cooler stat. 160*vs.180*
#31
Originally Posted by 2004Denali
When you guys buy your 160* or 180* stat, place them in boiling water with a candy thermomiter and see when they actually open up. I bet it is 10 to 15* warmer. I bought a 170* and it opens at 179*
Just a thought.
Mark
Just a thought.
Mark
also,
Originally Posted by onebadrubi
Hey cheyvy I have time slips to back up that NO CHANGES but adding 1-2 degree of timing will help track times. I made 3 consistenet 12.0-12.1 runs in a row (1000ft). Me and my tuner (on the spot sitting in staging lines) bumped the timing up 1 degree. Here was 11..90 1 more degree 11.91 with worse 60 ft.
tuning my genI sbc350 2-3 degrees can make a world of difference.
anyways, the parts are on their way. can't wait to finish the experiment.
#34
I had a Grand Prix GTP. (supercharged for those who dont know) Anyways, what we found was a 160 was too cold for winter, and a 180 wasnt much difference than stock. The 160 would actually set a SES light in the winter for the motor not getting up to correct operating temp. What we did was installed a 160 and drilled 3 holes in the thermostat.
Dont know if anyone here has tried this or if it would be of any benefit, but it maybe a solution for those want something in between.
Dont know if anyone here has tried this or if it would be of any benefit, but it maybe a solution for those want something in between.
#35
drilling holes in the thermo wont help it get any warmer lol. you're just allowing more water to flow vs. the closed position therefore making the closed position take longer to warm the coolant.
#36
On the 06's you do not have to do the housing also,just the thermostat.I put the 160 in and I like it fine.No MPG loss,and on HPTuners is runs at 176 degrees and in the heat is gets to about 180 or so.
#37
Originally Posted by jakebdb56
drilling holes in the thermo wont help it get any warmer lol. you're just allowing more water to flow vs. the closed position therefore making the closed position take longer to warm the coolant.
Why Drill Holes in Your Thermostat?
I guess the obvious reason is to keep your car cooler therefore controlling KR. However the holes only reduce overall engine temps by about 5 degrees so we have a much more important reason for this.
While at the track you open the hood, maybe ice the charger and let the motor cool down between runs. This may bring your coolant temps down to very low levels, which is good however these cool temps may actually slow you down. With the coolant and engine cooled down there is no coolant circulating until the engine temps reach the temp of the Thermostat.
This would normally be OK however when you're racing the combustion chambers heat up very quickly. So the coolant around the cylinders and heads might reach 250 degrees before the stat even begins to open. This is very bad and can cause high levels of KR in the back half of the ¼ mile. By drilling the holes in the thermostat you can eliminate this problem because you will always have a small amount of coolant flowing.
"Performance blasting down the ¼ mile isn’t the only advantage of having holes drilled in your thermostat. If you live in a colder climate this $11 investment might just save your cylinder heads from being cracked and damaged from the sudden dive in coolant temperature as your winter chilled radiator dumps it’s freezing coolant through your heads.
A drilled stat would be much more forgiving by providing a continuous flow of coolant and reducing sudden and drastic temperature changes."
#38
I understand your theories and yes they do work. I wasn't tryin to disprove you or anything. I'm just saying that really the 160* stat's gonna help me out a bit at the track considering we do have quite the warm climate. The other night at the track it was like 50'ish and my truck still had the stat open since I dont really shutoff my truck while waiting to run. unless it gets real warm. I just keep the fans on high through hptuners vcm controls and let the stat stay open.
I wont be drilling holes in my stat since I wont have to put up with realllly cold temps like some of yall have to.
looks like the parts will be here monday'ish and I'll start doing the tests. I really want to get some dyno time but its a waste since I havent tuned my truck yet with the wideband. I might just order the hptuners upgrade tonight.
jake
I wont be drilling holes in my stat since I wont have to put up with realllly cold temps like some of yall have to.
looks like the parts will be here monday'ish and I'll start doing the tests. I really want to get some dyno time but its a waste since I havent tuned my truck yet with the wideband. I might just order the hptuners upgrade tonight.
jake
#39
I understand Jake, I was just throwing that out as a possible help to someone. I just havent seen anyone mention the drilling of the stat and thought it may help. I ve been on the net for a long time so I m kinda thick skinned and dont get offended easy.
#40
its cool man. i appreciate any comments/suggestions on this thread.
i cant wait to actually get some hard data for this experiment. now its kinda cool outside so that'll be nice for the next few weeks for swapping some parts. started up the dune buggy today. man does the cold air make a difference. I also can't wait until I finish the lsx350 for the buggy. thunder's sending me the rest of the sensors I need soon. I still need an intake manifold, fuel pump, fpr, and some an fittings. then we're on the road for a ls-based EFI sbc350. im rambling now. so i'll just go order my parts.
i cant wait to actually get some hard data for this experiment. now its kinda cool outside so that'll be nice for the next few weeks for swapping some parts. started up the dune buggy today. man does the cold air make a difference. I also can't wait until I finish the lsx350 for the buggy. thunder's sending me the rest of the sensors I need soon. I still need an intake manifold, fuel pump, fpr, and some an fittings. then we're on the road for a ls-based EFI sbc350. im rambling now. so i'll just go order my parts.