolant temps are perfect. If it were low on coolant, it would overheat pretty quickly.
08-09-2012, 12:32 AM
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You can also give the top radiator hose some squeezes to help burp it, but oakley is right, the temp rating on a thermostat is the temp that it fully opens... So generally 15 to 25 degrees hotter is what you would expect.... Closer the the 25 im most cases.... Pulling the rad hoses doesnt empty the block
Generally after i replace a thermostat i fill it, crank it, let it reach operating temps, fill it more... Squeeze the hoses, drive it around for a few minutes and top it off and repeat...
Btw... Tap water kills cooling systems... I recommend 50/50 from the jug or distilled water..
Generally after i replace a thermostat i fill it, crank it, let it reach operating temps, fill it more... Squeeze the hoses, drive it around for a few minutes and top it off and repeat...
Btw... Tap water kills cooling systems... I recommend 50/50 from the jug or distilled water..