cooler stat. 160*vs.180*
11-25-2006, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by OnyxSilveradoSS
it is three bolts, and if you know what you are doing you can change it in ten min. Keeping the temps down, will help these engines as they get hot the heads just help soak heat and kill small bits of performance. and my avg MPG was 12 last night 
dang this SSS and making me drive so fast 
dang this SSS and making me drive so fast That my friend is not worth it.
My engine never ran hot from the beginning with the stock stat. The 160* was only put in for my S/C upgrade.
What's there not to get?
Jim
11-26-2006, 03:59 PM
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I actually just posted a thread on this, but since i saw this one, might as well ask. I bought a 180 thermo already for my '04, do i need the housing too, or is it just a straight swap, i have heard both stories on the subject. I haven't attempted it yet because i don't want to think it's just a straight swap, and pull the housing off, and then it doesn't fit and don't have a truck for the next day because i didn't order the housing.
11-26-2006, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
Yeah I changed mine. There was no increase in anything. Cooant temps lower and mpg's lower.
That my friend is not worth it.
My engine never ran hot from the beginning with the stock stat. The 160* was only put in for my S/C upgrade.
What's there not to get?
Jim
That my friend is not worth it.
My engine never ran hot from the beginning with the stock stat. The 160* was only put in for my S/C upgrade.
What's there not to get?
Jim
11-26-2006, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jakebdb56
if my motor runs cooler, that means I can run more timing since I will get less detonation at cooler ECT's. thus, making more HP. it's as easy as 1+1=2. I do my own tuning, and will do a before/after test showing ECTvsIAT and ECTvsMaximum allowed timing. another plus is it will reduce my IAT's even more by making the engine bay a little cooler. make sense now?
That little bit in timming increase will not be felt. At least not at a safe level.
Do what you want, it's your truck, not mine.
Jim
11-26-2006, 09:05 PM
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Mine did as chevy was describing. But its not just at idle. I would have to let it sit at idle with air full blast for over 5-10 min and the temps would start to rise, this is with a 160 degree. I flushed my radiator/motor and put some stuff from Oreilys in that is suppose to cool temps. By flushing I mean I pumped like 15 gallons of water through radiator and tryed the best I could throught the mtoor. But after toping it back off with water and the cooling stuff it has never risen over the 185 mark.
11-26-2006, 09:06 PM
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sitting at idle with the correct fan settings I shouldn't get over 180. the temps wont go higher than stock. and the timing increase will be noticeable at a safe level. apparently you've never tuned/done this yourself? Im very confident in my knowledge of tuning and how it is to be done properly and successfully. hptuners logs prove a lot 
11-26-2006, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by jakebdb56
sitting at idle with the correct fan settings I shouldn't get over 180. the temps wont go higher than stock. and the timing increase will be noticeable at a safe level. apparently you've never tuned/done this yourself? Im very confident in my knowledge of tuning and how it is to be done properly and successfully. hptuners logs prove a lot
My truck doesn't even have that many miles on it.
Either way, a stock engine will be fine with a 180* or stock t-stat. I bet you a 1/4 mile run with the 160* or stock stat will be the same with the same tune. Even with a degree or two more of timing with the 160* stat.
You did ask in your first post which stat right? I said the 180*.
If you are so confident on your tuning abilities by using a 160* stat, then I just don't understand why you even asked which one to use........
Jim
11-27-2006, 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
This is with the stock tune. Even with the Nelson tune, it did the same thing. I guess he's not a knowledgeable tuner...........
My truck doesn't even have that many miles on it.
Either way, a stock engine will be fine with a 180* or stock t-stat. I bet you a 1/4 mile run with the 160* or stock stat will be the same with the same tune. Even with a degree or two more of timing with the 160* stat.
You did ask in your first post which stat right? I said the 180*.
If you are so confident on your tuning abilities by using a 160* stat, then I just don't understand why you even asked which one to use........
Jim
My truck doesn't even have that many miles on it.
Either way, a stock engine will be fine with a 180* or stock t-stat. I bet you a 1/4 mile run with the 160* or stock stat will be the same with the same tune. Even with a degree or two more of timing with the 160* stat.
You did ask in your first post which stat right? I said the 180*.
If you are so confident on your tuning abilities by using a 160* stat, then I just don't understand why you even asked which one to use........
Jim
nelson is a very knowledgeable tuner, i've received much advice from him through ls1truck. it's plain and simple that with a 160* stat will provide for cooler ECT's than a 180* stat. thus providing more room for timing and more power whether it be 2hp or 10hp, I will not know until I do the work myself and find out how a genIII motor will react.
Originally Posted by jakebdb56
Im lookin at getting a cooler stat for my truck (2006 lm7). has anyone that lives in a hotter climate like me had problems with using the cooler 160 vs the 180 they offer? also, does the stat replace the waterneck too? i've heard multiple answers and haven't really found anyone that has an 05 or newer lm7 that has done a 160 stat.
lemme know your pros/cons on switching stats. i wanna do it for sure since 200* is a little higher than I wanna run.
lemme know your pros/cons on switching stats. i wanna do it for sure since 200* is a little higher than I wanna run.
simply I was asking for advice/experience from members. and I do thank you for your advice. I ordered a 160 and a 180 stat so I can do a tech writeup of some kinda and to give this argument a final judgement
it'll be a week probably before I get results. but, I will be running the truck on the dyno if I can get time over at Gforce to test results between a few different tunes and also the 160*vs180
sound good Jim?
11-27-2006, 09:20 AM
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When you guys buy your 160* or 180* stat, place them in boiling water with a candy thermomiter and see when they actually open up. I bet it is 10 to 15* warmer. I bought a 170* and it opens at 179*
Just a thought.
Mark
Just a thought.
Mark
11-27-2006, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by CHEVY6000VHO
This is with the stock tune. Even with the Nelson tune, it did the same thing. I guess he's not a knowledgeable tuner...........
My truck doesn't even have that many miles on it.
Either way, a stock engine will be fine with a 180* or stock t-stat. I bet you a 1/4 mile run with the 160* or stock stat will be the same with the same tune. Even with a degree or two more of timing with the 160* stat.
You did ask in your first post which stat right? I said the 180*.
If you are so confident on your tuning abilities by using a 160* stat, then I just don't understand why you even asked which one to use........
Jim
My truck doesn't even have that many miles on it.
Either way, a stock engine will be fine with a 180* or stock t-stat. I bet you a 1/4 mile run with the 160* or stock stat will be the same with the same tune. Even with a degree or two more of timing with the 160* stat.
You did ask in your first post which stat right? I said the 180*.
If you are so confident on your tuning abilities by using a 160* stat, then I just don't understand why you even asked which one to use........
Jim
Hey cheyvy I have time slips to back up that NO CHANGES but adding 1-2 degree of timing will help track times. I made 3 consistenet 12.0-12.1 runs in a row (1000ft). Me and my tuner (on the spot sitting in staging lines) bumped the timing up 1 degree. Here was 11..90 1 more degree 11.91 with worse 60 ft.