crank pulley removal problems
07-31-2007, 07:15 AM
#22
Originally Posted by KySilverado
Correct torque sequence as far as I know it.
Get balancer back on.
With OLD bolt torque to 240 lb/ft - This assures balancer is fully seated.
Remove old bolt - Install new bolt and torque to 37 lb/ft
Then torque 140 more degrees of rotation
Get balancer back on.
With OLD bolt torque to 240 lb/ft - This assures balancer is fully seated.
Remove old bolt - Install new bolt and torque to 37 lb/ft
Then torque 140 more degrees of rotation
Agree. For reference, after you have the new bolt to 37lb/ft, 90* on the new bolt was 200 lb/ft. You need to go another 50* past that. Eat your Wheaties for breakfast.
07-31-2007, 08:11 AM
#23
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this bolt is torque to yield, and factory coated with red locktite...I wedged a flat bar in the trans behind the torqueconverter, and used a long helper to add the leverage, air is nice but once you break a bolt off in the crank you will rethink using air too much. If you thought getting it off was hard, wait till you put it back in...you have a new bolt right?? a longer one??
I ended up putting the larger puller jaws on the medium puller base so that the puller was tight on the pulley and it finally came off, the first few mm are the tuffest...good luck, this is the tuffest part of a cam swap.
I ended up putting the larger puller jaws on the medium puller base so that the puller was tight on the pulley and it finally came off, the first few mm are the tuffest...good luck, this is the tuffest part of a cam swap.
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